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Need T-Maxx help please
- Thread starter battledonkey
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- Thread starter
- #102
Yes sir. I figured that out as soon as I looked at it more closely. I over engineer stuff in my head all the time and worry I'm gonna screw something up.
I just wanna figure out why I can't run the 3.3 at full throttle now.
---------- Post added at 9:56 PM ---------- Previous post was at 9:56 PM ----------
Don't recall seeing instructions but I'll check again for certain. Thank you!
I just wanna figure out why I can't run the 3.3 at full throttle now.
---------- Post added at 9:56 PM ---------- Previous post was at 9:56 PM ----------
Don't recall seeing instructions but I'll check again for certain. Thank you!
- Thread starter
- #104
I'm honestly not sure if it's a bog or the too lean "cutting out." I may try to post a video today.
---------- Post added at 9:59 PM ---------- Previous post was at 9:57 PM ----------
If it does it and I back the throttle bake to the "safe zone" it goes right back to ripping along.
---------- Post added at 9:59 PM ---------- Previous post was at 9:57 PM ----------
If it does it and I back the throttle bake to the "safe zone" it goes right back to ripping along.
- Thread starter
- #106
I richened up like crazy the first time. Like almost 2 turns in 1/16 to 1/8 increments and it never quit. I'm confused, I promise that.
- Thread starter
- #108
It's like 3/4 ish and ya pretty much.
hotrodrob
not hotdogbob
Chances are theres an air leak, and or that engine could be tired, the problem with buying used is ya never know what the other guy or more have done to it, fortunetly traxxas engines are cheap,
- Thread starter
- #110
It has good compression for what it's worth.
- Thread starter
- #112
I got a new 2.5 sitting right next to it?
- Thread starter
- #114
Will do, thanks. Is there a standard procedure for doing so?
- Thread starter
- #115
Found these instructions on another forum (not sure I'm allowed to post about other forums here):
Lean out your LSN (the engine will start to rev up high RPM's) now, turn your idle down.
Lean out your LSN till you can have a nice, easy low idle, your idle gap should only be about .5-.6mm. That's a .5 to .6mm idle gap. You will know if you leaned it out too much because now you will have a lean bog (out of the hole) with little to no smoke. If thats the case you simply turn the LSN back out 1 hour on a clock. Doing this it will make the idle even LOWER now. To fix this you simply turn your idle back up.
Once you get your idle down and a nice out of the hole launch (only holding it open for about 4 seconds), now it's time to tune the HSN.
If you can hold it wide open and it revs up now and shifts right (which I doubt because it's lean up top) with a nice smoke trail then leave it alone. If you have a nice launch and it revs up and starts to lean bog with high RPM's like you have now, you want to richen up the top (HSN) 1 hour at a time until that goes away. Now it's tuned...
Saved my dang life. Made an instant difference. I'm not really sure how going back to factory put it so far from tuned but it worked. If anyone sees any errors in it or major no-no's then lets hear it but it worked for me. Feels good to feel a little more confident. Thanks a ton to all the contributors here too!
Lean out your LSN (the engine will start to rev up high RPM's) now, turn your idle down.
Lean out your LSN till you can have a nice, easy low idle, your idle gap should only be about .5-.6mm. That's a .5 to .6mm idle gap. You will know if you leaned it out too much because now you will have a lean bog (out of the hole) with little to no smoke. If thats the case you simply turn the LSN back out 1 hour on a clock. Doing this it will make the idle even LOWER now. To fix this you simply turn your idle back up.
Once you get your idle down and a nice out of the hole launch (only holding it open for about 4 seconds), now it's time to tune the HSN.
If you can hold it wide open and it revs up now and shifts right (which I doubt because it's lean up top) with a nice smoke trail then leave it alone. If you have a nice launch and it revs up and starts to lean bog with high RPM's like you have now, you want to richen up the top (HSN) 1 hour at a time until that goes away. Now it's tuned...
Saved my dang life. Made an instant difference. I'm not really sure how going back to factory put it so far from tuned but it worked. If anyone sees any errors in it or major no-no's then lets hear it but it worked for me. Feels good to feel a little more confident. Thanks a ton to all the contributors here too!
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That's the way I've always done it. LSN first, get the idle and the launch, then move up to WOT settings on the HSN.
Just make sure everything is at running temp before adjusting, and give it a few short runs between any extra adjustments.
