MBX5R Completely Finished, Finally!!! (pics inside)

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Bad LS1

RCTalk Basher
Messages
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Location
The Woodlands
RC Driving Style
Well I can finally say my first RC car ever is finally complete. Everything from assembly, glueing tires, painting body, to breaking in the engine. I am ready for the track!!! I've ran it a bunch around the house but I need to get our to Mike's Hobby shop in Porter Tx to try my skills (or lack there of) on a real track. :redbuggy:

I think the most difficult part was painting the body. First time I have tried painting something other than white walls in a house!! :LoL: Also thanks to everyone on this site. Reading posts and asking questions made the whole process so much easier!! OK so here is a bunch of pics......

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and the work area so with wife will quit complaining about the kitchen table!!! Haha
buggy6.jpg
 
DAMN! Your wife lets you hang posters of chicks in bikinis? LUCKY!

Oh, and the buggy looks fantastic, too!

Have fun with it!
 
I have that same Hooters Calender.. Very nice..
 
36 pics of my buggy and all anyone notices is a small bikini pic off in the distance!!!

:LoL:
 
36 pics of my buggy and all anyone notices is a small bikini pic off in the distance!!!

:LoL:
Hey this is a little late but there are some must do things on that kit dont use the rubber O rings in the diffs put lots of grease on the out drives get rid of the plastic servo horn for the steering and get better brake disc other than that it will rock and roll nice looking build you did the mugen kit is so nice to build!!!!!!!!!! you will love it....
 
Hey this is a little late but there are some must do things on that kit dont use the rubber O rings in the diffs put lots of grease on the out drives get rid of the plastic servo horn for the steering and get better brake disc other than that it will rock and roll nice looking build you did the mugen kit is so nice to build!!!!!!!!!! you will love it....

thanks for the tips. Yeah I did put the o-rings in the diffs. The instructions called for 4 in the front, 2 in the center, and none in the rear. Not sure exactly what they do but I will take them out sometime soon if I feel like tearing it back down for cleaning or something.
 
Wow,

I must be getting old, I was going to post at work and something came up...LOL. I did not even notice the Calendar....LMAO. It looks great, I hope you have a blast with it.


Hawk
 
DAMN! Your wife lets you hang posters of chicks in bikinis? LUCKY!

Oh, and the buggy looks fantastic, too!

Have fun with it!


I was thinking the same thing... I brought out one of the XRC posters and the wife quickly nixed that idea.


Nice buggy my friend.... Enjoy. You have one of the best buggies money can buy.

Tom
 
Wow,

I must be getting old, I was going to post at work and something came up...LOL. I did not even notice the Calendar....LMAO. It looks great, I hope you have a blast with it.


Hawk

Don't feel bad, I took the pic and didn't really think about it. Maybe I'm just used to it. I'm having a great time with it. Funny how all the neighbors mosey on over when they see it running up and down the street and it turns them into kids again!

I was thinking the same thing... I brought out one of the XRC posters and the wife quickly nixed that idea.


Nice buggy my friend.... Enjoy. You have one of the best buggies money can buy.

Tom

need my address for that poster since you have no use for it? :cheerful:
 
thanks for the tips. Yeah I did put the o-rings in the diffs. The instructions called for 4 in the front, 2 in the center, and none in the rear. Not sure exactly what they do but I will take them out sometime soon if I feel like tearing it back down for cleaning or something.

dont feel badd I have the orings in mine but drove my teamates with out and its alot better I'm with you someday I will take mine out...good luck you will love that buggy I have a jammin cr team and a sp2 that just sit now and I'm going to sell them...mugen rocks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:marshall:
 
The o-rings make the difs feel heavier than what you have in them. The only o-rings you should use are the ones where the outdrive passes through. Mugen Super Grease or my preferred Mobil 1 Sythetic Grease are great to slop on the outdrive before sticking them in. Setup tips for ya or at least what I am noticing from the pics:
1) Set your track width to 276mm which is about 1 1/2 -2 threads showing on the lower pillow ball coming out of the arm. The use the upper to adjust your camber. Track width is a big tuning aid with this buggy.
2) Front and rear bones should be at or slightly above level for proper ride height.
3) Don't run full droop! This buggy has sooooooo much droop it's insane which is cool but if your running on a moderate to high bite track she'll wanna traction roll. Set the buggy w/no wheels on top of 2 blank wheels (1 front one back) and adjust to about 18mm droop front and rear. It's a good starting point. I think base may be 10.
Have fun with it! You can push it pretty hard and it handles the rough stuff like it's on glass!
 
