Jato 3.3 sleeve

[HDRIDER56]

So I'm replacing the piston and sleeve in my Jato 3.3 engine, trying to get the sleeve out. It's frozen in place, I've tried the zip tie, just cuts them in half like a hot knife in butter, tried a piece of electric wire, cut it like it was nothing,
I've heated the case with no luck, I can't get it to do anything, tried pushing from the bottom, won't budge. Got it soaking in PB Blaster right now

Anyone have any suggestions?

 

[fstnd]

Got it soaking in PB Blaster right now.

That was a great idea, I guess it's like WD40.
Heat it so much that you'd burn yourself if you touched it... proven to work
I can't really tell by the picture, but if you can grab the top of the cylinder with a tool and wiggle it (counter)-clockwise, and simultaneously pull it out, it should go

 

[CertifiedMike]

Have you tried a wider and thicker piece of plastic?
Cutting thru zip ties and copper wire isn't really that hard to do.
Try using a thicker, tougher piece of plastic. Avoid metal.
You can heat the metal parts only ( no rubber, plastic, carb off...) in an oven. I think in 200° F area will be ok. I would not go crazy with temps.
Use a pan under the parts in a crappy toaster oven outside in you driveway. I wouldn't do it in the house or use home oven. Have an extinguisher and gloves too.
Watch the enire time for smoke or any other signs of trouble. In 1/2 hr, check to see if its going ok. You can keep it in longer if you need to.
BE EXCEPTIONALLY CAREFUL WHEN HANDLING THE HOT PARTS!!! There might be hot liquid on the pan or still inside the motor. It can and will burn you. Use all precautions to avoid a burn!!! They are NO FUN!!!
At some point it will either release a bunch of gunk and the stuck parts or you can feel good about really giving it your best shot before you bought a new motor.
Make sure if you do the oven thing, you watch it and don't have a fire etc.
***Be safe. Be smart, have an extinguisher ready, just in case of accident.
Do remember that those parts will be hot so don't just go ahead and grab the stuff without proper thermal gloves for protection from heat and liquid should it happen to drip into your hands by accident.
Eye protection seems smart all the time to me.

 

[Chubaka]

Have you tried a wider and thicker piece of plastic?
Cutting thru zip ties and copper wire isn't really that hard to do.
Try using a thicker, tougher piece of plastic. Avoid metal.
You can heat the metal parts only ( no rubber, plastic, carb off...) in an oven. I think in 200° F area will be ok. I would not go crazy with temps.
Use a pan under the parts in a crappy toaster oven outside in you driveway. I wouldn't do it in the house or use home oven. Have an extinguisher and gloves too.
Watch the enire time for smoke or any other signs of trouble. In 1/2 hr, check to see if its going ok. You can keep it in longer if you need to.
BE EXCEPTIONALLY CAREFUL WHEN HANDLING THE HOT PARTS!!! There might be hot liquid on the pan or still inside the motor. It can and will burn you. Use all precautions to avoid a burn!!! They are NO FUN!!!
At some point it will either release a bunch of gunk and the stuck parts or you can feel good about really giving it your best shot before you bought a new motor.
Make sure if you do the oven thing, you watch it and don't have a fire etc.
***Be safe. Be smart, have an extinguisher ready, just in case of accident.
Do remember that those parts will be hot so don't just go ahead and grab the stuff without proper thermal gloves for protection from heat and liquid should it happen to drip into your hands by accident.
Eye protection seems smart all the time to me.

Agree. I used i think 2 ziptirs on my jato 2.5 motor. Had to use the vise to help break it. Either 2 hippies or one folded over.

 

[HDRIDER56]

Agree. I used i think 2 ziptirs on my jato 2.5 motor. Had to use the vise to help break it. Either 2 hippies or one folded over.

I've stuffed four in it and still cut them like they were not there

 

[CertifiedMike]

There are sleeve removal tools. I have no idea if there is one that works with a 3.3 though. I see them for .21 motors.

Heat your block and I bet it breaks loose.

 

[HDRIDER56]

Have you tried a wider and thicker piece of plastic?
Cutting thru zip ties and copper wire isn't really that hard to do.
Try using a thicker, tougher piece of plastic. Avoid metal.
You can heat the metal parts only ( no rubber, plastic, carb off...) in an oven. I think in 200° F area will be ok. I would not go crazy with temps.
Use a pan under the parts in a crappy toaster oven outside in you driveway. I wouldn't do it in the house or use home oven. Have an extinguisher and gloves too.
Watch the enire time for smoke or any other signs of trouble. In 1/2 hr, check to see if its going ok. You can keep it in longer if you need to.
BE EXCEPTIONALLY CAREFUL WHEN HANDLING THE HOT PARTS!!! There might be hot liquid on the pan or still inside the motor. It can and will burn you. Use all precautions to avoid a burn!!! They are NO FUN!!!
At some point it will either release a bunch of gunk and the stuck parts or you can feel good about really giving it your best shot before you bought a new motor.
Make sure if you do the oven thing, you watch it and don't have a fire etc.
***Be safe. Be smart, have an extinguisher ready, just in case of accident.
Do remember that those parts will be hot so don't just go ahead and grab the stuff without proper thermal gloves for protection from heat and liquid should it happen to drip into your hands by accident.
Eye protection seems smart all the time to me.

I tried using a toothed belt with wire inside it from my carpet cleaner doubled up and it cut it like it was nothing as soon as I put torque to it.

