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kind of dumd question but I'm a noob
- Thread starter newrcer
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Crunkvilletx
RCTalk Talkaholic
Before you run it check everything out make sure all screws are tight and everything is working. After you run use after run oil. Put some down the carb and where the glow plug goes and turn the motor over a few times. After every few run clean and re oil your air filter.
ThunderTiger
Hardcore RCTalk User
Here is what i normally do, its a bit of a long list, but i have never had to go home early from a run because of something trivial like a lost nut/bolt/ washer or damaged fuel line etc etc.
BEFORE you run,
1) do a radio check; turn on the transmitter (controller) and the receiver (the switch near the battery). Check the servos for operation, check the linkages are all ok and not loose or binding. This also gives an indication if the battery or batteries are flat and need charging, either in the transmitter or if the Receiver (Rx) battery or batteries (if using aa batteries) are flat.
2) Check that your failsafe unit (FSU) works. You can do this by turning on the transmitter, then the receiver. Open the throttle wide while the engine is not running, then switch off the transmitter while holding the throttle open via the Transmitter. When u turn off the transmitter, the FSU should kick in and close the throttle. When the radio is turned back on, it should switch out and allow normal use of the throttle.
3) check all nuts/bolts to see if any are loose. Check that the wheel nuts are tight, a lost wheel nut can end a day of fun early and leave you on the sidelines while your friends continue to run.
4) Check the operation of the suspension for any binding or loose/missing nbolts/nuts. Check the shocks for missing spring retainers/leaking seals or other damage that may cause abnormal operation.
5) check exhaust seals between header pipe and exhaust pipe. a split or damaged seal here, can cause havoc with engine tuning as this affects the pressure waves returning to the engine and the pressure going to the fuel tank.
6) check that your air filter is zip tied on and that the elements are clean.
7) check all fuel lines for damage. if any nicks/cuts or holes are found CHANGE IT OUT. If you have one, check the seals on the fuel filter. A Damaged seal can allow an air leak, causing air bubles in the fuel line and erratic running. Check the pressure line from the exhaust to the top of the fuel tank for the same things. IF IN DOUBT, CHANGE IT OUT
8) inspect wheels and tyres for damage before you run. If any damage is found, such as a tear in the tyre or a tyre leaving the rim (coming unglued) sort it out before running or switch to a spare set of wheels that you know are ok.
9) Check the driveline (driveshafts, diffs, clutch bell and spur gear for damage. If in doubt, wait and have it checked, or resolve the issue before you run. PREVENTION IS BETTER THAN CURE.
10) Check you glow ignitors work and Check you have spare glowplugs, as these can and do "Blow" at any time.
11) Check the engine starts before you leave home. Nothing is more3 frustrating than travelling to where you run, only to find that your engine will not start.
12) Check that you are carrying the few tools that you need and some spare nuts / bolts/ washers to suit your rig as well as some thread locking compound. At least if you lose a nut/bolt/washer, u can get it sortwed "in the field" and continue running.
AFTER you run
1) As soon as you stop running a nitro engine put the piston at bottom dead centre (BDC).
2) Drain any remaining fuel from the fuel tank and either dispose of it, or store it in an airtight container (away from the new fuel in the fuel container) to be used on the next run.
3) having allowed the engine to cool down (with the piston at BDC) remove the air filter, open the carb wide open by hand and drop a few drops of after run oil (ARO) through the carb opening and into the crankshaft. Then, (and having removed any debris from around it before doing so) remove the glowplug and drop a few more drops of ARO into the cylinder. Re-fit the glowplug and, once this is done, refit the air filter. Next, turn the engine over a few times either on your starter box/rotostart/easy start unit or by hand with the pullstart. The use of ARO helps dispel any moisture from the engine and preserve its life by deterring oxidisation (rusting) of any of the componants inside. The act of turning the engine over will help spread the ARO around the engine a little and help towards dispelling that moisture.
4) check all nuts/bolts to see if any are loose or missing. Replace/tighten as neccesary using threadlock
5) Check the operation of the suspension for any binding or loose/missing bolts/nuts. Check the shocks for missing spring retainers/leaking seals or other damage that may cause abnormal operation.
6) check exhaust seals between header pipe and exhaust pipe. if any damage is detected, replace the seal immediately and before the next run.
7) check that your air filter is zip tied on and that the elements are clean.
