n00b needs help again please

[battledonkey]

Awesome! If it gets to that point I'm sure I'll have some questions.

 

[Alexander_0_1]

No problem, hey if it's easier to watch on video, then check this web address out the first video covers what I mentioned.

http://clockworkracingengines.com/content/cre-tech-tips-0

 

[Tdogg]

Do not try a turn rotostart if there a lot of back pressure building could really damage the engine. Don't mean to be rude but take to a shop should be 25 pounds. 40 odd dollars for a full service

 

[mrbones]

You need to take the rest of the engine apart and inspect it for anything that might have broken off and come up through that cylinder such as a piece of the engine case (or casting) or a chunk from the piston skirt or something. If it was something like that, they probably would give you a new one. They just might give you a new one anyway.

 

[Alexander_0_1]

Do not try a turn rotostart if there a lot of back pressure building could really damage the engine. Don't mean to be rude but take to a shop should be 25 pounds. 40 odd dollars for a full service

The only time we take our R/C back to the shop they came from, is when we wanna show them off to the staff.

-Rolex-

^^Or it was something like that^^

 

[battledonkey]

Ok, I disassembled the whole thing. There's the surface damage on the top of the piston and some minor abrasions down the side....and that's it. No other piece in that motor seems to show any premature wear and tear. I think I'm gonna have to take responsibility for this. I had to have gotten something in the motor somehow.

Before I broke it down I did call HPI and they said if it's clearly a mechanical failure they'll be happy to help. But it isn't and I'm not gonna try to sleaze my way into a new motor. I'll buy a new one soon and give it hell again.

Thanks for all the support!

 

[Rolex]

Do not try a turn rotostart if there a lot of back pressure building could really damage the engine. Don't mean to be rude but take to a shop should be 25 pounds. 40 odd dollars for a full service

The only time we take our R/C back to the shop they came from, is when we wanna show them off to the staff.

-Rolex-

^^Or it was something like that^^

I was just about to say that.

 

[Blubbergutts]

My first savage x last year was a complete pain nearly binned it so frustrating got it right eventually with time, try hpi what have you got to loose that's what the warrantys for.

 

[bifft it]

is the pipe full of crap and the backpressure just found the weakest place to blow a gaping hole to get out?

 

[battledonkey]

It had oily residue and gunk like running rich does but no chunks or actual solids.

 

[sv250]

Looks like most of the pits are from detonation. You may have chewed up a glow plug coil at one point. Smooth that head button out where the chunks are and run it.

Now the pipe is just a POS as mentioned. The burnt fuel collects at that spot and weakens it. I believe its made from a plastic/fiber mix. I have seen a few blow out at that exact spot.

 

[battledonkey]

So wait? Sand or grind the pits out of the top of the piston?

 

[jmarcet85]

Yea it looks to me like it was run lean I run 30% in all my trucks and never had a problem with predetonation Hpi will look at that engine and tell you it wasn't broken in properly or just leaned out to much. I would clean it out really good put some ceramic bearings, piston and sleeve and call it a day but your exhaust pipe that just baffles me. I would also make sure you use a r5 cold plug. not using the correct plug can cause predetonation. Hope everything works out for ya. Here is a picture of my head with about five gallons of byrons race 3000 nothing but a nice golden color. I hope everything works out for you

 

[battledonkey]

Sounds good.

 

[Tdogg]

I was just about to say that.

Well not much point trying show of a car that don't work