beason
Bash, Fix, Repeat..
I'm with heart. take the strans out and make sure it spins freely. it could be shot bearings in the axle carriers, or even gear mess that is to tight at the cb/spur. check that trans and get back to us
-
Welcome to RCTalk! 🚀
Join the #1 RC community where hobbyists connect, share, and get expert advice on RC cars, trucks, boats, drones, and more!
- ✓ Friendly & passionate RC enthusiasts
- ✓ RC tips & troubleshooting
- ✓ Buy, sell & trade RC gear
- ✓ Share builds & upgrades
My RC10GT Rebuild
- Thread starter Monkey Wrench
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
- Thread starter
- #22
Okay... Easy enough
Have you tried to spin the tranny without the spur gear on the slipper shaft? To remove the gear, just take out the two buttonhead screws out of the spur. Try spinning it then. I tried spinning it just by the spur gear, but did not take the spur itself off. I'll see if that makes a difference, but it was still fairly tight even just with the spur.
How about with the cvd's out of the drive cups? No, thought the same thing. Brand new MIP CVD's.
Once it's isolated down to the gearbox, did you put ANY shims in the transmission? It should NOT need any shims at all. I can't recall off the top of my head, but this may the reason.
Did you put bearings in the trans case? There should be a total of 6 (not counting the two in the diff). Yes, brand new bearings with fresh bearing oil.
Did you check the bearings for smoothness? Yes.
Hope that helps ya track it down... Absolutely! Thanks a ton! It may be the shims you mentioned.
Have you tried to spin the tranny without the spur gear on the slipper shaft? To remove the gear, just take out the two buttonhead screws out of the spur. Try spinning it then. I tried spinning it just by the spur gear, but did not take the spur itself off. I'll see if that makes a difference, but it was still fairly tight even just with the spur.
How about with the cvd's out of the drive cups? No, thought the same thing. Brand new MIP CVD's.
Once it's isolated down to the gearbox, did you put ANY shims in the transmission? It should NOT need any shims at all. I can't recall off the top of my head, but this may the reason.
Did you put bearings in the trans case? There should be a total of 6 (not counting the two in the diff). Yes, brand new bearings with fresh bearing oil.
Did you check the bearings for smoothness? Yes.
Hope that helps ya track it down... Absolutely! Thanks a ton! It may be the shims you mentioned.
HeartBreak
RCTalk VIP
There should be absolutely no shims on the sides of the gears (between the gears and the bearings). Also, the bearings themselves may be too thick (compare with stock/the ones that came out).
beason
Bash, Fix, Repeat..
i just recently rebuilt mine and tightning the case screws to far made mine bind. you may have to use some rvt to seal it and just snug the case screws.
HeartBreak
RCTalk VIP
beason said:
The electrics like the T3 and B3 are this way; just a hair too much on the screws, and the tranny binds. I don't remember if the GT is that way (its been a LONG time since I had to open the case). You shouldn't need to use any RTV on the case, since it has a lip that seals up the seam. But, a thin bead shouldn't hurt any.
beason
Bash, Fix, Repeat..
when i took it apart it was full of nasty gritty stuff. so i didnt want any more dirt getting in. i only used a small bead.
I had to do the same thing. I did a trade for a Mini T on RCU and it was described as a FT GT. It still had the tub chassis. Mines practically brand new now.
What clutch shoes you running? I was using the 4in1 with engine drag and I didn't like it. Or the stock ones can hang on with the lack of springs too.
For your gear box, the smallest amount of grease is needed. It too can cause drag. With metal gears I would apply grease and wipe it off. There will be enough left on the gear that you can't get too and that is usually enough, any more and it bind with the close tolerances.
I know you are running a big block, but I usually recommend the plastic gears just for the fact that you don’t add grease with them. If you slipper is set correctly the plastic gears will be ok.
What clutch shoes you running? I was using the 4in1 with engine drag and I didn't like it. Or the stock ones can hang on with the lack of springs too.
For your gear box, the smallest amount of grease is needed. It too can cause drag. With metal gears I would apply grease and wipe it off. There will be enough left on the gear that you can't get too and that is usually enough, any more and it bind with the close tolerances.
I know you are running a big block, but I usually recommend the plastic gears just for the fact that you don’t add grease with them. If you slipper is set correctly the plastic gears will be ok.
Last edited:
