My first nitro... and I got the T-Maxx (quite long)

[Sasquatch]

Just recieved my T-Maxx..:ahh: actually I got two, one for my friend too....

Now I'm waiting for my shipment of goods from Towerhobbies. I live in Denmark and no LHS has the Traxxas stuff and are very expensive with most other accessories.....

Sigh. It's just as waiting for christmas as a little kid...

I read alot on different forums (Traxxas & here ect.) and I decided to get a Hi-Tec 645MG for steering servo, a failsafe, Rx hump pack, + different stuff that came into mind.....

I wanted to be as prepared as I could possibly be before breaking the truck in. I watched the DVD several times allready.

All the "horror" stories I read about runaway trucks ect. ect. I really don't want that thing to go WOT with me trying to catch up heheh

Now only awaiting the shipment so I can start working on the truck.

But I still have a few things i'm in doubt of:

When I replace the stock steering servo with the 645MG and I put that one instead of the throttle / brake servo. Will it be OK to leave the stock forward / reverse servo or should I put the stock throttle / brake servo there.... or it it not that important how strong / fast it it to shift forward / reverse ???

Secondly i removed the stock 4 x AA batteryholder. Cut the wire on my hump pack and soldered it to the ON/OFF switch. Then I soldered the, now loose, remaining hump pack wire to the 3rd set of pins on the ON/OFF switch. In that way I have a stationary hump pack with the ability to recharge it without taking it out. I guess it is a somewhat "modded" version of that shown by Misbehaven RC. But this way I can recharge it with the ON/OFF in the OFF position.

I know myself.. forgetting to set the switch... wanting to race right now..... low batt!!! GRRR:flaming:

But now i'm getting second thoughts.... will it be OK to have a "stationary" hump pack in the truck ?? My other reason for this was the elimination of the Rx hump pack wire to become disconnected during driving. I know that a throttle return spring would prevent the truck from going WOT even when the failsafe is not helping cause the power to it is off, but I just wanted your input....

last.. Is there anything i should remember, be aware off before i Break in my truck.. ??

Sorry for the length of the thread.......

I'm out:jet:

Regards from Denmark

 

[SkyMaxx]

Congratulations on the new Truck. The first thing and last thing you should do with plenty of repetition in between is...

WATCH THE VIDEO, WATCH THE VIDEO, WATCH THE VIDEO.

READ THE MANUAL, READ THE MANUAL, READ THE MANUAL.

The break in of the engine is just about the most important part of getting your truck ready. If you cut corners or take short cuts hoping to get to the real fun stuff quicker, you will most likely screw up the engine and have more trouble than fun. SO TAKE YOUR TIME.

As for your hump pack mod, sounds like it works. So you probably don't have to change it.

Servo placement. 645 as steering, stock steering on the throttle break, and stock throttle to reversing position sounds like a good plan. The switching of the reversing servo is optional.

The only other thing I can think of in the way of upgrades are some stronger shocks and maybe a ProLine steering kit. I am assuming that you already have a fuel filter and air filter.

For the shocks there are many all aluminum shocks out there. You can go with TRAXXAS Big Bores; I run with a set made by AE. Others will have a number of recommendations.

 

[ImBroken]

I have a 1st gen. Maxx, but from what I've read, it is very important to read the break in instructions and follow them very closely for the new 2.5 motor. Dont get over anxious and stray from the directions. Do yourself a favor and run it rich for a half gallon or so before leaning for speed. One very important step is going over the whole truck and tightening all screws. The motor mount screws should be taken out and locktited. I also found my stock shocks to be half filled out of the box. You can check these later on, as its not critical during breakin. I always suggest a seperate glow ignitor to start the mill, rather than using the blue wire. It heats the glow plug that much more making it easier to start a new mill during breakin. Just remember to have patience, and return to the forums for any questions you may have. We've all been through this, some of us many times. It can be frustrating at times..
Good luck, God speed....

 

[Sasquatch]

OK. Thank you all for replying...

Yes i have a Du-bro fuel filter comming in the shipment from Tower. I really don't want anything other than fuel in there at 35000 rpm... yikes..!!!

As for airfilter I currently have no other that stock Traxxas, but on our next order from Tower we will get the motor Saver ones. They look preatty good.

For now i / we will just have to (at shown in the DVD) clean it for every hour of running or so... It's not that big of a problem..

At $600+ now (have'nt even run it yet!!!) i'm surely going to take good care of it.

