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Need T-Maxx help please

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battledonkey

battledonkey

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Location
Adkins, TX
RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
I just bought a T-Maxx from a guy at work. He told me it was a 2.5 and that a friend of his had given it to him to make up for a debt and he hadn't run it in a year or so. I bought it and took a closer look...it has a 3.3 on it. I have no idea how to tell if it was originally a 3.3 or if someone did a swap. That's my first question: How do I tell what the heck it originally was? I don't know diddly about these things besides they're fun so sorry about the n00b questions!

It has Integy and RDLogics stuff ALL over it, including Integy aluminum a-arms and all that. Now begins the rest of my questions:

When you pick up the rear end and relieve the load on the rear suspension the rear wheels toe in horrendously. The turn buckles are pulled in 100%. Is this an issue and if so where can I get new properly sized rear turn buckles? The wheel hubs seemed loose so I pulled the wheels and some little dust covers and tightened the hubs. The rear end seems a little straighter. Hopefully this was the right thing to do? The fronts were wobbly too but I can't draw the hub in too tight or the truck wont't turn.

All of the boots where the a-arms meet the hub are torn. How bad is this? Does it need to be fixed immediately and if so where can I get the boots? Will I need any specialty tools or other items?

The body of this thing is all banged up so I'll be buying a new one but it has odd mount posts on it. Also, several tiny screws are missing in different places. Where can I buy this stuff?

Also, all the aluminum seems to really weigh down the stock looking shocks. What are some decent, budget but tougher replacement shocks?


Thanks in advance for everyone's help!

Doyle
 
First off if it had a grey tranny then it is a 3.3, most likley. Second if the turnbuckles aer all the way it then they are to short, or installed wrong. A pic would be a lot of help here.
The engine.... Did you just put fuel in and try to start it? It probably needs a DEEP cleaning done. If it were me I would pull the engine then tear it down and preasure cook it in antifreeze overnight. Replace the gaskets, and reassemble.
How is the compression? Is it hard to turn?
Basicly when I get a used nitro i take a week to tear the entire truck apart. I clean EVERYTHING. Tear the diffs apart and clean them out. And so on. It is time consuming and tedious but it will pay off in the end. Now aluminum a arms look awesome but have negative drawbacks, weight being one of them. You can try some big bore shocks but I would go with stiffer springs myself.
I Hope this helps you out some, Shaun
 
Reddog said:
First off if it had a grey tranny then it is a 3.3, most likley. Second if the turnbuckles aer all the way it then they are to short, or installed wrong. A pic would be a lot of help here.
The engine.... Did you just put fuel in and try to start it? It probably needs a DEEP cleaning done. If it were me I would pull the engine then tear it down and preasure cook it in antifreeze overnight. Replace the gaskets, and reassemble.
How is the compression? Is it hard to turn?
Basicly when I get a used nitro i take a week to tear the entire truck apart. I clean EVERYTHING. Tear the diffs apart and clean them out. And so on. It is time consuming and tedious but it will pay off in the end. Now aluminum a arms look awesome but have negative drawbacks, weight being one of them. You can try some big bore shocks but I would go with stiffer springs myself.
I Hope this helps you out some, Shaun
Click to expand...

Would love to post pics but don't have anywhere to host them and the forum won't host them for me.
 
post them on photobucket, you have to sign up but it is free. Ues the link and paste it in the post.
 
Here is the crazy toe in of the rear wheels:
image_zpsc6476b4f.webp


Here is the busted boots:
image2_zps45f497f1.webp


Here is the dust covers I pulled to tighten the hubs back to the a-arms:
image3_zps153f6ed0.webp


Here is one of the missing tiny screws as well as the goofy ass body mounts I dont like:
image4_zpsc22314ee.webp


---------- Post added at 3:08 AM ---------- Previous post was at 3:06 AM ----------

Also, the advice to tear it down is well received however I've never done that and the idea is a bit scary. Lol.
 
Ya the PO had it that way, I fixed it. I'm thinking about putting those wheels and tires on the T-Maxx classic I bought new last week. I like them better than the stock Chevrons.
 
battledonkey said:
I just bought a T-Maxx from a guy at work. He told me it was a 2.5 and that a friend of his had given it to him to make up for a debt and he hadn't run it in a year or so. I bought it and took a closer look...it has a 3.3 on it. I have no idea how to tell if it was originally a 3.3 or if someone did a swap. That's my first question: How do I tell what the heck it originally was? I don't know diddly about these things besides they're fun so sorry about the n00b questions!

It has Integy and RDLogics stuff ALL over it, including Integy aluminum a-arms and all that. Now begins the rest of my questions:

When you pick up the rear end and relieve the load on the rear suspension the rear wheels toe in horrendously. The turn buckles are pulled in 100%. Is this an issue and if so where can I get new properly sized rear turn buckles? The wheel hubs seemed loose so I pulled the wheels and some little dust covers and tightened the hubs. The rear end seems a little straighter. Hopefully this was the right thing to do? The fronts were wobbly too but I can't draw the hub in too tight or the truck wont't turn.

All of the boots where the a-arms meet the hub are torn. How bad is this? Does it need to be fixed immediately and if so where can I get the boots? Will I need any specialty tools or other items?

The body of this thing is all banged up so I'll be buying a new one but it has odd mount posts on it. Also, several tiny screws are missing in different places. Where can I buy this stuff?

Also, all the aluminum seems to really weigh down the stock looking shocks. What are some decent, budget but tougher replacement shocks?


Thanks in advance for everyone's help!

Doyle
Click to expand...

