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Low speed needle
- Thread starter baldie
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- Thread starter
- #22
Rolex said:
Hey Rolex,
It started on the first try which was great. Now it still stutters really bad on acceleration. Also my trigger is about 1/2 pulled before it even starts gradually moving. Also it takes about 5+ seconds to cut off when I squeeze the fuel line.
I also want to mentin I'm only on my 4th tank of the break in process, if that matters at all. I have my laptop outside with me so hopefully we can get this issue fixed fast. Thanks..
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Okay, good news so far.
Lean your LSN another 1/16 turn in. You are very close to where it should be now.
The stuttering is because it's still too rich, and leaning the LSN will improve the low end takeoff.
When it's warmed up, if it's still a little stubborn on takeoff, lean it a hair more. Don't go too far, you don't want ripping performance out of it yet, just smooth takeoff and acceleration.
Let me know, when it's warmed up, and the low end is good, how it runs when you ease into WOT.
Lean your LSN another 1/16 turn in. You are very close to where it should be now.
The stuttering is because it's still too rich, and leaning the LSN will improve the low end takeoff.
When it's warmed up, if it's still a little stubborn on takeoff, lean it a hair more. Don't go too far, you don't want ripping performance out of it yet, just smooth takeoff and acceleration.
Let me know, when it's warmed up, and the low end is good, how it runs when you ease into WOT.
- Thread starter
- #24
Okay..lemme try
Okay Rolex...worked like a charm. Bad stuttering is gone and pinching the fuel line only takes a little over 2 seconds to cut off....whats next?? At full throttle I can't really tell if it shifts into 2nd gear though.
Okay Rolex...worked like a charm. Bad stuttering is gone and pinching the fuel line only takes a little over 2 seconds to cut off....whats next?? At full throttle I can't really tell if it shifts into 2nd gear though.
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Try WOT, and see how it runs at high speed, then get back to me.
Make several passes at WOT to get it up to normal running temp, and let me know if it sputters with full throttle. You want to see some smoke.
When it's up to good temp, after several WOT passes, pinch off the line again and tell me how long it takes to shut off.
Do you have a temp gauge with you?
Make several passes at WOT to get it up to normal running temp, and let me know if it sputters with full throttle. You want to see some smoke.
When it's up to good temp, after several WOT passes, pinch off the line again and tell me how long it takes to shut off.
Do you have a temp gauge with you?
- Thread starter
- #26
Rolex said:
So just pull the trigger full right....is that what you mean my WOT? Yes I do have a temp gauge.
Okay...made several passes on WOT. I made 2 temp readings, 1st was 211F and the 2nd was 230F. No sputtering at all and I do see smoke. I also see a little smoke coming from the head and see a little sizzling liquid around the glow plug. I takes about 2 seconds to shut off after pinching. It does still have just a slight stutter at gradual acceleration. What next?
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Okay, your running temp for break in is just fine.
As far as the sizzling, check to make sure the glow plug is tight.
Remove it, and check for any dirt on either side of the gasket and the bottom of the plug to make sure it's getting a good seal.
The pinch test is a little on the lean side. Richen the LSN slightly, then just drive it according to the break in procedure. Do several more runs with it, and check the temp. Keep it at about 240. It might start to run a little cooler after richening the LSN, so if need be, lean the HSN slightly to keep it around 240 or so.
Everything is sounding good right now. Get back to me after another tank.
As far as the sizzling, check to make sure the glow plug is tight.
Remove it, and check for any dirt on either side of the gasket and the bottom of the plug to make sure it's getting a good seal.
The pinch test is a little on the lean side. Richen the LSN slightly, then just drive it according to the break in procedure. Do several more runs with it, and check the temp. Keep it at about 240. It might start to run a little cooler after richening the LSN, so if need be, lean the HSN slightly to keep it around 240 or so.
Everything is sounding good right now. Get back to me after another tank.
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Break in blues.
A lot of engines go through a stubborn period, either during break in, or shortly afterwards.
It can get frustrating, but they all get through it. You just have to deal with it.
Ease into the trigger to reach WOT, don't just pull full trigger.
When it stalls, allow it to cool down before restarting, and it will start much quicker.
A lot of engines go through a stubborn period, either during break in, or shortly afterwards.
It can get frustrating, but they all get through it. You just have to deal with it.
Ease into the trigger to reach WOT, don't just pull full trigger.
When it stalls, allow it to cool down before restarting, and it will start much quicker.
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It depends on what kind of surface you are on. It might also be wheel alignment. Toe in or no toe at all, front or rear. Different cars use different setups. That's something you'll have to check your manual for.
Also, make sure you have fresh batteries in the Rx. Usually, by the time everything is set up, and you're almost done with the break in, the Rx batts are fading.
Also, make sure you have fresh batteries in the Rx. Usually, by the time everything is set up, and you're almost done with the break in, the Rx batts are fading.
- Thread starter
- #32
So far so good. I Just finished my 5th tank of break in and have already tuned for performance. However sometimes the engine cuts off after idling down from full throttle. Should I adjust something? I know you said this is normal.
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I'm glad to hear that all went well.
You might just have to raise the idle a bit. Again, do it with the trim set all the way down. When it's been raised, hit the brake a few times just to make sure it doesn't close it down any more.
Don't be looking for a slow puttering idle. The faster it idles, the more stable it is. Keep it just low enough so that it doesn't chatter the clutch or make the car creep forward.
You might just have to raise the idle a bit. Again, do it with the trim set all the way down. When it's been raised, hit the brake a few times just to make sure it doesn't close it down any more.
Don't be looking for a slow puttering idle. The faster it idles, the more stable it is. Keep it just low enough so that it doesn't chatter the clutch or make the car creep forward.
Hermanator
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Rolex you are the man!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You are the reason forums work. Thanks for having the patience with Baldie. Some others would have told Baldie use the search But you didn't. That took alot of patience and for that I thank you. I could have used you when I was a newbee. 5 years and counting and I try to do the samething you just did which is anwswer all threads no matter how many times the subject has come up. 
to Rolex
to Rolex
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Thank you, Hermanator.
It can get frustrating for a newbie since sometimes the tiniest adjustment in the wrong direction, or with the wrong needle just makes things worse. I had no help when I got my first nitro truck. I bought the last one in stock when the hobby shop went out of business, and there was no one else I could go to for help. I learned the hard way, through trial and error, till I finally got it right.
Now that there's another LHS nearby, I've become the "Go to" guy at the track.
Engines at the track take about 1/2 hour or so, till I know everything is right, but on the forum, it's usually 2 days.
I'm in the process of writing up a troubleshooting guide with all the tips and tricks to tune, and what to look for, and that might save a lot of time if they print it and refer to it while breaking in or tuning.
Satisfaction guaranteed, or double your post count back.
It can get frustrating for a newbie since sometimes the tiniest adjustment in the wrong direction, or with the wrong needle just makes things worse. I had no help when I got my first nitro truck. I bought the last one in stock when the hobby shop went out of business, and there was no one else I could go to for help. I learned the hard way, through trial and error, till I finally got it right.
Now that there's another LHS nearby, I've become the "Go to" guy at the track.
Engines at the track take about 1/2 hour or so, till I know everything is right, but on the forum, it's usually 2 days.
I'm in the process of writing up a troubleshooting guide with all the tips and tricks to tune, and what to look for, and that might save a lot of time if they print it and refer to it while breaking in or tuning.
Satisfaction guaranteed, or double your post count back.
- Thread starter
- #36
Yeah thanks again Rolex. Other than the cutting off after full throttle problem, my problems are pretty much solved with your help. I will be sure to raise the idle speed just a tad as you advised and I'll see if that helps. I'm pretty sure your troubleshooting guide will help all newbies out there. I'll probably refer to it. I've owned two nitro cars so far a buggy and this tmaxx and both had problems. I know I'm still new but after Rolex's help and this entire forum, I'm starting to get the hang of tuning an engine. I mean there are times when you will have to adjust things different than what the manual said, as I had to. Riching and Leaning totally confused me at first, which is probably what brought me alot of my problems. My LHS because they charge for troubleshooting problems on weekends. I'm not sure if thats normal. They told me that the best time to come is on the weekedays when its not busy and they don't charge a fee. I find that very inconvenient in my opinion because not everyone has time during the week. I mean weekends is pretty much when everyone plays right? Well for me at least. If it wasn't for RCNitroTalk.com, I think I would have given up on the RC Hobby after my first car. Thanks again Rolex and I will let you know sometime this week or next weekend about the idle adjustment and if it solves the cutting off issue. :smoke:
that does suck that they charge for help on weekends....are they just packed w/ customers....cause if they're short handed maybe you can pick up a part time hobby/job there after learning tuning from the master here on rcnt......
- Thread starter
- #38
I don't think I'm that big of an expert yet as far as to help people with tuning issues. I still get puzzled with my own tuning problems sometimes. Maybe I should just refer everyone there to rcnitrotalk.
Just use a thin screw driver, prefreably a tuning driver. I just use a standard screw driver, you wont get a perfect shot but you gotta make due with what you have so just get it in there some how and do your business.
Evan
Evan