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bhwilder

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I've decided to build a tmaxx from the ground up and need eveyone's opinion....
The only thing for sure is I'm starting with a spider chassis,
everything else I need to know..
The biggest engine I can use
Transmission..
Servos..
Everything, so remeber this is gonna be a tmaxx, so let's not go overboard and say "put a v8 engine in it".
I'm talkin everything....
For starters, the engine, what's the biggest without modifing anything (NO TAXXAS 2.5 ENGINE), would the picco p2 be the biggest????
and so on and so on....:jet:
 
Got to put another plug in for the Sirio .18 (unbelievable engine!!)

Servos - here's great one for steering and the price is great
http://www.servocity.com/html/hs-645mg_ultra_torque.html

Nice aluminum diffs here:
http://www.maximizerproducts.com/Diffs.html

More links to Maxx upgrades
http://maxx.theparts.net/catagories/esp.html

Suspension: The Traxxas Big Bores are hard to beat for the price.

I can't remember who makes them, but there is this guy who races a Maxx and he just got these real trick pieces. Follow me with this one......it's the shock tower/bulkhead/diff case all cut from billet. They looked so freaking beefy. Anyways, good luck with the build.
 
Try posting under the T-EmaxxTalk of the forum, I am sure there are a lot more people who can give you advice.
:preachin:
 
Moved...

As for suggestions, you may want to define your limitations. Do you want to go with a .21 conversion in order to include the larger engines available to you? Are you cost limited? Are there things you plan to do with the truck (race vs bash)?
 
Make sure if you're not going witha a Big block conversion that you keep you power at tolerable limits for the stock drive train. A huge engine with stock drivetrain parts will reust in a series of fixes unbtil you are bullet proof.

Spring steel skid plates front and rear
Rc solution's alum bulks
RPM A-arms
RPM front shock tower.
Aluminum rear shock towers (rpm will flex too much and break gas tanks and headers)
Integy piggy back shocks
Ofna fuel tank (stock sucks)
Slipper setup instead of pegs
Flat RX pack
Lunsford Ti turnbuckles, pillow balls and Ti hinge pins
 
For engine, I vote for Picco P2, as you suggested. Drops right in with tons of power. You need tuned pipe tho. I am running this on a basically stock drive train with no problems yet. If you are really hard on the truck I am sure it would break something, but for general bashing and riding wheelies all day, it's hard to beat.

Also, the P2 engine is a pleasure to run. Barely needs any tuning once you get it set. The original 2.5 engine was always acting up on me.
 
aright, this is what i know
servo steering: hitec 645
servo throttle: stock
Engine: picco p2
Bulks: integy
a-arms: rpm
skids: any alum's
Shock towers: gpm
shocks: Try the progressive system
traxxas lower arms (or if the chassis wont fit em, whatever fits)
Wheels: any 40 sieries
tires: any 40 sieries
tranny just to be safe: mip cvds, rrp slipper set,
cb:18t
Spur:72t steel for the rrp slipper set.

Picco is a nice, reliable, cheap engine drop in. it is not too powerfull, thats why i didnt opt for steel tranny gears, but definitely get the foc for the tranny.

supermaxx roll cage (is that what it is called?)
also, if you want to change ur mind and modify sumptin for the engine, and have a lot of money, go for the sirio s27 pull start. we all want to see what it is like in a maxx! (BE SURE TO GET STEEL TRANNY GEARS FOR THAT ENGINE)
 
Point blank, how much are you willing to spend? I mean literally you can sink several K into building the ultimate T-Maxx. What are you going to use the truck for? Blink bling? Survivability from bashing? Bling bling you'll want as much alum and ti on her as possible.

Survivability you'll want a combo of alum, ti and plastic. While Sky was extremely successful with his a-arms being upper alum and lower plastic I personally think the RPM set all the way around was a better combo. Give us a few more details to be able to help you better, most specifically like I said earlier about the price you were willing to pay.


While I think a V-8 might be a big much a V-6 or a straight 4 might serve you better....
 
I'll be up front with you guys, I'll be out of debt in mid June, so money is not an object.
This is for racing to very mild bashing (as if there is such a thing) and I don't want a stadium truck.
The tmaxx is the best option. Don't want and don't like the 1/8ths.
For what I will be doing with the maxx, I want the ultimate monster truck just short of having to modifing anything. I want it to be as close to the tmaxx as possible.
I run mostly on dirt prepared dirt tracks. One of my own is built for speed with a couple of nice jumps (nothing huge) really close to the Daytona Speedway with a couple of jumps. It's eough to hit second gear for about 3-4 seconds and then brake into the turns. It's a really nice track.
Everything going in it will be the strongest on the market today.
 
I made a sportmaxx using parts that i had takin off my t-maxx after hopping it up. yea i got another truck but it cost me the same as like new... lol. all i had to buy was a tranny and a few misc things. but now like everything on the truck has been replaced.

If ur gona be going .21, get some of the supermaxx diffs so they can handle the power.

later
 
You want this!LOL:hehe:
 

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that's pretty much what I'm after, madman.
BTW if I done a conversion for a big block would I have to use a bigger chassis like the 1/8ths or could I stay with the tmaxx sized frames???
 
Not to rain on the t maxx parade but:
If it's truly going to be for racing and light bashing then it's not the spyder chassis that you will want to start with. Don't take me wrong, there's nothing wrong with that chassis but the cg will be much lower and it will handle much better if you were to choose one of the hybrid chassis. I've owned 3 t maxxes in the past 12 months and none of them overall would out handle or out perform my sut or mutant maxx. The sut comes with a .25 and my mutant has a sirio .27 in it. The sut was very cost effective and my mutant .... well that's another story.
Several of the racers are moving towards buggies converted to mt's with all of the new conversion kits that are becoming available. In addition you can put any amount of power into one that your pocketbook can handle without having to spend a bundle on drivetrain and suspension parts.... not to mention that they are generaly lighter than an aluminum t maxx.
Hardcore Racing and JT make the best kits for the hybrid chassis setups. In addition JT makes coversion kits for just about all of the major buggy manufactures.....Just my .02
https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=5522&papass=&sort=1&thecat=500
https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=4596&papass=&sort=1&thecat=500
 
Originally posted by bhwilder
that's pretty much what I'm after, madman.
BTW if I done a conversion for a big block would I have to use a bigger chassis like the 1/8ths or could I stay with the tmaxx sized frames???
Click to expand...

This is a UE Supermaxx with the THunder chassis and Stage III suspension. It is a bit longer then stock but, it is the strongest chassis and suspension you can buy! If you are going for more of a racer then a basher then go with what StrechM said or you could get the UE Racer-X which bad A$$ as well!

http://www.unlimitedengineering.com/
 
I have two Maxx's (one basher and one racer) and I think StrechM is right. I can't see how a Maxx would have any chance at all against an SUT. The buggy setup is a good handler, much lower CG.

I been lookin' at the SUT. My race track doesn't have seperate classes for MT racing. For now, everybody races real MT's, not converted buggies. Maybe I'll get the SUT if anyone else starts showing up with one. Hopefully, if that happens, they'll start an unlimited class and keep the buggy style MT's in that.
 
:sniper:
That's really nice dude.
Thumbs up to the paint job!!!
 

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