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I got it!... =(

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flandersander

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RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
I got my savage! The pullstart string came unattatched so I farted around with that for all of yesterday and today and got it to work. I got it running and whatnot and was driving it around. I came up the small slope of my yard at WOT and the wheels locked up. I can't even turn them by hand. I checked the brakes and they are fine. Does anybody know what could be the problem? I think it is the tranny because I can't turn the spur gear and the diffys are fine.
 
Make sure there is no debris in the drive train. If not I would remove the tranny first. Then try spinning the tires. See if either the front or the back does not spin freely. This may give you an idea of what is wrong.
 
Check if the dog bones have dirt or debris preventing them to spin. Check the hubs, center dogbones too and then move to the tranny if nothing shows up.
 
Dog bones are the center drive shafts, and the shafts going to each wheel. It's common to pick up a stone, stick or chunk of gravel and have it get into a place that locks up the drive.
 
Well I can't see any obvious debris. I assume the diffs are fine because when I turn only one wheel, the other turns. Maybe they aren't good but I can't imagine why they would go bad. I was just driving.
 
I think the diffs are fine. There is no obvious debris that I can see. So what do I do next?
 
Physically check brake pads arent engaged.


take the top off your tranny, take the gears out, try spinning wheels.

drop each dogbone and try spinning the front and rear wheels to eliminate dead diff
 
Ok I got it. The set screw flew out at high speed and shot into the tranny housing. This went into the brake piston and engaged the brakes. I got it all out and I could drive it but it has no brakes. I got the new housing and brake linkage stuff so it should be up and running in a few days. I also busted the tank when it flipped so I got a new one.
 
All is not well anymore. I can't get this fricken screw out and its pissing me off. Its the one that holds the rearmost part of the tranny to the bottom plate. Its a tiny allan and it was all stripped. I tried to get it out and its not happening. Its ay in there si I can't cut a notch in it. What can I do to get it out. This is really frustrating. It seems that whenever I get a nitro, it breaks. I get it fixed, it breaks again. So the answer seemed to be a savage. I got it, it broke. Is this how these things are cuz thats the impression I am under.
 
Get some JB weld. Put a big blob (technical term, I can elaborate on the definition if need be) of JB weld on the end of an allen wrench. Use one of those disposable allen wrenches, not one of your $20 Hudy wrenches lol. WIth a large amount of JB Weld on the wrench, stick it into the head of the screw, just as you would do if it wasn't stripped. Now prop it up so it sits there in good contact and let the JB Weld dry and harden as long as the instructions say to do so. Don't skimp on this step or you'll have to start all over. Once it's completely dry and bonded, simply unscrew the bolt, and thorw away the bolt and screw. Be sure that you have another one to replace it.

flandersander said:
All is not well anymore. I can't get this fricken screw out and its pissing me off. Its the one that holds the rearmost part of the tranny to the bottom plate. Its a tiny allan and it was all stripped. I tried to get it out and its not happening. Its ay in there si I can't cut a notch in it. What can I do to get it out. This is really frustrating. It seems that whenever I get a nitro, it breaks. I get it fixed, it breaks again. So the answer seemed to be a savage. I got it, it broke. Is this how these things are cuz thats the impression I am under.
Click to expand...

Well when you buy a $500 truck for $200, it's going to require some tender loving care. However, it doesn't matter what RC you have, if you're driving it hard enough to crack the fuel tank, you're going to experience breakage.
 
CharliesTheMan said:
Well when you buy a $500 truck for $200, it's going to require some tender loving care. However, it doesn't matter what RC you have, if you're driving it hard enough to crack the fuel tank, you're going to experience breakage.
Click to expand...


Just to be clear. I didn't drive it hard at all. I was coming up the little hill and the wheels locked up. When it did a huge flip it skidded on its top without a body and ripped the corner off a tank. I don't expect to drive it that hard until the novelty wears off...:boxing:
 
flandersander said:
Just to be clear. I didn't drive it hard at all. I was coming up the little hill and the wheels locked up. When it did a huge flip it skidded on its top without a body and ripped the corner off a tank. I don't expect to drive it that hard until the novelty wears off...:boxing:
Click to expand...

I have to laugh when guys run their rigs without bodies and then complain when something breaks. The body serves a purpose other than looking nice. It actually provides protection to what is underneath.

Time and time again I see guys practicing around the track without bodies. Almost always they end up skidding upside down or being run over by another RC and something breaks. Easily avoidable if they just put their body on. You don't race without a body so why practice without one. Nice way to end your racing day before it even starts.
 
+ one on Charles suggestion. Those little suckers are either loctited well or just old and need to be serviced. When dealing withh those set screws I like to use a quality driver. Use LEVERAGE as the little L allen's tend to not work well. I also may use a hair dryer to warm up that set screw to loosen the loctite.

Let us know how it goes.
 

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