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lightning stadium

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B

bourney2006

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does anyone know the facotry needle settings for the power factory (standadr engine in the lightning stadium RR) also what hop-up's (if any) would you recommend?
 
the high speed needle setting is 3 1/2 turns from closed
the low speed needle setting is 3 1/2 turns form closed
midrange needle setting is 3 1/4 turns from closed
i hope this infromation helps u? :)

if you haven't got the manual theres a link for you below
http://www.hbeurope.com/manuals/hb55003.pdf

(u need Adobe to view it)
 
Last edited:
its ok I hope that u get your car up and runing and tune it

is that your first nitro car?
 
no i have being racing nitro for about 2 years and racing carpet for 4 years, not long as I'm only 15. I just needed factory settings because i broke the shaft and con rod and when stripping the engine down my dad pulled the LSN needle straight out of the carb and now it spins in the barrel, so i have used the carb off my old force engine.
 
cool I'm 14 iv'e only started racing last year racing my savage x and a couple of race's with my rs4 3 evo.

so is your engine fine and have you tuned it yet?
 
well i thought it was fine but took it out and roto-start had a prob turning it over, so i tried to turn the flywheel with my hand to check it felt right and the piston keeps getting stuck at the top of the piston liner so going to wet and dry it (like sand paper but ded fine), cool I've never talked to a racer around my own agethe youngest i know is 16
 
First off, the piston gets stuck at the top because the engine is not broken in yet. Some engines still do it after break in when they are cold. That tightness is needed to seal the combustion chamber, since the piston doesn't have rings. If you sand, etc the sides of the piston/sleeve (or most any internal engine parts), you most likely will not have a running engine.
 
does it feel stiff to turn the fly wheel cause thats what mine does and iv'e broke the engine in like the manual said.
 
well my dad used wet and dry on the back of the liner to get it to go in the crankcase easier and when the piston reaches the top it slightly pushes the liner up. The engine has had over 1 gallon its just a new con rod. When the head is bolted on it turns normal until the top then it gets too tight and when it does finally turn something clicks, like the head is hitting the glow plug holder. I know about combustion etc and belive me this is getting stuck, the roto-start can't turn it over and its well broken in.

Dan how many tanks has your engine had? they are still quite stiff for a while.

i dont think its the liner at all tbh. I just founf out that the piston is hitting the glow plug holder and once it reaches there it wont budge at all, so maybe my con rod is too long? also this is the standard hot bodies .26 engine and i used a foce .21 crank in it does that make a difference?
 
iv'e had it for half a month, but it only get tight when the piston get's to the top of engine, i don't know how many tankes its had lol.
 
i found out that i need another shim on it engine to stop the piston hitting the glow plug holder maybe you need another too. ATM i have 2 shims (standard for most engines) just buy another shim and it should be better but dont put too many on as every shim you put on you reduce the horsepower and visa versa
 

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