The o-rings make the difs feel heavier than what you have in them. The only o-rings you should use are the ones where the outdrive passes through. Mugen Super Grease or my preferred Mobil 1 Sythetic Grease are great to slop on the outdrive before sticking them in. Setup tips for ya or at least what I am noticing from the pics:
1) Set your track width to 276mm which is about 1 1/2 -2 threads showing on the lower pillow ball coming out of the arm. The use the upper to adjust your camber. Track width is a big tuning aid with this buggy.
2) Front and rear bones should be at or slightly above level for proper ride height.
3) Don't run full droop! This buggy has sooooooo much droop it's insane which is cool but if your running on a moderate to high bite track she'll wanna traction roll. Set the buggy w/no wheels on top of 2 blank wheels (1 front one back) and adjust to about 18mm droop front and rear. It's a good starting point. I think base may be 10.
Have fun with it! You can push it pretty hard and it handles the rough stuff like it's on glass!
Good info looked at mine and is close this buggy has so much on power control its almost not a fair race for the others!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:celebrate: :celebrate: :celebrate: :celebrate: :celebrate:
 
The o-rings make the difs feel heavier than what you have in them. The only o-rings you should use are the ones where the outdrive passes through. Mugen Super Grease or my preferred Mobil 1 Sythetic Grease are great to slop on the outdrive before sticking them in. Setup tips for ya or at least what I am noticing from the pics:
1) Set your track width to 276mm which is about 1 1/2 -2 threads showing on the lower pillow ball coming out of the arm. The use the upper to adjust your camber. Track width is a big tuning aid with this buggy.
2) Front and rear bones should be at or slightly above level for proper ride height.
3) Don't run full droop! This buggy has sooooooo much droop it's insane which is cool but if your running on a moderate to high bite track she'll wanna traction roll. Set the buggy w/no wheels on top of 2 blank wheels (1 front one back) and adjust to about 18mm droop front and rear. It's a good starting point. I think base may be 10.
Have fun with it! You can push it pretty hard and it handles the rough stuff like it's on glass!

Thanks for the info! 1 & 2 have been taken care of. For 3 can you explain droop and how to adjust it? Thanks!
 
Don't feel bad, I took the pic and didn't really think about it. Maybe I'm just used to it. I'm having a great time with it. Funny how all the neighbors mosey on over when they see it running up and down the street and it turns them into kids again!



need my address for that poster since you have no use for it? :cheerful:

Sure man... I have no use for them... or at least my wife does not think so! LOL

Hey Jet... I am also curious on exactly what droop is as well. I have heard the term before many times. Thanks man.

Tom
 
I will provide info on droop once I get on a real computer. I'm on my crackleberry now. Check back McLater
 
Here goes:
Droop is a very sensitive adjustment, since it affects and alters weight transfer,and all aspects of chassis performance are affected: braking, acceleration, jumping,traction and rough track handling.

You adjust droop by the little set screws in the lower arms that contact the little tabs on the chassis. The 5R has just an insane amount of droop available and it's really funky to watch if you run at full droop and catch some big air, it looks like a bird lowering it's legs. It also looks crazy when you have the car on a stand it looks like your running about 15* of front toe out! Even with a typical .5-1* front toe (set at ride height) it still looks like you are running 5-7* toe with a lot of droop in the car. A lot of droop is what helps this thing suck up the rough stuff but will also make you traction roll. Also unequal droop from side to side will make your buggy jump "uneven" like one side is always kicking higher than the other which on landing, won't always let you go the direction your wanting to go.
 
Here goes:
Droop is a very sensitive adjustment, since it affects and alters weight transfer,and all aspects of chassis performance are affected: braking, acceleration, jumping,traction and rough track handling.

You adjust droop by the little set screws in the lower arms that contact the little tabs on the chassis. The 5R has just an insane amount of droop available and it's really funky to watch if you run at full droop and catch some big air, it looks like a bird lowering it's legs. It also looks crazy when you have the car on a stand it looks like your running about 15* of front toe out! Even with a typical .5-1* front toe (set at ride height) it still looks like you are running 5-7* toe with a lot of droop in the car. A lot of droop is what helps this thing suck up the rough stuff but will also make you traction roll. Also unequal droop from side to side will make your buggy jump "uneven" like one side is always kicking higher than the other which on landing, won't always let you go the direction your wanting to go.


good info! question though, you said to have 18mm of droop, so does that mean when your lower arms are parallel with the table/ground they will travel 18mm downward before the set screw hits the tabs on the chassis and stops the movement downward?
 
18mm is measured like this:
Take two new wheels (no tire) and place one under the front of the chassis and one under the rear of the chassis. Then use something to measure to the from the surface to the lower edge of the hub or upright. I actually have a gauge but you can be creative. The setup sheet kinda gives you an idea of the reference points.
 
I think I got it but the saying is right, a picture is worth a thousand words! :LoL:

I'll dig around and see what I can find on droop.
 
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