Once you have it right, you'll only need slight changes on the HSN to compensate for temperature and humidity. However, they really don't like to run in the cold.
Just make sure everything is at running temp before adjusting, and give it a few short runs between any extra adjustments.
Once you have it right, you'll only need slight changes on the HSN to compensate for temperature and humidity. However, they really don't like to run in the cold.
- Thread starter
- #117
It worked for me!
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I've had guys tell me I'm TOTALLY wrong, but that doesn't explain why total strangers would show up at the track where I ran, ask for me by name, and have me tune their engines. LOTS of Traxxas engines back then.
Here's my exact post on that subject, and I still back it up.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Setting your carb:
These directions are ONLY for an engine that has been fully broken in:
Start with the needles at factory recommended settings and make sure all your batteries are fully charged; The starter battery, if you use one, the glow ignitor and the on-board receiver battery. Make absolutely sure you have a good glow plug with a bright glow, or install a new one.
Be very precise about closing both the LSN (Low Speed Needle) and the HSN (High Speed Needle) and carefully counting the turns to factory recommended openings.
Turn the Transmitter on, then the Receiver. (Tx and Rx)
Turn the throttle trim knob on the Tx all the way down and hold the trigger to full brake when adjusting the idle screw. That way, there's no way the carb can close completely and stall the car when you hit the brakes.
Remove the air filter and look into the throat of the carburetor. You should have about a 1 to 2mm opening that looks like this:
Start the engine. If it won't start without a little throttle trim applied, that's okay for now, since it's probably a little on the rich side. Let it idle, giving it little blips on the trigger to clear out the oil till it warms up. When it's close to running temp, check the takeoff response by first using normal throttle, stopping it, and using quicker throttle as the engine starts to clear out. If you get a sluggish start, you'll need to start leaning the LSN by no more than 1/16 turn at a time, and test it several times before you lean it any more.
It should start to take off with a more instant response as you get the LSN to the proper setting. You will most likely have to compensate for the leaner LSN setting by lowering your idle adjustment.
When your idle is good, and you're getting good response off the line, your LSN is set. Just make sure you monitor your temps closely, since a too lean LSN will will raise your temp to dangerous levels.
Start running the car at higher speeds, and adjust you HSN for wide open throttle. (WOT) You will need to make slight adjustments to the HSN regularly, for changes in the ambient temperature and humidity.
Here's my exact post on that subject, and I still back it up.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Setting your carb:
These directions are ONLY for an engine that has been fully broken in:
Start with the needles at factory recommended settings and make sure all your batteries are fully charged; The starter battery, if you use one, the glow ignitor and the on-board receiver battery. Make absolutely sure you have a good glow plug with a bright glow, or install a new one.
Be very precise about closing both the LSN (Low Speed Needle) and the HSN (High Speed Needle) and carefully counting the turns to factory recommended openings.
Turn the Transmitter on, then the Receiver. (Tx and Rx)
Turn the throttle trim knob on the Tx all the way down and hold the trigger to full brake when adjusting the idle screw. That way, there's no way the carb can close completely and stall the car when you hit the brakes.
Remove the air filter and look into the throat of the carburetor. You should have about a 1 to 2mm opening that looks like this:
Start the engine. If it won't start without a little throttle trim applied, that's okay for now, since it's probably a little on the rich side. Let it idle, giving it little blips on the trigger to clear out the oil till it warms up. When it's close to running temp, check the takeoff response by first using normal throttle, stopping it, and using quicker throttle as the engine starts to clear out. If you get a sluggish start, you'll need to start leaning the LSN by no more than 1/16 turn at a time, and test it several times before you lean it any more.
It should start to take off with a more instant response as you get the LSN to the proper setting. You will most likely have to compensate for the leaner LSN setting by lowering your idle adjustment.
When your idle is good, and you're getting good response off the line, your LSN is set. Just make sure you monitor your temps closely, since a too lean LSN will will raise your temp to dangerous levels.
Start running the car at higher speeds, and adjust you HSN for wide open throttle. (WOT) You will need to make slight adjustments to the HSN regularly, for changes in the ambient temperature and humidity.
- Thread starter
- #119
Thats the Nitro Bible to a n00b like me. Ha. I now subscribe to your thinking, sir.
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Here's the link to that whole thread. It's a sticky at the top of the Nitro forum.
https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=60832
https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=60832