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Need T-Maxx help please

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Its not too much heavier, a simple change to 50wt like hulk said and a few spring spacers should do justice, are you doin big jumps, or running in a field, pavement to grass, or a little bit of everything
 
Mainly street bashing but some loose sand. Haven't jumped any of them yet but I'd like to have the option.
 
For mainly street bashing you should lower her down a bit and tighten up the shocks a bit, she will handle better and not flip so easy.....I'm selling a set of really good street basher wheels and tires, there are some pics here in the for sale section, also I have a set of slicks as well
 
Hotrods right if your a pavement pounder lower is better. A really nice set of street tires and wheels are the HPI Phatlines.
 
I guess I'm a pavement pounder lol. My yard is a lot of sand. South Texas doesn't much allow for green lawns. I've been doing more tuning and getting used to the truck on the street than anything. I ripped the yard up a time or two but to be honest I'm one of those OCD people that has to detail everything after I use it and is paranoid about breaking stuff so I've been trying to keep the little shits clean. Lol.
 
Wish there were sand where I live I would love to try out a set of paddle tires out other than in the snow. Yes it is almost impossible to keep a nitro rig clean. I used to strip my rig down after every 5 to six runs to clean and inspect everything to make sure it was all good. Now I just do a pre check before and after every run and go over the usual problem areas. When something break's or I upgrade I do a complete tear down clean and inspect everything.
 
Got the hump pack charger in today. Put a quick charge on it to test the 2.4ghz receiver. Steering works great but I get nothing out of the throttle servo. Any ideas on where to start?
 
Make sure the throttle servo is in the correct port on the rx, also you can plug it into the steering channel just to check it since we know that that channell works, if your still getting nothing check the connector itself one of the connectors could be damaged/corroded, if all is good there check the whole wire for damage, chances are at this point that the servo is shot
 
The throttle and trans servos were run directly to the OptiDrive. I unplugged them and put them straight to the TRA6519 receiver and everything works! Hope this is helpful to anyone looking to upgrade. I got the TRA6517 transmitter with the TRA6519 receiver off EBay as a take off from a brand new truck for about $50 shipped so it's a cheap upgrade.

Look at me, all contributing to the community and stuff. It only took 30 posts, lol.

---------- Post added at 9:57 PM ---------- Previous post was at 9:57 PM ----------
hulkmaxx said:
Hey donkey have you seen shrek around LOL!:hehe:
Click to expand...

Lol, nope.
 
That'll do donkey that'll do!

---------- Post added at 5:05 PM ---------- Previous post was at 4:59 PM ----------
hulkmaxx said:
Hey donkey have you seen shrek around LOL!:hehe:
Click to expand...

Have no fear hulk shrek is here
3a8ahu8e.jpg
 
battledonkey said:
The throttle and trans servos were run directly to the OptiDrive. I unplugged them and put them straight to the TRA6519 receiver and everything works!
Click to expand...

The older opti drive units do not work with the TQ or link receivers.
You would need the newer opti drive unit, but your better off without it anyway.
 
Dang. The n00b needs help again gents. I can't seem to tune my 2.5 to save my life. I've searched and searched and searched but it seems like everything only partially covers my issues. I broke it in 100% as instructed by Traxxas. It went perfect, but once I started to try to tune it all went down hill. It always seems like it's running hot (don't have a temp gun). And it always seems to idle way too high. I have to back the idle screw out so far that hitting the brakes almost kills it. Even though it always seems to run hot I always end up with a "pool" of dirt and fuel from the exhaust on the chassis. Running hot seems to suggest lean but all the fuel seems to suggest rich. And the LSN is like my kryptonite, lol. I feel like I have the HSN set right but if I touch the LSN its like I ruin everything. I've reset the HSN to all the way in and 4 turns out to start over a million times. I don't want to take it to a hobby shop because then I don't learn. They tune it and then I'm dependent on them.

As always, any and all wisdom or mockery is appreciated greatly.

---------- Post added at 12:23 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:21 AM ----------

Rebuilding the 3.3 has still been great fun though so I'm not completely discouraged yet. I just wanna be able to tune one of these little bastards before I get the 3.3 back on the road. lol.
 
Since you're inviting the mockery it takes all the fun out of it, so I won't do it.
It definitely sounds like LSN problems. The LSN is too lean. It also needs to be set in conjunction with the idle screw since richening it will lower the idle.
You need to do these adjustments a little at a time and blip the trigger to clear it between adjustments.
If the LSN is too lean, you WILL run hot and you can't bring it down with the HSN and still get it to run right.
Set the LSN screw even with the ring and start from there, leaning it a hair at a time and setting your idle with the brake applied. When you get a good takeoff and temp you can adjust the HSN for WOT.

Look through some of these for tips and info. https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=60832
 
Rolex said:
Since you're inviting the mockery it takes all the fun out of it, so I won't do it.
It definitely sounds like LSN problems. The LSN is too lean. It also needs to be set in conjunction with the idle screw since richening it will lower the idle.
You need to do these adjustments a little at a time and blip the trigger to clear it between adjustments.
If the LSN is too lean, you WILL run hot and you can't bring it down with the HSN and still get it to run right.
Set the LSN screw even with the ring and start from there, leaning it a hair at a time and setting your idle with the brake applied. When you get a good takeoff and temp you can adjust the HSN for WOT.

Look through some of these for tips and info. https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=60832
Click to expand...

Thanks for going easy on me and helping out. I'm not sure I follow "even with the ring" but if you're talking about leaning it from there then turning it counter clockwise must be moving towards even with the ring. Thanks again.

---------- Post added at 12:34 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:31 AM ----------

Also, should I reset the HSN to factory when I do this and start over completely or leave the HSN where it is and work backwards from the LSN?
 
How cold is it where your located? I've seen 3.3's that were too lean on the hsn @ 5 turns out when below 40 degrees F.
 

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