First off if your going to run this rig at all your going to want to ditch the Aluminum Arms and most of Integy stuff looks awesome put is softer than butter! The steering knuckles are ok in the Integy brand or at least I have had good luck with them. Even if it has the Grey trans it could be several different 3.3 maxx trucks. If it's the short chassis 3.3 it's the #4909 If it's extended then it's the #4908, or #4907. And yes that rear toe is freakin bad man. As someone else stated you would be better off tearing the hole rig down clean and inspect it. Also I didn't think RCLogics made that cross head for the 3.3? Those aluminum fuel tanks don't seal to great either.
 
First thing, the entire rear suspension needs taken apart. It is not that hard. May need new bearings. Also there is a geometry issue here. Maybe a bent part that is throwing it off. I have some stock arms I could toss you to try to see if that is where you issue is.
The engine. What is the compression like? Can you turn it past compressin with you fingers by the flywheel? Also have you cleaned the carb yet?
What a fun project you have there. Wish I were close enough to help out hands on. Shaun
 
Reddog said:
First thing, the entire rear suspension needs taken apart. It is not that hard. May need new bearings. Also there is a geometry issue here. Maybe a bent part that is throwing it off. I have some stock arms I could toss you to try to see if that is where you issue is.
The engine. What is the compression like? Can you turn it past compressin with you fingers by the flywheel? Also have you cleaned the carb yet?
What a fun project you have there. Wish I were close enough to help out hands on. Shaun
Click to expand...


Lol I just got done disassembling the whole rear end. The axle boots are torn too damn it. I know I want to get the RPM shock towers and body mounts but I think I'm gonna pull all the Integy a arms and all that off and see if I can find someone to trade for something less flashy. Like some RPMs or something. I'm thinking my Redcat Shockwave and my T-Maxx Classic can be my bashers and I'm gonna build this thing budget but nice.

Thanks to everyone that's been replying! I had a couple nitro cars that friends sold me when I was younger but I can't even remember the brand. I'm glad to be back into it though. I needed a hobby. Thanks again.
 
battledonkey said:
I just bought a T-Maxx from a guy at work. He told me it was a 2.5 and that a friend of his had given it to him to make up for a debt and he hadn't run it in a year or so. I bought it and took a closer look...it has a 3.3 on it. I have no idea how to tell if it was originally a 3.3 or if someone did a swap. That's my first question: How do I tell what the heck it originally was? I don't know diddly about these things besides they're fun so sorry about the n00b questions!

It has Integy and RDLogics stuff ALL over it, including Integy aluminum a-arms and all that. Now begins the rest of my questions:

When you pick up the rear end and relieve the load on the rear suspension the rear wheels toe in horrendously. The turn buckles are pulled in 100%. Is this an issue and if so where can I get new properly sized rear turn buckles? The wheel hubs seemed loose so I pulled the wheels and some little dust covers and tightened the hubs. The rear end seems a little straighter. Hopefully this was the right thing to do? The fronts were wobbly too but I can't draw the hub in too tight or the truck wont't turn.

All of the boots where the a-arms meet the hub are torn. How bad is this? Does it need to be fixed immediately and if so where can I get the boots? Will I need any specialty tools or other items?

The body of this thing is all banged up so I'll be buying a new one but it has odd mount posts on it. Also, several tiny screws are missing in different places. Where can I buy this stuff?

Also, all the aluminum seems to really weigh down the stock looking shocks. What are some decent, budget but tougher replacement shocks?


Thanks in advance for everyone's help!

Doyle
Click to expand...
i just got in to one just like you did, just do not let it turn in to a money pit. please
 
you could probably strip off all the bling off it and whack it on the bay you would be surprised what people will pay for that type of stuff ,I sold one of those rd logic tanks off a roller I got some time ago to a guy in brazil for $40 almost covered the cost of the roller
 
hulkmaxx said:
Dude if you don't like putting money into a rig your in the wrong hobby cause they are all money pits! LOL!
Click to expand...

not after buying one from a hobby store for 250.00 and told its great and needs nothing. Less then 3 thanks later i have a mix match t maxx (not a big deal) and i am spending another 100.00 to get back going. I know this hobby very well :\
 
I think I can trade a lot of the stuff I have for something different. I don't need the truck to be flashy. I'd rather have a good mix of well cared for and good looking and performance with an emphasis on well cared for and performance than flashy.

So far the agenda is:
-trade or sell the Integy stuff for rpm stuff. I don't mind the aluminum tank and braces and stuff but the shock towers, body mounts, a arms, and wheel hubs are going plastic for sure.
-new shocks or springs if needed
-clean as I disassemble.
-maybe rebuild the 3.3? Compression is good right now and I got it to fire up pretty easy so I don't know. I know I don't want that cross head on it anymore.
-gimme advice! What else?
 
chickenman242 said:
you could probably strip off all the bling off it and whack it on the bay you would be surprised what people will pay for that type of stuff
Click to expand...
Absolutely right. That stuff would sell, and help fund the new parts.

hulkmaxx said:
Dude if you don't like putting money into a rig your in the wrong hobby cause they are all money pits! LOL!
Click to expand...

Aint that the truth brother. Bash, crash, upgrade, repeat.
 
Is it safe to replace the rubber expansion boots on the shaft of the drive axles and keep using the axles? My other passion is 4x4 ATVs and I know in that realm if you puncture or tear a CV boot you might as well replace the whole axle. The T Maxx boot isn't for a CV but it seems like the same principal.
 
Last edited:
Thank you for the link. I was referring to the expansion boot on the drive axle itself.
 

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