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Josh Cyrul Method
- Thread starter Diver6127
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DarthRacer
Hardcore RCTalk User
Dude, I just read that and that looks like it is a break-in for racing. He was boasting that he once had an engine last for 16 HOURS of racing. Only 16 hours? I'd say use the Ron Paris method or just go by the engine's manual.
me personally I use the heat cycleing method the cyrul method is a bit extreme for me.
http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?t=180849&highlight=break+procedure
http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?t=180849&highlight=break+procedure
- Thread starter
- #4
I'm going to try it out anyway. Reason being is because most serious "circuit racers" don't use the engine to the "full expectancy" as we do. The minute it starts losing compression, it's garbage. I plan to use this method in a buggy that will be used for competition 80% of the time. The other 20% is for those days that there's no race and I'm board. I'm not strictly a basher like those crazy squirrelsDarthRacer said:
I got my EB4-S3 with the notion that I will be racing her. The other buggy that I'm getting will be for "shits and giggles."CorradoPsi
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DO NOT DO IT DIVER very bad for the bearings. virgin engine bearings need to be broken in to avoid scaring the races and putting tiny flat spots on the balls. use the "bess method" aka the heat cycle method. I've had great success with it, i used to use the idle method before, but heat cycling really has shown more power out of my mills and longer life. and yes all i do is race, i have specific vehicles just for bashing. and all the racers i know, pros included want thier engines to last as long as possible, even the pros get 6-8 gallons through thier mills before a pinch or rebuild.
HEAT CYCLE METHOD
From the very 1st time you start your engine, plop the car on the
ground & begin running it in a parking lot in 2-3 minute intervals,
tuned only *slightly rich* getting the temps up in the 200F range on a
normal day. Every 2-3 minutes, shut the engine down & let it cool
completely with the piston at BDC, and then fire it back up; continue
this cycle until you've run 15 min or so, and then bump up to 3-4
minute intervals. Vary the RPM and don't be afraid to get the temps
in the 200's. What you want is heat cycling of the components without
the incredible stress that comes with breaking an engine in when it's
overly rich & cold. After cycling the engine in this manner for about
20-25 total minutes, it'll be ready for the track and race tuning.
i will be pm'ing you a very valuable link for 8th scale racing.
HEAT CYCLE METHOD
From the very 1st time you start your engine, plop the car on the
ground & begin running it in a parking lot in 2-3 minute intervals,
tuned only *slightly rich* getting the temps up in the 200F range on a
normal day. Every 2-3 minutes, shut the engine down & let it cool
completely with the piston at BDC, and then fire it back up; continue
this cycle until you've run 15 min or so, and then bump up to 3-4
minute intervals. Vary the RPM and don't be afraid to get the temps
in the 200's. What you want is heat cycling of the components without
the incredible stress that comes with breaking an engine in when it's
overly rich & cold. After cycling the engine in this manner for about
20-25 total minutes, it'll be ready for the track and race tuning.
i will be pm'ing you a very valuable link for 8th scale racing.
I agree w/ Corrado...I just found a local guy who does the heat cycle method on a stand.....what a difference.....I had my last 2 RGs done that way and the newer one still feels tight.....after 2 gallons....getting my VZ-b back B4 saturday...yeay.....the engines last so much longer when heat cycled...
sl0eg1n
RCTalk Talkaholic
i will be using the josh cyrul method on my next engine. why? because i have seen engines that were broken-in with this method. this method has been tested and proven successful on racing engines.
when you are breaking in an engine, you are basically seating it and the oil is acting as a polishing/ cleaning fluid. you will be performing the break-in at RPM as opposed to idle.
it's always good practice to change the conrod after break-in or every 2 1/2 gallons. if you think about it, 1 gallon is usually needed to get an engine fully broken-in. how do you know your engine is broken-in? it doesn't have that binding pinch when you turn the flywheel by hand.
when you are breaking in an engine, you are basically seating it and the oil is acting as a polishing/ cleaning fluid. you will be performing the break-in at RPM as opposed to idle.
it's always good practice to change the conrod after break-in or every 2 1/2 gallons. if you think about it, 1 gallon is usually needed to get an engine fully broken-in. how do you know your engine is broken-in? it doesn't have that binding pinch when you turn the flywheel by hand.
the heat cycle method on an engine stand breaks em in at WOT....you just run it really Rich on top and set it for 205 -210 deg....that's seating the P/S ....SHO NUFF!!!!
breaking in on your car is hard to kep the temp up and keep a load on it unless you sit it on a box and throw some JUMBO kongs on a buggy filled w/ a heavy foam.....
breaking in on your car is hard to kep the temp up and keep a load on it unless you sit it on a box and throw some JUMBO kongs on a buggy filled w/ a heavy foam.....