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Need MT, what breaks?

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digger

Hardcore RCTalk User
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Location
Beckley
RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
Looking real hard at puchasing another truck. Have been looking at the Associated MGT, X-Factor and Savage. (Haven't gave Traxxas a second look) Just about narrowed it down to the Savage. Plenty of aftermarket parts and everyone says they are pretty tough. What are the weak points? Thanks
 
If you are talking about the Savage SS then they have had problems with the gas tanks. For some reason they tend to make the tuning leaner and leaner until it runs out. I have had problems with breaking dogbones but other than that they are great trucks.
 
Well. I own two t-maxxes and recieved the Savage the other day. (it's the old 21bb) Here's what I noticed

Not under powered like the maxx -no overheating
Stock Vs Stock probably 3-4x as durable.
Easier to tune do to not being under powered
Did I mention it was more durable.


All and all I'm much happier with the savage and wish it would have been my first buy.
 
I have never owned a T-MAXX but from what i have heard the savage is a lot more durable like lykan said. Definetely go with the savage.
 
I had a Savage, I have a Tmaxx, And I have a MGT.
I like the MGT the best out of all. It may be my personal preference, but the MGT is best in my book.
Only upgrade that I would do to the MGT, is the RPM arms, and shocks. They are fine stock.
Thats my 2 cents
 
Ratzo.. wht kind of driving do you like best? Mabe that helps?

I'm a basher hihgh speed jumps etc.. and I can't drive worth a Shoot..hence no videos lol...

Is the MGT just as durable jumping?
 
Hmmm savage weak points depend on which model you honestly get. Overall tough and just plain tough built to take abuse.
Overall savage weak points- Weak steering servo(will do fine while bashing), Lack of good steering which can be fixed pretty cheep, Linkage is weak for throttle/brake and the brakes suck stock.

Now the 25 comes with a three shoe clutch which will aid in wheelies and the primerless tank which is good to fix the leaning issue.

The SS comes with a 2 shoe clutch and a primered tank but comes with HD dogbones and a killer tuned pipe. It's a tossup. I'd honestly just buy the 25RTR and upgrade from there.
 
Ehhh the high torque servo that it comes with is the perfect throttle brake servo. It will turn the wheels while the truck is moving for sure but not while the truck is stopped. Also a better servo will give you better cornering abilities. I picked up a HItec 645mg for steering and it is beautiful. Also got some bearings for the steering and it made it so much smoother. You will also want to get rid of the stock servo saver and get a good one they are like $5.00
 
Just able to get back. Posted real fast before I went to work.
Servo saver takes the stress instead of the steering being hooked directly to the servo.

Thinking of getting the Savage 25 RTR.

I read a review that the wheels would strip out easy. Is this a problem? If so who makes a good set of wheels? And are the tires glued or would I have to buy a set?

Also on the roto start: I have a Hobbico Accu-Cycler, can I use it to charge the battery? http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXL357&P=0

Thanks
 
Weak points of a savage that I have found are the servo saver,plastic brake hub and the 2 shoe clutch for the earlier savages.Other than that its a real tank,enjoy!
 
Digger to answer your question yes that charger will work just fine the roto start only takes a 7.2V stick pack the type of stick pack is of your choosing with that charger as far as Nicad or Nimh.

Ok also the wheels yes are a problem for some reason They will strip out. You can just get another set of rims like from hot bodies or most any other kind of rim will work. Stockers are weak. I picked up a set of hot bodies devastator rims and they kick ass.

mud%20pics%20101.jpg


Also a Kimbrough Servo saver is a good idea. I am glad I bought mine.
 
What the deal w/ the SS fuel Tanks. I just purchased one. Could some one explain what they mean by the leaning out of the tune from the tank ??
 
I believe it's your basic pressure differential since the fuel empty's out at the bottom of the tank in the front I do believe it tends to lean out or have less fuel going to it as it gets less fuel in the line. Simply put the more fuel in the tank the more weight in it putting it in the line. As it empty's it has less and less weight put on it. Back pressure will only do so much for you. So as the tank go's from full to half full everything should run fine. As it go's from that point beyond it it will lean out more and more.
 
most tanks work on this same concept i dont know of one that works on its own w/o making some sort of fuel pump
 
Well see the SS tank has a front pickup that lets it out of the bottom of the tank. The new S-25 Primerless has a rear pickup seeing as how the tank sits on a natural slant this is a good thing. The rear pickup is a lot more effecient than the old style. Yes the new tank will have a little leaning but not as bad as the first tank. Only true way to fix the leaning problem is to add a header tank.
 
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