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My broken maxx

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GillesRich

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It seems that every time I take out my Maxx it breaks (I break it) :\.

First time I took it out (after break in procedure) I broke a turnbuckle. I'm still running on a mickey moused part.

Then I went bashing at a pit that's all shale and landed upside down and stripped the threads out of my motor mount and stripped the spur gear.

I'll be buying a new motor mount and spur gear but my question is... Is there a way I could re-thread my motor mount so I can save it as a spare part? I know I could just use a tap but will it be strong enough or something i can do to help make better threads out of the stripped ones like drop some solder in there and re-tap. Just trying to think outside the box?

Thanks for your input.

GillesRich
 
You can try it but I don't think it will hold. The stock mount is made of soft cast aluminum and thats why they don't last. When you replace it look at a machined engine mount, this will be a lot stronger.
 
Which hole stripped? The one that the motor screws to, or the one that holds it to the chassis? If it is the one that holds it to the chassis, you should be able to run a longer screw through it and put a 3mm locknut on the top side of the mount. If it's the other one not much you can do there. But as Smaxxin mentioned, a billet aluminum mount will be much better than the stock cast piece.
 
It's the engine side

It's the engine holes that stripped, 2 of them. I guess landing upside down is not really recommended! hehe

So what would you recommend on buying? OFNA? Any suggestions.

Thanks again.

GillesRich

tnx rcnitro, you made me think of something.

The actual threaded holes for the engine mount is actually twice as deep as what is being used. So if I can find longer bolt with the same thread profile I should be able to use the full length of the hole!

I'll be on the hunt for longer screws and an extra engine mount on Tuesday at my LHS.

Thanks again.

GillesRich
 
the motor mount is a big problem with me as well. I just solved the issue though with a new era 3pt cage. i went through about 3 stock mounts and 5 traxxas aluminum mounts and about 7-8 spur gears before i finally coughed up the dough. realistically i could have saved myself a bunch of money by buying the cage to begin with. but we learn the hard way. i say if you replace the mount you can use a stock cheap mount IF you run a cage. otherwise your just going to keep doing it no matter what kind of mount you use. i also use a integy metal spur gear now and havent had any problem with mounts or spur gears
 
I kind of figured it was going to be a problem. So when I went to my LHS yesterday to buy a new motor mount and a couple of extra spur gears I told the salesman that I was planning on drilling a hole in my chassis and putting a long bolt that would provide as a protective post. He then told me that he had a roll bar made by FullForce RC. He had it on sale for 1/2 price so I decided to buy it.

I'm not sure how well it will work but I'm gonna give it a shot. It seems like it might be a little too short, but we'll see after I install it. If it does end up too short I'll just put a couple of nuts under each post to rise it a 1/4".

Thanks for the tips guys, this is one of the friendliest forums around!

Props to you all.

GillesRich
 
the second bar down is the one i got and it works flawlessly, but if i would have known they had the first model i probably would have gotten that one. it just looks more like its built for the purpose of protecting the motor which is why i bought the cage to begin with.
but over all i am happy.
my LHS had the fullforce bar as well. i bought it and returned it because it was going to be a pain to mount and the throttle linkage would also have to be modified. not to mention it wouldnt fit with my motor-saver intake
 

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