I wanna clean my motor......

[Nubster]

How do I do it and what should I use? I have a Sirio .18 and as far as I know it has been run without an airfilter. I just hope there is no irrepairable damage already done. I have a new filter and am ready to get this thing rolling.

 

[4u2nv]

Take the 4 bolts out from the underside, take the bolts off from inside the top of the head, and then take out the bolts holding on the pullstart (be carefull when taking off the pullstart to make sure the spring doesn't come unwound. I'm not sure if thats a enclosed spring or not) and then spray out the inside of the cylinder and the crankcase with degreaser. Once all cleaned up, spray the inside down with wd-40 and reassemble. Once assembled, put a few drops on after run oil down the cynlider and put it back on the truck. Hope that helps. Good luck!

 

[4u2nv]

Oh I forgot, ya also want to spray some degreaser down the neck of your carb. Then once the gunk (if any) is cleaned out, add a couple drops of after run oil and open and close the carb to lube the parts back up.

 

[Nubster]

Thanks.

 

[Nubster]

Okay, motor torn down and degressed. I have washed everything off and sprayed down with WD40. Any hints or tips or need to knows before putting back together?

 

[Revo Rancher]

Make sure you get everything lined up properly, shimmed as far as clearance between the CB and the flywheel, and then when you install the engine back in the chassis watch that the mesh is even and the mesh gap is proper. The easiest way to get the proper mesh gap is to put a piece of paper in betweenthe CB gear and the flywheel gear. Once you tighten the motor mount bolts you should be able to pull the paper out without teearing it or it just slipping out.

 

[Plaidfish]

check the piston/sleeve for pinch....you need to take both out of th eengien to do that....you'll see a ring of wear on the inside of the sleeve just under the lip at the top of the sleeve....if your piton pushes past that line you should get it pinched before re-assembling it......I would tear it down and check that before going through the hassle of doing it 2 times before it runs right......whenever you don't know the condition of your rig it's best to tear it down and inspect the parts individually.....also check the conrod bushings.....if you have a micrometer check to see if the bushing is still round....if not you can set the conrod on your crank journal and see if it has excessive play.....w/o being there and you not being familiar w/ it this check will be a lil tricky.....if a conrod is more than .002" out of round I replace it....that doesn't sound like a lot but trust me that's WAY mor ethan most of the guys I run w/ allow on theirs.....

 

[Nubster]

Well, it's ALIVE. Put it back together and cranked on it and it seemed to pull really hard and "choppy". Ended up being the crank box (whatever you call it) on the back of the block was too tight. Loosened just the tiniest bit and smooth as butter. Started it up pretty easy and it seems to idle and rev up really good. But that is coming from a complete newb, so the reality of it may be a total 180. Anyways, let it idle for a few and ended up flooding itpps: I was going to give it a quick run, but evidently the crystals did not make it into my bag at the LHS yesterday though they made it onto the bill onder2:
I am going to take the opportunity to tear the rest down and clean it up since I can't run it anyways and I don't feel like driving 40 min. to the shop to get my parts. Gotta go to town Friday anyways, so it can wait 'till then.

Plaid, put it back together before reading your post. That is probably beyond me at this point anyways, so I will let the HS take a look at it. Thanks for the info though, So much to learn:jittery: