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Kazetsukai's FPV CrossRC Emo X2

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kazetsukai

RCTalk Member
Messages
26
Reaction score
54
Points
93
Location
Athens, TN
RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
  2. Crawling
Beginning of a build / mod thread for a CrossRC Emo X2 setup for long range FPV.

Look what arrived in the mail today....
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The Emo? Cross has some cool stuff, do keep us all in the loop here please...
Oh the mechanics are so cool. I loved there stuff just watching videos, espcially that watts linkage... even better in person.

I had a brushless Emo X (Wrangler type body) on order but a week after the order the supplier notified me they didn't carry them anymore. The Emo X2 (Cherokee type) has a brushed system, I have a Hobbywing R3 + 4274 combo on order for this one.

More unboxing... Dumbo controller:

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Nice little tool pack:

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Truck comes with the body wrapped, and well protected.

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Unwrapped:

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Overall the nicest body I've ever seen on any RC, by far, coming from mostly bashers with the exception of the TRX-6. And the light kit on this makes the TRX-6 look like a toy.
 
Planning the FPV mods I'll need to make to the body.

I spent a bit here looking for antenna alternatives. MY TRX-6 / XRT setups, I just butchered that body because it felt like a toy.

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Putting holes in the roof of this seems like a crime. This one, the camera goes in the cabin, and I'm hoping I can use some high gain internal PCB antennas that don't need to be mounted externally to preserve the look.

I do need to remove the driver for the camera, and to get access to the interior:
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The driver grips a steering wheel that can turn. I could put a micro servo on it and have it mimic steering.
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Additionally I could put some things in or on the dash, I've seen people put little compasses, volt meters, etc for instance.

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Here's a look at the lights.

The one thing that concerns me for this car is the size of the battery tray. I was hoping to put in two batteries even maybe, but that doesn't look like it will happen, with the body being so low and well fitting.

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For size comparison I threw in a Rlaarlo 4400mAh 3S pack made for an Omni-Terminator:

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And it fits with room to spare:

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I will need to be selective when looking for packs in the 6000-8000mAh range for this reason.

Lets take a peek at that light kit! First the DRLs you get when you power it on:
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Headlights (there are high beams, but it is hard to distinguish in photo) are a warm color, which preserves the look. You could be convinced they weren't LEDs if you didn't know better.

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There is also a flash/strobe mode. Rear:

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Turn signals flash and operate with steering, as well as reverse.

Given my experience with running the TRX-6 at night, for FPV at least brighter doesn't necessarily mean better. Really bright lights tend to cause the camera to just lower its exposure, as that light usually hits nearby foliage and obstacles rather than travelling where you need it. There is an optional light bar for this car which I'll probably add, but I have some confidence in these for night trekking out in the woods.
 
Found some good internal antennas, ordered those. Took the truck out on that 3S Rlaarlo battery to test it stock.

I think I figured out how I'm going to mount the air unit in the car, inside on the ceiling just over (and behind maybe) the driver, or somethere in the middle. This lets me run the needed cabling down to the camera. I need something a bit better than hot glue to stick that to the ceiling, the TRX-6 had a similar setup and the unit keeps falling under the hot sun.

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I test fit some other batteries I have on hand. A 5000mAh 3S from Traxxas did not fit, but a Spektrum 3200mAh did fit. I'm going to have to hunt a bit for that 7000+mAh spot I hope to be in.

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I setup the ground station for the video link, which is about as far as I can take the FPV stuff for now, until those antennas arrive. For the time being I put the R8FG on it, but I'm going to switch this setup to use FrSky TD receivers directly to the cars themselves. Earlier today I flashed firmware upgrades to all of the A8 minis, and configured their gimbals in prep for the FrSky move.

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Now while I give my thoughts on the stock electronics, lets size compare this to the TRX-6, this is something I couldn't find out on the internet for these CrossRC rigs.

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Wider with much higher ground clearance. Our lawn is a bit overgrown, and the TRX-6 with a Hobbywing R3 / 550-3300kv setup bogs down a bit in this environment. The X2 has a much easier time, with quite a bit less resistance.

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Wider and with more ground clearance, it is more stable out of the gate. The steering servo isn't horrible, but I will probably replace it regardless. There's no servo-saver, just a straight link to the left wheel. It will likely get a perfect pass servo here at some point after the R3 upgrade.

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Power wise, the stock electronics are again not horrible- but anyone familiar with brushless systems will be craving more, and the lack of a drag brake is also irritating coming from other systems. The R3 is likely to become standard kit for my rigs- I like the idea of the FOC 8IGHT but having bluetooth right there to tweak or configure is pretty nice, as are the extra leads to change parameters on the fly.

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In conclusion I would recommend the brushed version for someone planning to put their own brushless system in. But anything you can't get yourself in trouble with will be limited in the fun department. That being said, brushless versions are difficult to find for the X2. The X3 and X5 however, I think it might be standard.

Edit: The truck is setup for trailing, much less for crawling. The transmission has a good split- low gear is very usable for lower speed approaches and high gives you quite a bit of pep. I would like to see this on 4S with maybe a couple more teeth on the pinion.

That's it for today, I'll probably make more progress when some of the stuff arrives Tuesday.
 
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Well, I had hoped to dive in to some FPV conversion today, but I ordered the wrong antennas. So now the right ones are on their way, and I opted for the Hobbywing Axe R3 / 4274-2000kv upgrade instead.

I recorded the whole thing, if anyone is interested I can edit it a bit for upload.

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This is a drop-in replacement- same pinion fits, can is the same diameter, holes line up, and original screws match. It actually looks like the 775 that was on there previously had a (red) adapter plate on it:
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But the 4274 had no need for it.

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Hex sizes needed: 1.5mm, 2.0mm, 2.5mm. Mostly 2.0mm.

To swap the motor, you have to remove the cover to the right of it, which means removing the transmission for this upgrade. Not a ton of work! Remove four 2.0mm screws (two under, two through the chassis rails) that hold it down, the driveshafts, the gear switch spring, and it comes right out.

The cover is held by 3 smaller screws (right to left) 1.5mm, as well as 2 2.0mm screws (left to right). One screw will not clear the motor, remove that one second and the plate comes free. Afterwards 2 2.5mm hex cap screws with washers hold the motor to the plate. You need to remove the pinion to get it out as the pinion does not fit through the plate hole- 2.0mm retaining screw.

The 4274 bolts directly in, no adapters needed, with the smaller hole pattern. It appears there is two orientations you could mount the motor in, one as shown with the cabling facing the camera, then another counter-clockwise 90 degrees, although that will likely interfere with cabling.

The ESC is secured down with hook and loop / velcro. Easy to replace / install. This combo requires soldering, which I am horrific at, but somehow managed this time around. You hook the ESC and Steering Servo up to the light controller board, and the light controller board up to the receiver.

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I could not hook up the extra leads on the R3 for dynamic adjustment of the drag brake / etc, as there were no channels left, and I was not yet ready to change the receiver to the FrSky TD, so I skipped hooking those up for now, opting to test the new configuration.

Same pinion same battery, a LOT more pep in its step. Can crawl slow enough you wouldn't notice if you weren't looking hard. Doesn't whine. Unlock the diffs at speed or it will roll. Handles so realistically... its like going from a toy to the real deal. Drives, crawls, and sprints through thick grass without giving a hoot. It isn't "climbing over' the grass as it drives around on the lawn, it simply drives through it like it isn't there.

Simply superb upgrade. I will want to run 4S on this, so I'm hunting for an appropriately sized battery.
Maximum size the battery tray can handle: (LxWxH) 5.5"x2.5"x1.68" / 139x63x42mm.

I've got another R3+4274 on hand for another car thats on its way, as most reviews say the stock power system on it is lethargic.
 
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Well, I have a bunch of antennas arriving, some tomorrow, some Saturday. Will probably do the initial cabin wiring setup then.

Today however, something else arrived in the mail fom JLCPCB. I have a friend who designs PCBs, and I asked him to prototype something for me for RC stuff. Dude's a magician, no doubt about it.

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Basically, I wanted something to protect the batteries powering the video links. The board would shut off power to the VTX when voltages got critically low and allow a solar panel to be connected to extend runtimes.

