Kyosho beetle rear trailing arms

[matt791]

Hey guys iv recently built a kyosho beetle and absolutely love it. The build quality was awesome and it runs great.
Iv noticed that that the rear trailing arm pins tend to slide out and has led to the dogbones being thrown.
Luckily iv managed to find them on both occasions but was wondering if anyone has any advice about keeping them in place?

I was thinking of putting a couple of small rubber o rings on them to stop them slipping but if anyone else has any ideas I'd appreciate it.

Thanks in advance

 

[bill_delong]

experiment with cutting various lengths of fuel tubing to fill the space inside each out drive to get the dog bones as close to center as possible to prevent them from popping out

https://www.amainhobbies.com/dubro-nitro-line-silicone-fuel-tubing-blue-61cm-dub2235/p13003

basically copy this idea here:

 

[matt791]

experiment with cutting various lengths of fuel tubing to fill the space inside each out drive to get the dog bones as close to center as possible to prevent them from popping out

https://www.amainhobbies.com/dubro-nitro-line-silicone-fuel-tubing-blue-61cm-dub2235/p13003

basically copy this idea here:

View attachment 170146

Thanks ill give that a try

 

[bill_delong]

the fuel tubing hack has been around for ages, though this is why many designs have switched to CVD's to eliminate the alignment problem

https://www.amainhobbies.com/kyosho-universal-swing-shaft-set-2-kyontw001/p1339449

Not sure if the bettle is based on the DBX or the RB5 so double check compatibility before considering this upgrade:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/kyosho-optima-universal-swing-driveshafts-2-kyootw125c/p1502493

 

[STONER RC]

KThanks ill give that a try

Whats up.. that's one of the biggest pain in the as*. Haven the dog bones pop out while your giving it hell. But that's different then your haven.
The problem your haven is differnt with the a arm pins falling out. And then the dog bones fall out. Since the A arm slipped off the pins.

What size are the pins 3mm? I did this with my Xmaxx. You can pick up a set of threw bolts same size as the pins. With hex heads and locking nuts. To replace those frigging pins.

And that will stop the rear arms from coming off. Since now you will have a nut amd bolt and not those pins that can slide out.

Both your guys ideas will work.
O-rings, fuel tubbing will keep the dog bones in the drive cups. And stop them from sliding out.

You would only want to put the
o-ring/fuel tubing in the inner drive cup. Coming from the transmission. Dont want to put them in the outter cup with your wheel attached to it. Might bind up your wheel.

One more suggestion used in the original RC10 pan cars. You can take a Bic pen. And remove the spring from inside. And cut small pc off. And put that in the cup then the dog bone. That will keep pressure against the dog bones keeping it pushed into the outter cups.. happy bashing

 

[bill_delong]

oh wow that brings back some memories, I forgot all about those springs in the outdrives, ha!

https://img2.associatedelectrics.co.../RC10_Classic_Kit/manual_RC10Classic_2013.pdf

 

[STONER RC]

experiment with cutting various lengths of fuel tubing to fill the space inside each out drive to get the dog bones as close to center as possible to prevent them from popping out

https://www.amainhobbies.com/dubro-nitro-line-silicone-fuel-tubing-blue-61cm-dub2235/p13003

basically copy this idea here:

View attachment 170146

You would only want to put anything in the inner drive cups. Not in the outter cups. There's a chance the outter cup will bind up. Better to add it to the inner cups..

oh wow that brings back some memories, I forgot all about those springs in the outdrives, ha!

Yeah buddy

You would only want to put anything in the inner drive cups. Not in the outter cups. There's a chance the outter cup will bind up. Better to add it to the inner cups..

Yeah buddy

Old school all the way...

 

[bill_delong]

You would only want to put anything in the inner drive cups. Not in the outter cups. There's a chance the outter cup will bind up. Better to add it to the inner cups..

hard to be certain, kinda need to try different things out, on my Nanda NRX10 I had to place a different length section of tubing on both ends to get the plunge just right

I do agree there needs to be some wiggle room to account for rebound when then car has bottomed out, but that's all you need to check for proper spacing

I got tired of losing/cutting tubing that I eventually upgraded to CVD's on every car I ran going forward.

 

[STONER RC]

oh wow that brings back some memories, I forgot all about those springs in the outdrives, ha!

But your a arms are falling off due to those crappy pins kyosho uses and other companies. I'm sure they are 3mm pins. Best bet is throw out the pins. And threw bolt them. Will never loose a rear arm again.

I used these on my Xmaxx since they had pins for attaching the A arms. Which is a bad idea honestly. Carriage bolts or threw bolts. Would be your best bet. To keeping the arms in place..

hard to be certain, kinda need to try different things out, on my Nanda NRX10 I had to place a different length section of tubing on both ends to get the plunge just right

I do agree there needs to be some wiggle room to account for rebound when then car has bottomed out, but that's all you need to check for proper spacing

I got tired of losing/cutting tubing that I eventually upgraded to CVD's on every car I ran going forward.

I personally would only put spacers in the inner cups. Like you said dint want then to bind up during travel.

That's another reason the springs work a little better. Don't need both side done. The spring will push bones into the outter cup.

You could always pick up a set of longer bones that fit better. Just messure what they are. And go a few mm longer. For a tighter fit in the cups..