Need T-Maxx help please

[battledonkey]

It was 64 when I was doing this. I was using 4 turns out because thats what the manual said.

 

[Snook Man]

Since you don’t have a temp gun, use the old reliable spit test. A drop of spit on the cooling head, if it sizzles off immediately its too hot, if the spit just sits there looking at you without sizzling its too cool. It should sit for a second or two and then start to sizzle.

4 turns out is correct with the HSN, Flush with the slide valve for the LSN for factory settings.

Set the idle gap to 1mm ( I prefer a little less) make sure it doesn’t close any further when you apply the brake and forget about the idle gap until you get it tuned well. Afterwards you can adjust the idle up/down to fine tune it.

 

[hulkmaxx]

And I would most definitely get a good quality temp gun of some sort. When you first start learning to tune it can be a major PITA! Once you get it down you can almost tune by the sound of the engine. Don't forget to check your glow plug from time to time also it can tell you if your lean or rich even if your running a good temp.

 

[hotrodrob]

I Agree with all the above mentioned advice to the t!.....

 

[battledonkey]

I spit test it earlier. Sizzled off immediately. I'll reset to factory and try again. Was planning on making a trip to the LHS tomorrow for some more 3.3 parts and there's a Harbor Freight next to it. I'll see about a temp gun there. Thanks again!

 

[hulkmaxx]

My nephew uses one of those red dot laser temp guns he purchased from Harbor freight and he has had good luck with it. I have noticed that his reads a cooler temp than my Duratrax flashpoint unit I have used for about 12 years, been the best one I have ever owned.

 

[battledonkey]

I reset and re-tuned as instructed and it's WAY better. Thanks again! I also bought a little temp gun. What's an appropriate running temp? I've got it sitting around 190 and bouncing to around 200 now.

---------- Post added at 11:04 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:01 PM ----------

Also, the little black head protector/ez start wire holder always falls off. I've been fortunate so far and found it every time but it's nowhere to be found after today. Is there a safe way to adhere it to the head without hurting anything?

 

[hotrodrob]

Ditch the cheezy start and install a pull start, temps for cold weather should be more in the 230 range,

 

[battledonkey]

Ditch the cheezy start and install a pull start, temps for cold weather should be more in the 230 range,

ok, another n00b question: continue to lean to gain temperate? Should I lean one needle before the other?

 

[hotrodrob]

Always tune the main needle first and only tune when the engine is up to operating temps,....dont just tune to a temp instead let the engine tell you what to do, lean the top in tiny increments at a time, get her so she comes off the line good and excelerates through the rpm range good then leave it at that, check temps regularly, its tough to get a real good tune when its cold so good enough is good enough man, and its always better to be a little rich than lean, always keep the smoke trail

 

[battledonkey]

Another n00by question: The 3.3 I bought had a hump pack to power the receiver but no charger so I bought an Ofna pack with a charger so that my 3.3 and 2.5 would be the same and it would be convenient. The female side of the charger plugs into the battery outside of the truck but its too big for the port with the rubber cover on the box on the truck. So I don't have buy batteries all the time anymore but I still have to take the box off to charge it. Is there a specific adapter I need to buy?

Also, the pack that came with the 3.3 was a Traxxas brand and I think it just took a poop on me. Anybody know a cheap place to get a new pack? I Ebayed the other one so I guess I could just do the same again but it seemed worth asking.

Thanks!

 

[battledonkey]

Also why do the body options for one of the most popular nitro trucks ever suck so bad? lol

 

[hulkmaxx]

Also why do the body options for one of the most popular nitro trucks ever suck so bad? lol

There are a lot of options out there for bodies on the maxx rigs. proline makes some really nice bodies. A lot of the body selection has dried up over the past few years though I have noticed.

 

[battledonkey]

UPDATE TIME!

