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LRP .28 piston + rod? Where can I order ?
- Thread starter dj_sparky
- Start date
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Scrogg
Hardcore RCTalk User
http://stores.ebay.com/DollarHobbyz...018QQ_sidZ13736628QQ_trksidZp4634Q2ec0Q2em322
You sure it needs a piston and sleeve? A lot of times a new rod and bearings are all that is needed.
You sure it needs a piston and sleeve? A lot of times a new rod and bearings are all that is needed.
2revo1maxx
Hardcore RCTalk User
Leaking where? If you can hear some 'blow-by' with the exhaust off then that's normal. If it seems to have compression and runs decent then it's probably ok.
- Thread starter
- #6
It has very little resistance when I push it upwards, and I can clearly hear air leaking out. Besides that, it won't start once it hits 50 degrees celcius, which is very low. It won't idle, and I've had a bunch of problems with it. Haven't been able to run it more than a few seconds before it died and then refused to start, which is why I took it out in the first place. I have another post on this board asking for help.
Kind of odd, cause the previous owner said he only used it for about 1.4 gallons. I can't believe the engines break this easily, or that people are so wreckless. I've bought a couple of used engines and cars, and I've run into this problem a couple of times. I mean, what the heck are people thinking?
I've had a Kyosho Mad Force with stock engine for 10 years, and even though I haven't driven it constantly, I've driven it very often. Today it runs even better than before. And this engine isn't exactly one of the best (.21 CXP standard Kyosho with the old Mad Force.) Why and how do people wreck their engines so easily?
How hard is it to keep it below 90 celcius, have a decent idle to let it cool off?!?!?!
Kind of odd, cause the previous owner said he only used it for about 1.4 gallons. I can't believe the engines break this easily, or that people are so wreckless. I've bought a couple of used engines and cars, and I've run into this problem a couple of times. I mean, what the heck are people thinking?
I've had a Kyosho Mad Force with stock engine for 10 years, and even though I haven't driven it constantly, I've driven it very often. Today it runs even better than before. And this engine isn't exactly one of the best (.21 CXP standard Kyosho with the old Mad Force.) Why and how do people wreck their engines so easily?
How hard is it to keep it below 90 celcius, have a decent idle to let it cool off?!?!?!
- Thread starter
- #7
And, I assumed, that with the pipe off so you can look into the engine chamber, push the piston upwards, and if you hear or see air bubbles and hear it leaking, it needs a new piston and sleeve atleast. Is this wrong?
Scrogg
Hardcore RCTalk User
Some blow by is minimal. 1.4 gallons, the seller lied too you or really does not know how to tune. That engine should still be tight after that little bit of fuel. My Z28 did not loose mechanical pinch until 2 gallons. THen it started to really scream. 5 gallons it was still perfect.
Send the piston and sleeve to http://www.rayaracing.com/
Check out the rod condition and bearings too.
Send the piston and sleeve to http://www.rayaracing.com/
Check out the rod condition and bearings too.
- Thread starter
- #9
So are you saying that even though I can hear air leaking out/bubbles forming in the exhaust port of the engine, it could still run perfectly? That has no effect on the performance on it or the compression? I thought that meant that the compression was gone.
If it has bad blow-by and dies when it gets warm, it is done and needs a re-pinch or new piston and sleeve set. 90% of engines sold as used usually have that 1 miracle gallon that put's 3-6 times the wear on the engine some how lol.
MotoGod
Hardcore RCTalk User
Ain't that the truth! lol I bought 3 of those miracle "1 gallon" engines last year...they all lasted @ another half gallon before needing a pinch and/or bearings.
2revo1maxx
Hardcore RCTalk User
No offense to anyone, but buying a used engine is like buying 'reconditioned' condoms 
IMO. I've thought about it before, but it's too easy for someone to screw up the break-in and sell it on ebay. I can't believe some of the bidding on these things too.....Sheesh.
IMO. I've thought about it before, but it's too easy for someone to screw up the break-in and sell it on ebay. I can't believe some of the bidding on these things too.....Sheesh.- Thread starter
- #13
What does repinching/needs new "pinch" mean?
And I just recently got into buying used cars/engines -- and QUICKLY learned that most, like 90%, don't know how to tune. To ruin an engine in 1.4 gallon you would have to WANT to ruin it. If you ruin it that fast, you will OBVIOUSLY hear lots of weird bogging and odd engine noises and such, let alone NO smoke whatsoever I'm guessing (Which should send up a red flag pretty darn fast, even if you are inexperienced.). You'd think that person would consult with a forum or a nitro guidebook or the manual or something then.
I've barely started tuning after fixing all the used cars and fixing up old ones. The way I do it is once it hits a high temperature, I let it cool off, tune it down and listen to the sound and take it from there. And I don't even know that much about tuning -- it's my father who likes doing that. It's better to run at an OK temperature, than right at the edge. But gotta have some kick to it.
Had a car yesterday that started bogging like crazy once I leaned it in just a quarter round, would barely start. Turned it back, then temp was OK (Lower than usual.) and it drove crazy.
And if I find a good quality used nitro engine very cheap, I buy it. If it has a problem, I just buy a new piston/sleeve. Engines are insanely expensive here in Norway. 1 for the price of 2 in the US. Time to start ordering from the US I guess, if I run into any more problems with used engines. Getting quite sick of this. I have gotten a fair deal of usable engines though. (All though, usually on a car -- a standalone used engine seems to suffer much more than an engine on a used car. Guessing a lot of people assume, or "want" to think that it's just a tuning problem and sell it off.)
Piston/sleeve set for LRP .28 costs 169$ in Norway though (Which is twice as much as a regular piston/sleeve set for these size engines in Norway.). Which is the price of a new engine in the US. Apparently, the seller who carried this also said that LRP was half off at his store, for 305$. lol. (Common price in Norway though.)
And I just recently got into buying used cars/engines -- and QUICKLY learned that most, like 90%, don't know how to tune. To ruin an engine in 1.4 gallon you would have to WANT to ruin it. If you ruin it that fast, you will OBVIOUSLY hear lots of weird bogging and odd engine noises and such, let alone NO smoke whatsoever I'm guessing (Which should send up a red flag pretty darn fast, even if you are inexperienced.). You'd think that person would consult with a forum or a nitro guidebook or the manual or something then.
I've barely started tuning after fixing all the used cars and fixing up old ones. The way I do it is once it hits a high temperature, I let it cool off, tune it down and listen to the sound and take it from there. And I don't even know that much about tuning -- it's my father who likes doing that. It's better to run at an OK temperature, than right at the edge. But gotta have some kick to it.
Had a car yesterday that started bogging like crazy once I leaned it in just a quarter round, would barely start. Turned it back, then temp was OK (Lower than usual.) and it drove crazy.
And if I find a good quality used nitro engine very cheap, I buy it. If it has a problem, I just buy a new piston/sleeve. Engines are insanely expensive here in Norway. 1 for the price of 2 in the US. Time to start ordering from the US I guess, if I run into any more problems with used engines. Getting quite sick of this. I have gotten a fair deal of usable engines though. (All though, usually on a car -- a standalone used engine seems to suffer much more than an engine on a used car. Guessing a lot of people assume, or "want" to think that it's just a tuning problem and sell it off.)
Piston/sleeve set for LRP .28 costs 169$ in Norway though (Which is twice as much as a regular piston/sleeve set for these size engines in Norway.). Which is the price of a new engine in the US. Apparently, the seller who carried this also said that LRP was half off at his store, for 305$. lol. (Common price in Norway though.)
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