• Welcome to RCTalk! 🚀

    Join the #1 RC community where hobbyists connect, share, and get expert advice on RC cars, trucks, boats, drones, and more!

    • ✓ Friendly & passionate RC enthusiasts
    • ✓ RC tips & troubleshooting
    • ✓ Buy, sell & trade RC gear
    • ✓ Share builds & upgrades

lrp eats glow pulgs

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
H

hpibasher

RCTalk Racer
Messages
81
Reaction score
4
Points
93
Location
seattle
RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
  2. Racing
i have an savage ss and the plugs dont last what is going on i that the plug element wire brakes in half. my engine temps have been around 190 to 230 f and running odonals 20% lasting about one to two tanks. i can't figure this out please help thanks:angry:
 
That may be your problem. It is a pretty high compression engine so the hot plugs have a thinner element and are more prone to breaking. Try a cold plug like an OS A5. Worst that could happen is the engine does not like it. Keep in mind you will have to re-turn with the different plug.
 
this problem started when i changed from monster trenty fuel to odonalds fuel because of the lhs was out of monster. before the change it liked the os #8. I haved tried the a5 before and it seemed to work just fine. with this fuel i will try again and see what happens.
 
The OS # 8 may work but it is not the correct plug, it is a short plug and is missing about 2.5 threads. It will lower your compression and performance slightly, but will still run. You shouldn't be blowing plugs with 20% unless something els is wrong, what pipe are you running and how much fuel do you have through the engine? Have you removed any head shims? Popping plugs can happen if a main bearing is about to let go as well.
 
I found that out the expensive way...
Bought a used engine off the bay and when I tore it down saw that the button was chewed up by glo-plug elements.
The front bearing had a lot of slop (probably the rear too) which caused the crank to have a funky rotation. This caused the glo-plugs to go and also messed up the part of the crankshaft that the con-rod rides on.

I bought a piston/conrod set before noticing the slop on the crank...
Would've been cheaper and less hassle to buy a complete engine in the first place.
 
This engine has around 6 gallons of fuel. When the plug does go out the element does stay in the plug every time that is one thang i have watched for. i still have the factory amount of head shims still in. I konw the lsn is really rich..

The motor was broken in by heat cycle and dottom dead center and after run oil at the end of every run. I have knowen for while that there is little slop in the conecting rod but nothing big. last night i did get an new plug an (os # A5) and it lasted for two tanks of running and it still works. I did find out the hsn housing was lose and moving when the engine was running. I just need it to last an little longer so i can get an new engine.
 
6 gallons, it is way overdue for bearings. Rod is probably crap too. I've been preaching about bearings on this forum for god knows how long.... You wait too long and this is what you get. Exetreme RC Mods is dead on.
 
You are correct on the bearings. I have seen the posting many times. the bearing should be replaced at two gallons if not it causes tunning issuses and air leaks. My last lrp i replaced the bearing every two gallons and it was an good motor. There was an problem when i tried to do that with this motor when the new engine came i took it apart and sealed it with rtv and when i put it back together i missalined the sleeve and and put the head on. At the time for replacement of bearings i can't get the sleeve out for the life of me. So i just ran it knowing it was going to cause an problem. sh$$ happens. I have tryed an new glow plug and fix an few problems and so far good.
 
I have dealt with some sticky sleeves, as a last resort you can use chop sticks or something like them. It isn't easy but you can cut many small pieces and drop then into the cylinder, with the flywheel adjust the piston so you can put as many into the ports as you can. Try and get just the thickness of the sleeves worth to grab, then use some big pliers to spin the flywheel and push the sleeve out. It may take a lot of force but the engine won't last long from this point on without doing a rebuild. Good luck.
 
thanks for the help. engine will be soon. right now its an running paper weight
 
LOL,
Heat and oil and sometimes the freezer help removing stubborn sleeves. I still remember the NS-25 I fought for 3 days....1/2 a toothbrush, 1 package of wire ties, 2 pop-sicle sticks, all in teeny tiny shreds in that engine before the sleeve finally gave up.
The freezer was the trick on that one.
LRP's usually come apart easy. 10-15 minutes @ 300F in the oven usually makes everything fall out...
 

RC Builds

Back
Top