8) check all fuel lines for damage. if any nicks/cuts or holes are found CHANGE IT OUT. If you have one, check the filter for dirt/debris and also check the seal on the fuel filter. A Damaged seal can allow an air leak, causing air bubles in the fuel line and erratic running. Check the pressure line from the exhaust to the top of the fuel tank for the same things. IF IN DOUBT, CHANGE IT OUT. Next, check the o-ring on the fuel tank. If this is damaged replace it before the next run, it will allow air to seep into the tank and again, cause problems with air bubbles in the fuel lines thus causing erratic running.
9) inspect wheels and tyres for damage . If any damage is found, such as a tear in the tyre or a tyre leaving the rim (coming unglued) sort it out. Either repair the lifting tyre, or replace a torn one. If a rim is broken, DO NOT use it, replace it before your next run.
10) Check for other, general damage. If any is detectyed, sort it out if it needs to be. If a shock tower is bent, it could well be straightened out until a replacement can be fitted.
Hopefully, that should see you ok with every run. it seems a lot, but these checks take only 5 or 6 minutes at the most and can be the difference between a trouble free run and one plagued with problems from the very start.
BEFORE you run,
1) do a radio check; turn on the transmitter (controller) and the receiver (the switch near the battery). Check the servos for operation, check the linkages are all ok and not loose or binding. This also gives an indication if the battery or batteries are flat and need charging, either in the transmitter or if the Receiver (Rx) battery or batteries (if using aa batteries) are flat.
2) Check that your failsafe unit (FSU) works. You can do this by turning on the transmitter, then the receiver. Open the throttle wide while the engine is not running, then switch off the transmitter while holding the throttle open via the Transmitter. When u turn off the transmitter, the FSU should kick in and close the throttle. When the radio is turned back on, it should switch out and allow normal use of the throttle.
3) check all nuts/bolts to see if any are loose. Check that the wheel nuts are tight, a lost wheel nut can end a day of fun early and leave you on the sidelines while your friends continue to run.
4) Check the operation of the suspension for any binding or loose/missing nbolts/nuts. Check the shocks for missing spring retainers/leaking seals or other damage that may cause abnormal operation.
5) check exhaust seals between header pipe and exhaust pipe. a split or damaged seal here, can cause havoc with engine tuning as this affects the pressure waves returning to the engine and the pressure going to the fuel tank.
6) check that your air filter is zip tied on and that the elements are clean.
7) check all fuel lines for damage. if any nicks/cuts or holes are found CHANGE IT OUT. If you have one, check the seals on the fuel filter. A Damaged seal can allow an air leak, causing air bubles in the fuel line and erratic running. Check the pressure line from the exhaust to the top of the fuel tank for the same things. IF IN DOUBT, CHANGE IT OUT
8) inspect wheels and tyres for damage before you run. If any damage is found, such as a tear in the tyre or a tyre leaving the rim (coming unglued) sort it out before running or switch to a spare set of wheels that you know are ok.
9) Check the driveline (driveshafts, diffs, clutch bell and spur gear for damage. If in doubt, wait and have it checked, or resolve the issue before you run. PREVENTION IS BETTER THAN CURE.
10) Check you glow ignitors work and Check you have spare glowplugs, as these can and do "Blow" at any time.
11) Check the engine starts before you leave home. Nothing is more3 frustrating than travelling to where you run, only to find that your engine will not start.
12) Check that you are carrying the few tools that you need and some spare nuts / bolts/ washers to suit your rig as well as some thread locking compound. At least if you lose a nut/bolt/washer, u can get it sortwed "in the field" and continue running.
AFTER you run
1) As soon as you stop running a nitro engine put the piston at bottom dead centre (BDC).
2) Drain any remaining fuel from the fuel tank and either dispose of it, or store it in an airtight container (away from the new fuel in the fuel container) to be used on the next run.
3) having allowed the engine to cool down (with the piston at BDC) remove the air filter, open the carb wide open by hand and drop a few drops of after run oil (ARO) through the carb opening and into the crankshaft. Then, (and having removed any debris from around it before doing so) remove the glowplug and drop a few more drops of ARO into the cylinder. Re-fit the glowplug and, once this is done, refit the air filter. Next, turn the engine over a few times either on your starter box/rotostart/easy start unit or by hand with the pullstart. The use of ARO helps dispel any moisture from the engine and preserve its life by deterring oxidisation (rusting) of any of the componants inside. The act of turning the engine over will help spread the ARO around the engine a little and help towards dispelling that moisture.
