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Inferno diffs!!
- Thread starter w0d00
- Start date
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uDi_MP7.5
RCTalk Talkaholic
Your kit includes twin bevel geared diffs F/R/C, and if you want, you can upgrade to quad bevels like all the models above it. You'll need 1 bevel shaft, 2 bevel gears, and 2 shims per diff.
So all up you'll need 3 shafts, 6 bevel gears, and 6 shims.
More importantly, the sports/readyset diffs have main gears made out of softer cast aluminium, which may eventually strip. You can upgrade to the machined/hardened steel gears that the regular kits and above - these will never strip - mine still look like new; absolutely no wear.
It might be worth just using those stock gears till they go though, otherwise it would be a bit of a waste... I do know that they won't strip too easy unless you move to something with much, much more power than the stock engine.
If you got money lying around and nothing to do with it - its worth upgrading the diffs. Otherwise, you should be able to live with those fine.
If you must have part numbers, I can find them for you, but checking the back of your manual or kyosho website would probably be quicker.
Good Luck
-uDi
So all up you'll need 3 shafts, 6 bevel gears, and 6 shims.
More importantly, the sports/readyset diffs have main gears made out of softer cast aluminium, which may eventually strip. You can upgrade to the machined/hardened steel gears that the regular kits and above - these will never strip - mine still look like new; absolutely no wear.
It might be worth just using those stock gears till they go though, otherwise it would be a bit of a waste... I do know that they won't strip too easy unless you move to something with much, much more power than the stock engine.
If you got money lying around and nothing to do with it - its worth upgrading the diffs. Otherwise, you should be able to live with those fine.
If you must have part numbers, I can find them for you, but checking the back of your manual or kyosho website would probably be quicker.
Good Luck
-uDi
- Thread starter
- #3
Inferno diffs..
Thanx -uDi
I drive the Inferno till i understand thet i have to change the diffs... I'm still at break in prosess...
Do you have any good break inn rutine for the Gs21R??
Seems like you know hvat your talking about.. thanks for helping..
Stay
Thanx -uDi
I drive the Inferno till i understand thet i have to change the diffs... I'm still at break in prosess...
Do you have any good break inn rutine for the Gs21R??
Seems like you know hvat your talking about.. thanks for helping..
Stay
uDi_MP7.5
RCTalk Talkaholic
Yeah, don't worry about it just yet. Run those diffs, you can upgrade to the stronger gears etc later.
For break-in, read this article and follow it to the dot.
http://www.johnnycoolguy.com/JCGR/tables_site/main_pages/tech_break-in.html
IS the GS21R an ABC or ABN? I used to know the facts cold and hard, but my memory is fading. If its ABN (Aluminum, Brass, Nickel), you shouldn't use that guide perhaps. Stick to the manufacturer directions instead, your kit/engine should have come with breakin instructions.
good luck.
For break-in, read this article and follow it to the dot.
http://www.johnnycoolguy.com/JCGR/tables_site/main_pages/tech_break-in.html
IS the GS21R an ABC or ABN? I used to know the facts cold and hard, but my memory is fading. If its ABN (Aluminum, Brass, Nickel), you shouldn't use that guide perhaps. Stick to the manufacturer directions instead, your kit/engine should have come with breakin instructions.
good luck.
Hey not sure about that engine break-in guide I found one by Ron Pairs that is a bit diffrent?
http://www.nitrohouse.com/engine_breakin.htm
uDi_MP7.5
RCTalk Talkaholic
There is some good information there, but the article I linked to is newer, and easier to read/understand. I believe even Ron ended up reccomending the method without the idling....
I think it has been proven many times over by now that breaking in your engine inside the car, driving, is the best way to go. Right from tank 1. Along with heat cycling.
Longer engine life, more power, and less premature P/S wear in breakin period due to clearances that are too tight (thats what happens when you break an engine in too cold/rich)
If its an abc, keep it over 200, let the engine cool down after each tank completely, before warming/starting up again (heat-cycling > allows internals to expand and contract) and if its not getting warm, do whatever you have to do to get it warm. A common doing is wrapping the engine head in alfoil.
Start at manufacturers breakin settings, and progressively lean out 1/16th of a turn every 1-2 tanks. Never do 10 tanks (or whatever) rich for breakin, and then lean the hell out of it once breakin is done - doing it gradually is smart.
I think it has been proven many times over by now that breaking in your engine inside the car, driving, is the best way to go. Right from tank 1. Along with heat cycling.
Longer engine life, more power, and less premature P/S wear in breakin period due to clearances that are too tight (thats what happens when you break an engine in too cold/rich)
If its an abc, keep it over 200, let the engine cool down after each tank completely, before warming/starting up again (heat-cycling > allows internals to expand and contract) and if its not getting warm, do whatever you have to do to get it warm. A common doing is wrapping the engine head in alfoil.
Start at manufacturers breakin settings, and progressively lean out 1/16th of a turn every 1-2 tanks. Never do 10 tanks (or whatever) rich for breakin, and then lean the hell out of it once breakin is done - doing it gradually is smart.
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