They have XT30 connectors for input/output as well as a 3S balance lead input, and input for a solar panel. Plugging it in to test, looks like we'll need a couple tweaks to the design, but the current batch can be put to use with some minor additions.

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Not a lot here to see, but I wanted to put these little boards in view of the FPV camera so I could also tell the remaining battery capacity at a glance via the video feed. Three criminally bright green LEDs power on when the voltage becomes greater than 9.6v, 10.8V and 12.0V respectively, and a red LED indicates solar charge input.

With the FrSky system I can actually get per-cell voltages as telemetry so this is not needed for the new FPV rigs, only the ones I don't want to retrofit. I'll be testing these in the field and if results are good also maybe look at a beefed up version to charge the vehicle battery.
 
@kazetsukai This stuff is above my pay grade. But what your doing is pretty cool, even if I have no clue how it all goes together. Are you by any chance a Wizard? 🧙‍♂️ 🤔 That I would understand. 🤣
 
So, the right antennas arrived for the air unit. The air units come with SMA pigtails:

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Which I've been poking through the body on the XRT and TRX-6, then antennas go on top. To preserve the look, I instead opted to change out the pigtails with PCB antennas:

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These have 3M preinstalled underneath and will stick inside on the ceiling, and be completely concealed. Also about twice the dBi gain rating, and no antenna connector to come loose, hopefully they will have lower losses.

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I will be taking video of installing those tomorrow. Also, I prepped the ground station for the X2 in anticipation of some different antennas- I added a metal bracket for them to bolt through. If it works well I will update the TRX's ground station as well.

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Finally, I will also install the FrSky receivers, and the camera into the X2, with the hopes of getting in an initial run in. I have already tested livestreaming the car feeds on the TRX-6, and I might do one tomorrow. I would like to get to a point where I can control and livestream both simultaneously but I have some additional problems to work out there.

Pretty excited to do range testing tomorrow with beefier antennas on both ends!
 
Well after some other things to do this morning, I am now digging into the initial FPV conversion here. My ground station antennas arrived, I have them up on the tripod:

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And I got the PCB antennas hooked up on the air unit so far.

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And today will include the FrSky TD receiver conversion.

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I'll post here as I make progress...
 
FrSky conversion is in.

New battery went in, 8000mAh 3S. I found a 5200mAh 6S that will fit I might switch to, still looking for a 4S in the 7k range.
Support bar had to go to get this one in, I'm fine charging it in the car.

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The new receiver is too big for the waterproof box., so that had to go. Will look for an aftermarket solution to that later...

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And then I did the bare minimum to secure things down / tidy up for now. Gotta avoid dunking the car for the time being I guess.

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Mapped the channels on the receiver, this thing is way over my head right now. I hope to use it to control multiple cars at once, sometimes with some extra controllable hardware onboard (like the gimbals).

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Now I'm taking the body apart to get the camera and VTX in...
 
So, where to begin.

Body disassembly is quite involved, lots of hardware holding things together.

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The door handles act as body mounts with inward facing clips! Interesting.

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Even with all of that out it does take maneuvering to get the interior removed. Several clips hold the light wiring in place:

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But once out, the interior comes out in one piece.

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Initially I intended to remove the driver, but before that I do want to test fit things, so I decided today we'd be a ride-along cameraman.

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For the time being I just decided to lay down velcro, so things can move if needed later.

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You can see an incision made right behind the center console, this is where the power and SBUS signal come in. Wiring all squared away....

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After a quick test fit, I buttoned everything up to run an initial test (the video). Looking slick, cameraman.

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So, there are some problems to work out.... Even with the new ground station antennas, video feed range dropped a bit. I need to play with various mounting positions in the cabin. The tandem link is really good, with 2.4GHz and 900MHz redundancy.

Video is a bit distorted going through the lexan windshield, and there is some glare. Detail is still good enough to see stuff in the mirrors, although a bit bluury. What do to about this one, hmm. I do need to figure out how to make the interior more accessible as well.

Have some thinking to do. Need to retest when the sun goes down to see how the stock headlights hold up.
 
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