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Rolex

Hoof Hearted
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I won't be doing any mechanical upgrades on the Savage X till it's well into a gallon of fuel, but I want to get some parts together.
I already have the reverse module (not installed) and I want to know if it will still be good to go if I get the 3 speed trans.
Also, what performance pipe would you recommend for the 4.6 big block?
 
I have the three speed in mine and the Reverse as well. Works good together. I use a THS pipe and header on mine. Big improvement from stock. I noticed it revs higher and quicker with it. One suggestion I have is the X style upper bumper mounts suck...either go with the .21 type since they have screws securing them to the bulkhead or zip tie the X upper mounts in to the bulk head. After some bashing they want to twist outward a bit and make them more prone to bending. You can also take a small screw and put in through where the upper arms get cliped into the shock towers to keep them from rotating as well. I upgrade the engine to a LRP Z.28. With a 19/47 combo and heavy beadlock rims and 40 series Big Joes it will still pull the wheels up anytime I want it too. Are you going to go with the mix module for your reverse or do the three channel radio? I personally don't like the mixer myself but....that's just me. I would highly suggest lowering it a bit to make the center of balance better....spend more time on the wheels than the lid. But my driving sucks which accounts for some of that flippage too....lol
 
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I'll second what frickenjoey said; The three speed fits in the case with the reverse module. You may have to do some shaving of the rubber adjustment hole plug, but it does fit.

However, and this is the important thing to know; If you're going to install one, you might as well install both, as they both require a complete tear-down of the trans case. The three speed uses a different final gear, and the reverse module replaces the shaft that the final gear rides on (the one that the outdrive cups attach to).

Also, if you don't already have one, you'll need another servo for the reverse module. A standard servo, such as the airtronics 94102 works perfectly, as speed and torque are not dead-on requirements here. The throttle servo from the savage actually works pretty good. Did I mention I have a servo for sale yet? (shameless plaidfish-style plug)

I would also recommend getting a three channel radio over the mixer. The mixer throws the truck into reverse after so-long of holding brakes. And if you don't come to a complete stop and keep the truck still during direction changes, you run the risk of breaking the sub-gear train. And yes, the module is all gears, no clutches, like Traxxas's setups.

If you don't already have it, the X center transmission case is your friend. To adjust the 1-2 shift point, you have to partially disassemble the multi-speed assembly. Since yours is the X, obviously you have it (this info inserted for the people that search for info, just in case).

Lastly, when it comes time to tear the truck down, there are some tricks to get the transmission out easier than the papers show. Simply remove the tank, pipe, roll cage, tires on the pipe side, the pipe-side upper shock ends on the inner two shocks, and the tvp on the pipe side. Then a few screws on the tank side and the two that mate the trans case to the engine plate, the brake linkage, and then give it a tug. The trans case will be a bit of a wrestling match to remove, but it will come out. Reverse process to re-install.

It's easier than it sounds, really.
 
+1 on the steering bearings. Also, if you're going to be lazy (like I am), and use a cordless drill with a phillips bit in it, set the clutch to the lowest setting possible. It will prevent the plastic from stripping.
 
Hey I am a professional!.....I use proper tools for the job!...Not sure what I am a professional at just yet....but mind you I will.....well ...maybe I will find something I am good at eventually. All the screws I have just laying around were no where near being self tapping so I HAD to drill...lol.
 
Excellent info from both of you. I sure appreciate the input. I plan to do the trans and reverse module at the same time. I'll also be adding the aluminum shock towers, bulk heads and A arms shortly.
I have it set up with the 3 channel M-11 radio. I would never have thought of doing the shift with the mixer.
And yes, I'm lazy enough to use the cordless, but I don't crack out my big Makita. I have a small flashlight sized screw gun with the hex chuck for screwdriver tips. Not enough torque to do damage. I just snug them, and then seat them by hand so I know exactly how tight they are.
Lowering it won't be necessary. If you caught my Savvy pics thread, you'll see that it's as wide as it is long. 18 1/2 inches wide with the Imex deep dish rims and Imex rock crawler tires. All the alloy shocks are now on, so I'll have to update my pic thread.
Thanks for your info. I'll be ordering the parts, and if I run into any problems during the install, be on standby.
 
Sounds like you're going to have a full weekend ahead of you. It took me roughly about 2 hours to do the reverse module and three speed. That included tear-down, assembly, and re-assembly.
 
The shock towers and A arms are on a slow boat from China, so I get the weekend off.
Joe-WEE, the pics are super. Thanks for that. I have noticed that the back bumper has a lot of play there, but didn't get into it since I've ordered the aluminum.
I won't be doing aluminum bumpers because SOMETHING has to give.
Servos I have plenty of. They're in damaged airplanes.
I came across a linkage set for reverse in a Savage parts page. Is this something I should get? Nothing came with the reverse module.
 
You should have gotten a couple peices of pre-bent piano wire, some collars, a little tiny bit of fuel tubing, and a pack of servo horns with the reverse module. You will need those, or else that reverse module is going to be about as helpful as a legless mule.
 
Nope, no linkages or parts. Just the module in the box. I'm about to order a few parts from the site I saw it on, so I'll add it. I think it was only 3-something.
(Joe-WEE....Thanks for removing the truck for clarity. :LoL:)
 
Those parts shoulda came with the module. But at least they're cheap.

As for the plane servos, you may not be able to get them to work, due to spline count and output shaft size.
 
In my Savage .25 I have a 1986 futaba servo running reverse. It was from an original AE R/C 10. But if it works? Hell, use it right......? It was a temp solution that I knew wouldn't last....now two years later...hey It's staying in there. Most servo manufacturers from what I have seen the shaft is the same regardless of car or plane servo. A futaba is still a futaba...as long as the size is the same it should work.
 
It should work, providing the mounting points are the same, as well as the spline count. I had some old tan-colored futaba servos some years ago that had a square output shaft. They also used the older G connectors.

There's certainly no harm in trying, since the reverse module doesn't need much torque (needs enough to push/pull a tab) or speed to actuate.
 
All my large planes either have JR or Futaba standard servos. I have quite a collection of every type of servo arm or horn imaginable, so I shouldn't have a problem setting it up.
As HeartBreak says, it's just a push/pull setup, so it doesn't require much torque, but these servos will have more than I'll need.
I got the reverse module a couple of months ago, and since I wasn't ready to install it yet, I never thought to check for the linkages. I ordered it direct from HPI's site.
 
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