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MBX5T Prospec

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Ofna1

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Finally got a MBX5T Prospec on the way from Tower, Is there any thing on the build that you would recomend ??? Any tips or hints would be great. I have a V-spec to use for the motor and a Futaba Fasst for the radio, and the Hi Tec HS-645MG for the steering. Thanks for any help
 
I suggest getting a Rechargeable pack. I am not sure on the Futaba ones but Spektrum has a built in Failsafe. If the Futaba does not than get a failsafe.

Don't rush building. Pay attention to the diffs. I suggest shimming the diffs so there is no play.

Have fun building that beauty.
 
Ofna1 said:
I plan on a long build, I want every thing to be done good.
Click to expand...

Good idea. Post up some build pics of you can. It would be nice to see a fresh build being done.
 
You don't have to shim Mugen difs, as a matter of fact, there's no room for shimming the difs on the 5R or 5T. Do yourself a favor and get the oversized dif o-rings from A Main or Carolina's or Tony's and use them. Also get a tube of Mobil 1 synthetic grease to put on the o-ring and the outdrive during build up. Also I and a lot of other guys are using the non-prospec chassis braces (the plastic ones), the seem to be working better and will help in preventing the body from cracking along with making the holes in the body egg shaped. Start with the Scott Hughes setup and adjust from there. Scott has a very aggressive driving style and runs strapped, but the setup is great. You may want to reconsider you servo choice, the HS-645 for throttle is quite slow and may not give you the response your looking for and on steering it might be a little weak and could burn up quick. I think Monkey Wrench was running that one and burned it up on steering.
 
It's quite slow but what's your budget? .24 on the travel isn't going to give you the response. It has a decent amount of torque for braking which you need but the speed may hurt you when you need to hammer it coming out of the whole. Look for servos with a .10 or less transit time. Let us know your budget for servos first.
 
Thanks, is one better for the throttle and one for the steering ? if so which one. It looks like I can get the 5955TG for a little cheaper. let me lnow.
 
Good to know Jet on the shimming. Is that for all Mugen - R and T?
 
The 5996TG would be for throttle brake, 139in/oz @ 6.0V with a .10 transit the 5955TG is 333 in/oz @ 6.V with a .15 transit. Both can take about 11.0V.

Yeah Jon, 5R and 5T, the difs are a little different than the older Mugen MBX5. After some time though I've thrown a shim into the left side at the outdrive due to wear in the housing on the 5T and cause mesh is more critical with the helical cut gears. However, it was about 10 gallons when I threw a shim in there, just too lazy to replace the case.
 
Were do I find a small tube of Mobil 1 synthetic grease ? the only thing I could find is a big cylinder.
 
That's it, the cylinder will last you a good while. Considering you should use it to rebuild your difs and a tube of Mugen SuperGrease will cost you the same it's well worth the $6.
 
hey just a tad bit of help on the shocks drill the pistons out with a 1.5 mm drill bit.....enjoy I also used differnt break pads this set up works killer in the diffs go 7k frt 10 k center and 3k rear....no s3 o rings+ the shock set up should be 400 wt frt and 350 wt rear with the pistons drilled out to 1.5 mm hope this helps you all..
 
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ON the build, is there any parts I should use red lock tite on ? or should I just use the blue lock tite ?
 
I always use blue...IF you get a cronic loose part then use the smallest amount of red...that stuff really locks screws in.
 
Oh, one thing I will share with you that Jetmech found on mine. Make sure the rear axle carriers are on the correct sides! I kept wondering why I was popping CVD's on my rear, turned out I had the axle carriers on the wrong sides.
 

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