 

[HDRIDER56]

There are sleeve removal tools. I have no idea if there is one that works with a 3.3 though. I see them for .21 motors.

Heat your block and I bet it breaks loose.

I have somewhat with a torch lighter that I use for small soldering projects. I'm being extremely careful with the heat.
I need to figure a way to keep the sleeve cold while I heat the block. Thinking about getting a plastic baggie with the piston down line the sleeve with the baggie and freeze some water in it. Then heat the block slowly at 1st to warm it back up then shock it with higher flame.

 

[CertifiedMike]

Heat the block with the torch. Move the heat around as evenly as possible. You're not trying to get anything glowing red, not even really that hot.
As long as you keep the flame moving , no hot spots, you'll be fine.

The ice shock is unlikely to help imo. The problem is thick, gunked fuel oil stuck on internals. The heat will soften the gunked oils and make it pliable.
Its the same reason heat works to help free stuck motors.
If you shock the cylinder with ice, you might break some physical bond between the sleeve and case. It could help.
The cold will rebond that gunked oil though and then are starting over again.

I would urge you to not get a plastic baggie near that heated motor. IF it melts, it could be a big mess.

Try the heat and tie wraps but same warning. If the motor is screaming hot, you'll melt the plastic so be careful with the torch.

This isn't the same as taking a broken stud out of a rusty exhaust manifold. Your plan with the ice could work well there.

You can always try the ice plan if straight heat doesn't help but it really seems to be the trick for lots of ppl.
I've freed a couple well seized motors with low heat and a bit of grunt. No chemicals or anything.

 

[HDRIDER56]

Heat the block with the torch. Move the heat around as evenly as possible. You're not trying to get anything glowing red, not even really that hot.
As long as you keep the flame moving , no hot spots, you'll be fine.

The ice shock is unlikely to help imo. The problem is thick, gunked fuel oil stuck on internals. The heat will soften the gunked oils and make it pliable.
Its the same reason heat works to help free stuck motors.
If you shock the cylinder with ice, you might break some physical bond between the sleeve and case. It could help.
The cold will rebond that gunked oil though and then are starting over again.

I would urge you to not get a plastic baggie near that heated motor. IF it melts, it could be a big mess.

Try the heat and tie wraps but same warning. If the motor is screaming hot, you'll melt the plastic so be careful with the torch.

This isn't the same as taking a broken stud out of a rusty exhaust manifold. Your plan with the ice could work well there.

You can always try the ice plan if straight heat doesn't help but it really seems to be the trick for lots of ppl.
I've freed a couple well seized motors with low heat and a bit of grunt. No chemicals or anything.

Oh trust me the baggie would of been gone, just was an mold option, I hear what you're saying on this, crazy thing is I just had it apart a couple months ago, zero issues getting it out then. Won't start, piston and sleeve worn. I haven't ran it since putting it back together.

 

[CertifiedMike]

Ok. I try to be thorough. Sometimes it helps a newer rc'r out.
I hope nothing got on the mating surfaces during the re assembly. A bit of grit could cause a lot of issues.
I'd give the heat a try. It sounds like you haven't got much to loose. You won't damage anything as long as you're careful.
Still though, do the heating outdoors. You have sprayed things that could offgas or worse in that motor.

 

[HDRIDER56]

Success, one 3.3 sleeve and piston REMOVED, motor disassembled. Block internal surfaces look fine, sleeve is scuffed up, that's more from me trying to get it out.
Check pictures what it took to get it out.

 

[CertifiedMike]

At least its out!

 

[HDRIDER56]

At least its out!

It definitely wasn't pretty getting it out, it fought me every last mm, only thing I could really see that caused it was it's out of round? Yet the piston wasn't binding when I turned the engine over by hand. Got or getting all new internals, the bearings are surprisingly turning really smooth, still getting new ones along with a new connecting rod with all the stress I just put it under getting it apart. Will post updates as I get it rebuilt.

 

[CertifiedMike]

I don't think I've seen anything like that unless it was on an old rusty Ford!
I hope the worst is behind you!
You should use a mic to make sure the block itself isn't wonk too.
No sense building anothet motor that will do the same thing!
I think I prob would have gone the other way... bought an OS or something!

 

[HDRIDER56]

I don't think I've seen anything like that unless it was on an old rusty Ford!
I hope the worst is behind you!
You should use a mic to make sure the block itself isn't wonk too.
No sense building anothet motor that will do the same thing!
I think I prob would have gone the other way... bought an OS or something!

Working on that as well speak. Just dropped the bearings out, cleaning it then I'll mic it. I appreciate the follow up, good looking out

 

[HDRIDER56]

I ordered a set of BOCA engine bearings, What a difference compared to Acer and Traxxas bearings.

 

[HDRIDER56]

She's back together, already did a quick 10/20 second bench run on her. Damn loud as hell.

 

[HDRIDER56]

I got a question for any nitro Jato owner, has anyone figured out a hack how to get to the damn carb pinch bolt with the car fully assembled? Need to move my carb forward to clear the starter motor. For the life of me I can’t see anyway getting to it with the ex start installed

 

[CertifiedMike]

I got a question for any nitro Jato owner, has anyone figured out a hack how to get to the damn carb pinch bolt with the car fully assembled? Need to move my carb forward to clear the starter motor. For the life of me I can’t see anyway getting to it with the ex start installed

@Chubaka might be your guy fir this one.