I got it all back together, although I botched some of it. I'll try to explain in a logical way. When I was putting the new A arms on in the rear I got lazy and ran the pins in from the back side and on the lower ones that put the threads mated up to the back of the aluminum rear bulk head. In yet another "I just wanna get this sucker together and drive it" lazy move, I figured the pin would just drive into the aluminum and kept going and snapped the head off. So the pin is about 95% in and sheared off.....that was pretty stupid huh?

Also, the front tires wobble. Not super bad but more than I expected and it has brand new axle carriers and A arms and all that. I have the carriers tightened about as much as I can and not interfere with steering. Gonna have to tinker to get that right I guess.

The spur gear it came with had a stripped patch on it so I went to the LHS today and got a new one and a new body and I replaced that tonight. I realized when I was taking it all apart that it was missing one of the "shoes" on the slipper clutch. Just out of sheer curiosity i reassembled it all and gave it a try. (I hadn't driven it once since I bought it. Can you really blame me?) It ran awesome, had great throttle response, and sounds great with the THS exhaust. BUT it barely moved and revved up real easy so I assume this has to do with the missing shoe.

Bestow some knowledge on me folks!

And just to make the reading worth it here's a few pics of it and my growing collection. Never buy a Redcat. That thing is not what I expected. It's a shelf queen now, and not even very good at that, lol. Do, however; buy a Losi Mini Desert Truck. Awesome fun.

 

[Nitrotrout]

UPDATE TIME!





The spur gear it came with had a stripped patch on it so I went to the LHS today and got a new one and a new body and I replaced that tonight. I realized when I was taking it all apart that it was missing one of the "shoes" on the slipper clutch. Just out of sheer curiosity i reassembled it all and gave it a try. (I hadn't driven it once since I bought it. Can you really blame me?) It ran awesome, had great throttle response, and sounds great with the THS exhaust. BUT it barely moved and revved up real easy so I assume this has to do with the missing shoe.

You could do away with the slipper clutch friction pads all together with the brake disk mod.
This replaces the friction pads:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Traxxas-T-M...7374501?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&ha sh=item35d0dc7125

You'll have to enlarge the brake disk holes slightly to fit the slipper clutch pins but it's a great mod, well worth it.

 

[battledonkey]

I'm starting to realize I may not get along with Nitro very well. I bought the heavy duty clutch rebuild kit and put it in exactly as instructed. I tinkered with with with the truck running to get it right. I had the needles and idle reset to factory and took it out. Right from the start it bogged like crazy on acceleration. So I followed the flow chart and began richening the HSN. A lot. No real improvement. From time to time it would accelerate reasonably well and a couple out of those times it grabbed 2nd gear and went screaming along pretty good for 100 feet or so before bogging. But about 1/2 of those times it hung on to 1st gear for a while and revved out pretty high an then grabbed 2nd pretty hard and went hauling ass down the road.

What could cause all the bogging? Could the slipper rebuild kit be the culprit if I put it in wrong? I need some help, folks. I'm both frustrated out of my mind and eager to learn more and solve this problem. Thanks in advance for any and all advice and info!

 

[hotrodrob]

First off factory specs are rich settings so nothing wrong there, after setting back to factory you then start tuning, starting with small increments at a time on the hsn leaning it untill there is no more gain in performance,

 

[battledonkey]

It's almost like full throttle is just too much. If I keep the throttle on the reciever no more than like 3/5 its responsive, accelerates great, and drives out smoothly. Maybe adjust the linkage?

 

[battledonkey]

Well, I have no idea what I'm doing wrong. After the initial testing I re-tuned and found that 3/5 throttle or less is fine. Wheelied and flipped pretty hard and I think knocked the motor off setting. Did all the tinkering with the motor and the linkage, then it tried to inch forward just while it was turning over to start. Tried adjusting the slipper clutch, got it running but then it wouldnt move too well. Tightened the slipper up a bit and it took off again. Got out to the street and made a few warmup passes. Once it was warm made a few high speed passes and then poop, ate a few teeth off the spur gear. Frustrated doesn't quite cover it at this point gentlemen. Lol.

 

[chickenman242]

did you break In the slipper??
those hd slippers require a break in procedure should of come with the instructions.