I just finished the break in. So I'm good there. And it stays high the entire time. When I give it breaks it's still idling high. And it walks away fast enough where I would have to lightly jog to catch up to it. I thought I was decent at tuning but I suppose I'm not.
Okay...so did you tune it after the break in? I'm like you in that I am still learning how to tune, but I've learned the idle gap is probably THE largest factor in a good race tune. A lot of people find that surprising, but all it works for me at least. Everyone thinks 1mm is the key, but I doubt I have any engines over .8mm.
Perhaps the gurus on here can correct me if I am mistaken, but I find it difficult if not impossible to get a good race tune with an idle gap 1mm open. I believe the idle stop/LSN dictates 80% of a good tune.
I guess my point here is to level set. Just don't want to see you start pulling your clutch, sealing your engine, and all that crap that is often advised when it's something very simple. If you are patient with tuning, you will be surprised at how they can be optimized.
When people hear other engines just screaming their tits off they think it's because it's one of those fancy, italian, bump box engines. In reality it's just the guys that own those ALSO know how to tune.
The focus should be on what to listen for. The pinch test is only as good as you know what to listen for. First I do is (after engine is awake) give it some high speed runs. If the ballistic RPMs are carrying once I let loose of the throttle I then close by idle gap some. I don't care how much I've closed it. I could be at 2mm or .02 mm...as long as it drops right to idle, remains consistent and reliable, and then banshees through the power band when I punch it, I'm gold.
Here is a vid that helped me a LOT. He sums it up at 4:55