As for the shocks I will wait for them to either break or me wanting stronger ones as a replacement before doing anything with them.


Edit:

And yes I have read the manual, read the manual, watched the dVD, watched the DVD, over and over again..... Breakin must!!!!!!! be done correctly... in fact ewery LHS i asked says something different. breakin should be done this way... blah blah.... i even shoved one guy the dVD before he was convinced.... WD-40 ad after run.. NONNONNNOONONO!!! but then he changed his mind ....
Regards....:fro:

 

[NCNitro]

One thing everyone has overlooked. The stock servo saver will not fit on the Hiteck steering servo, good choice in servos btw. You will need to get something like the Kimbrough servo saver, it will come with three adapters to fit three different servos.

Also as Sky mentioned replacing the stock throttle servo with the stock steering servo after you install the hiteck, great idea, I did this too when I installed my 645 steering servo. However the stock steering servo and reverse servo should both be 2018s, therefore moving the stock steering servo to the reverse position would merely be a waste of time, as they are both the same servo.

I recomend a forward only conversion and remove the reverse servo all together.

ImBrokens suggestion of getting a glow igniter and not using the blue wire to the glow plug is a great suggestion. I did this myself almost immediately after buying my truck. You will find the truck will start easier and the starter battery will last much longer.

Congrats on the new truck! Have fun!

 

[Nitroaddict]

congrats sasquach!!!!

ill say it again, just to strengthen the importance. Follow the breakin instructions, read the manual, watch the dvd!

Regarding break-in of the engine. Ignore what anyone says at the LHS or your friends. Follow the instructions, and dvd for breaking in the engine. do it EXACTLY As traxxas says. they are the ones that built, they know how to break it in. good luck, and have fun!!!

 

[Sasquatch]

Forgot to mention. The Kimbrough servosaver is also in the shipment from Tower :thumbsup:

I'm planning to make most of the changes thats listed on the Misbehaven RC page.. Fuel line rerouting and everything....

Regarding the servos. I did'nt notice that the throttle and shifting servos were the same......

As for the blue wire. I will be getting at seperate glow plug igniter, besause I don't think that the OS # 8 glow plug will work with the wire....

Thank you again for responding..

Regards, Denmark (where the weather is just right for working on your truck because it is cold and raining... grrr:censored:

 

[Nitroaddict]

sas - verify this with someone who has used the traxxas 2.5 engine, but isnt a #8 plug a lil high? Myself, and everyone else i know use #3's

 

[Sasquatch]

Hmm acording to OS it is a hot plug designed for engines from 1.5ccm to 3.5ccm i think.

My dad is actually able to buy them for a slick. $2:OMG:

But only #8 I'm afraid. Don't know why....


Regards....

edit:

Towerhobbies also states the OS # 3 plug as the economy version of # 8. But at the price I'm able to get them to it should work out....

i'm open for suggestions.... Rossi also makes glowplugs I'm able to get here in Denmark, but I'm not sure hwat number to get though ++?

 

[NCNitro]

Sounds like you got everyting you need to get a good start.

By the way, welcome to RCNT. You will find alot of great knowledgable guys willing to help out here.

 

[Sasquatch]

Originally posted by NCNitro
Sounds like you got everyting you need to get a good start.

By the way, welcome to RCNT. You will find alot of great knowledgable guys willing to help out here.

Thank you..

Actually I read all I could before deciding what type to get and so on.. in the meantime a friend of mine slapped $500 on the table and wanted one too. he has never before in his life had any RC before.... (he bought a cheapo NIKKO 13 Mph as my son has just to get udes to it).. LOL

This forum and the one at Traxxas has been a great help. Actually better than the help i got from my LHS.... He never heard of traxxas....:w00t:

 

[Kretchy]

thoughts on mods

first you shouldn't worry about the other servos unless they break down, then replace as you go. second you should watch the hump and check every so often depending on how many mah the output of your charger is. Ratio to pack for charging is about 1 hour to 100 mah< so if charger output is 100mah and pack is 1000mah, approx 10 hours charge time. Just make sure they don't over heat while charging, if the case gets hot to touch shut it off for a while till cool then continue. Ni-Cads are more likely to get hot while charging than Ni-mhd, third one of the most important add ons you can buy is an on-board temp guage, you don't want to run your engine too often over 310-320 degrees F 270 to 290 is about right with average bashing around.