4) check all nuts/bolts to see if any are loose or missing. Replace/tighten as neccesary using threadlock
5) Check the operation of the suspension for any binding or loose/missing bolts/nuts. Check the shocks for missing spring retainers/leaking seals or other damage that may cause abnormal operation.
6) check exhaust seals between header pipe and exhaust pipe. if any damage is detected, replace the seal immediately and before the next run.
7) check that your air filter is zip tied on and that the elements are clean.
8) check all fuel lines for damage. if any nicks/cuts or holes are found CHANGE IT OUT. If you have one, check the filter for dirt/debris and also check the seal on the fuel filter. A Damaged seal can allow an air leak, causing air bubles in the fuel line and erratic running. Check the pressure line from the exhaust to the top of the fuel tank for the same things. IF IN DOUBT, CHANGE IT OUT. Next, check the o-ring on the fuel tank. If this is damaged replace it before the next run, it will allow air to seep into the tank and again, cause problems with air bubbles in the fuel lines thus causing erratic running.
9) inspect wheels and tyres for damage . If any damage is found, such as a tear in the tyre or a tyre leaving the rim (coming unglued) sort it out. Either repair the lifting tyre, or replace a torn one. If a rim is broken, DO NOT use it, replace it before your next run.
10) Check for other, general damage. If any is detectyed, sort it out if it needs to be. If a shock tower is bent, it could well be straightened out until a replacement can be fitted.
Hopefully, that should see you ok with every run. it seems a lot, but these checks take only 5 or 6 minutes at the most and can be the difference between a trouble free run and one plagued with problems from the very start.
Crunkvilletx
RCTalk Talkaholic
So if you check exactly everything you checked before your run after then why do you have to check again before you run again?
ThunderTiger
Hardcore RCTalk User
Its called the "better to be safe than sorry" routine.
It basically allows you the knowledge that nothing is wrong with your rig, and it is a good list to run by.
Further, it if you do the checks you know that there are no problems, you know you will have a "good" running session and you know that you are less likely to have problems. It is also "responsible" ownership of an RC rig to ensure all is well before you run and shows that you actually care enough about the rig to maintain it at its best.
I actually forgot to add that after running, it is best to charge your RX pak/change the rx batteries before you run again so that you know that it/they will not go flat on you after just a few short minutes of running.
It basically allows you the knowledge that nothing is wrong with your rig, and it is a good list to run by.
Further, it if you do the checks you know that there are no problems, you know you will have a "good" running session and you know that you are less likely to have problems. It is also "responsible" ownership of an RC rig to ensure all is well before you run and shows that you actually care enough about the rig to maintain it at its best.
I actually forgot to add that after running, it is best to charge your RX pak/change the rx batteries before you run again so that you know that it/they will not go flat on you after just a few short minutes of running.
Crunkvilletx
RCTalk Talkaholic
Ok just asking. I'm always looking over my rig and cleaning it. I clean and make sure everything is good about 70% and running the other 30%. Most people I see never clean and always bash untill it just sits somewhere.
ThunderTiger
Hardcore RCTalk User
cleaning a rig is important, it alerts you to any leaks/problems as they occur, not later on down the line. My EB4 buggies and my other rigs are spotlessly clean. They get stripped cleaned and rebuilt after EVERY run. It's just my way of doing things. Especially since i have them on permanent display in my lounge, unless of course, i am out running them. Other than that, to me at least, it is good practice to keep them clean so i know if any leaks occur and it makes it more pleasant when work needs doing because i do not get plastered in muck and oil etc.
And as to asking, "If you don't ask, you don't get" as my dad has always sais.
And as to asking, "If you don't ask, you don't get" as my dad has always sais.
onder2:
ThunderTiger
Hardcore RCTalk User
I ALWAYS use ARO whether a fuel states to use it or not, i prefer to protect the engine, not just let it sit there "wet" from running. whats more important ? the cost of fuel or protecting your engine ?
Whats more EXPENSIVE ? a new bottle of fuel or a new engine ? you do the math !
protect the ENGINE first i always say.
Whats more EXPENSIVE ? a new bottle of fuel or a new engine ? you do the math !
protect the ENGINE first i always say.
Crunkvilletx
RCTalk Talkaholic
I use it after every run 2 it only takes a few seconds to use it anyways.
ThunderTiger
Hardcore RCTalk User
not to mention it helps to protect the engine
