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LRP .32 in HPI Savage

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B

Blubbergutts

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  1. Bashing
Help needed just put a lrp .32 in my savage xl can't get it started seems really tight also carb settings seem all over the place, I'm on a roto start using small drill already melted one back plate having a nightmare so when new roto start arrives I'll try again I'm sure when it's running all will be fine .
Thanks:\
 
Update , I've managed to start engine after putting new roto backplate on , my only question is its ticking over very high and apart from throttle trim is there any other way of slowing it down ???
 
Ticking over high?.....do you mean to say its idling high? If so you either have too wide of an idle gap and or your lsn is on the lean side
 
Pop off the air filter and apply the breaks there should be about a 1mm opening in the carb throat, there is an idle adjustment screw just like on any carburator,open the throttle before adjusting if adjustment is needed
 
Cornholio said:
If you haven't already, make sure you're heating up the engine before you try to start it. A cheap heat gun is a must have.
Click to expand...

A hair dryer works in a pinch also. I couldn't get my LRP.30 to pull start at all until pre heating it to almost op temp!
 
Got it running perfect today done 5 tanks running in great engine idles great had to adjust abit on controller , runs great can feel talk in engine..
What the best way to proceed next with fine tuning or does it need more time running in for best results....

---------- Post added at 4:46 PM ---------- Previous post was at 4:45 PM ----------

Temps running at about 100 at mo
 
Blubbergutts said:
idles great had to adjust abit on controller ,

Temps running at about 100 at mo
Click to expand...
I assume your idle was increased by the trim if you lowered it via the trim?

For what it's worth, I'd recommend against setting your idle with your trim. What can happen is you end up dragging your brakes or when you break/release your RPMs are going down and up, etc. ;-) You might consider putting everything back to neutral, and then adjust your idle via the idle-stop screw. Carb openings are typically quite high at factory settings so it's easier to start.

Also, I like to adjust my idle (again via the screw) as the last piece of tuning for the simple fact your LSN is going to affect your idle drastically so I just leave the idle alone until I've got my HSN/LSN where I want....then I lay down the idle (again, via the screw). ;-) If you do it before you tune, your idle is going to go right back up once you start leaning the bottom end.....coupled with the fact your trim is off, etc. etc. it can get confusing (at least for a newbie like myself it does). ;-) I don't own an LRP so cannot speak specifically to how it should run, but I'm sure there are guys on here who own one that can tell you how to tune it. I hope this helps.
 
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+1 with nerd on the trim for adjustments on the trim for idle. Also did you state that it's only running 100 degrees in temp? I have broken about 3 Lrp engines once you get about 6-7 tanks ran through let it rip! I wasn't easy on my Lrp.30 at all after tank 7 and it's a beast. So far I got a buddy that has around 3 gallons on his with no problems at all minus we had to seal up his engine, and sometimes they can be a bear to start after they are warmed up because of the aluminum carb's. I really wish LRP would step up to an insulated carb!
 
If you are confident the hottest it's gotten is ~100 degrees....I'd start slowly leaning it a bit or something to get the temps up to ~200 before driving it too hard. I'd think that engine likes to run in the 280-290 range (just an assumption) but recommend going easy until you get consistent temps/performance. Also a lot of engines get better with age (like a fine wine). As noted, have no idea about this engine but I have engines that started to REALLY open up after 2-3 gallons.

I have three Losi 3.4 engines and did a test the other day with two of them. One that has ~four gallons on it, and one that has doesn't even have a gallon. Tested within same hour, same fuel, plug, pipe and needle settings (on the same carb). The older one kciked the youngster's ass. Good stuff! Sorry to talk about another engine - I was told we are not allowed to do that but doubt anyone would put a 3.4 in a Savage...although I bet it wouldn't do too bad--hell I have a little project for tomorrow now....ha ha--but I thought it was interesting regardless.
 
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Most agreed with nitro nerd if it hasn't been to a good break in temp of, at least 200-220 range most def take it easy on it. All the LRP's I have broken in and run seem to all operate at peak around 230-240 I never let my engine get any hotter than 265 but I have never had an issue with my temps on any of the Lrp's I have dealt with.
 
I did adjust the idle with the screw idles great now , ran about 6-7 tanks now 4 I just had wheels off ground just the odd blast on throttle the next two just driving up and down on a 1/4 -1/2 revs and temps getting up to 90-100 so just now starting to run it a big harder with a slight adjustment to HSN 1/8 at a time runs great it's a bit of a beast can feal the power already, always starts first time to good engine better than the k5.9 in my opinion ....
See how it goes.
 
You should really try to get your temps up to 200 by now. I doubt your doing much keeping it in the 90-100 range. You are confident about that temp? I say that because often when I break in engines and let them just idle some during the first tank the temps get to 140-150 within a few minutes just idling. Probably could not keep an engine at 90-100 if I tried (especially a .32). ;-)
 
I'm going to start tunning it next week end my be earlier if I get time starting with the HSN , try and get those temps up a bit ,it seams to be running ok idles good I agree with you need to get those temps up abit it's running a bit rich a moment ......

---------- Post added at 7:24 PM ---------- Previous post was at 7:21 PM ----------

Yeh Celsius you guys are using Fahrenheit sorry, I've changed temp gun settings now..
 

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