HPI Savage 25 - Need Part #

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rcenth

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I have the HPI Savage 25. I need the part # to this shaft that the clutch bell goes on, I need to change it. I can't find which part it is and in the HPI schematics it doesn't state the part # either. I have attached a picture below:

2013-06-01%2013.50.56.jpg
 
That shaft is part of the crank dood! Whay are u looking to replace it? For whatever reasons u have for wanting to replace it, ur better off with replacing the entire engine with somethimg better honestly.
 
Can you please tell me the part # or what it's called
 
What is this engine

Hey bud I just looked in my savage x manual, and it says the crank shaft part # 1423, this manual is from a savage x I picked up about 6-7 years ago....not sure what motor that is in your pic, mine has a grey block, and a roto start

Does anyone know how to identify HPI engines?
 
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Are you replacing it cause it's worn down or does the engine leak from there?
 
Hey bud I just looked in my savage x manual, and it says the crank shaft part # 1423, this manual is from a savage x I picked up about 6-7 years ago....not sure what motor that is in your pic, mine has a grey block, and a roto start

Does anyone know how to identify HPI engines?

I have an HPI savage 25 engine, it looks like yours. does yours say 25 on the opposite side of where it says HPI? like on the other side mine says 25.

---------- Post added at 2:59 PM ---------- Previous post was at 2:59 PM ----------

Are you replacing it cause it's worn down or does the engine leak from there?

worn down, clutch bell is slipping on it
 
I have an axial .32 spec1 that leaks from either the bearing, where the crank shaft touches the bearing, or from where the bearing touches the block with the outer ring.....I fear that the engine was leaned out too far an has suffered some heat damage, but I am not an R\C expert by any means. And would welcome anyone's advice on how to fix the problem

I know just buy a better engine is the best choice, but some of us are mechanics and we relish in the thought of fixing things that are worn out,

---------- Post added at 3:09 PM ---------- Previous post was at 3:06 PM ----------

No mine says HPI on both sides of the crank case, it says HPI on the carb too...other than that it has no serial #

---------- Post added at 3:19 PM ---------- Previous post was at 3:09 PM ----------

How do you mean clutch bell is slipping?......like it doesn't make contact with the spur, it moves back and forth on crank shaft?.....have you tried replacing the clutch bell bearings?
What about the brass spacer on the outside of the clutch bell
 
Does the slipping cause the clutch bell to not engage even though the gear mesh of the spur and clutch bell are good...you could try cleaning out the clutch bell cause I noticed that you are using stock clutch pads....over time they will leave a film on the inside of the bell housing causing more slipping........how tight is the slipper on you spur gear?
 
A slipping clutch bell has nothing to do with the crankshaft. More than likely your clutch shoes are worn, the springs are weak or the bell has become glazed over.

Sent from my XT907
 
Ur probably gonna want to replace the front and rear bearings while ur at it.

Crankshaft: HPI1424
Front Bearing: HPI1421
Rear Bearing: HPI1422

Parts list: http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/instr/s-25manual/E12.jpg

Thanks!! That was exactly what I needed to know. I had found an HPI 1424 on ebay but, it said it was for the 21. I couldn't find anywhere that it said for the 25. However, that link you posted from HPI's site confirms the HPI 1424 will also work on the 25. I was able to find the front bearing but, unfortunately could not find the rear bearing with that part # tried to Google also but, couldn't find it.

---------- Post added at 9:47 PM ---------- Previous post was at 9:45 PM ----------

A slipping clutch bell has nothing to do with the crankshaft. More than likely your clutch shoes are worn, the springs are weak or the bell has become glazed over.

Sent from my XT907

Thanks for letting me know that. I'm just going to get the crankshaft just incase and if it turns out I don't need it then I'll return it. because of your suggestions I also put in to my order for new clutch shoes and clutch bell, so hopefully changing out everything should fix the issue.

THANKS FOR ALL THE QUICK REPLIES!!!! I was at work earlier, was checking the posts but, not able to reply. Thanks again!
 
Does the slipping cause the clutch bell to not engage even though the gear mesh of the spur and clutch bell are good...you could try cleaning out the clutch bell cause I noticed that you are using stock clutch pads....over time they will leave a film on the inside of the bell housing causing more slipping........how tight is the slipper on you spur gear?

actualy I'm not a mechanic or doing the work on this, theres this other guy that's doing the work so I'm just trying to do the research. He's the one that told me that we need to change the shaft, and to be honest that did sound odd to me. I didn't understand that shaft causing this issue but, I just said whatever and so I'm going to get it. He was saying it was something to do with the screw, he was trying to take it out and he way saying it was stuck or looks like it got jammed inside or something, so took a dremmel to it and so the outer part of the shaft looks a little damaged from the dremmel. So, I think i have to change this regardless now.

yes gear mesh of spur gear and clutch bell should be good. I would hope with his experience he would know to check that but, I personally did not check it. He was saying like it will be fine for a second and then all of a sudden clutch bell starts spinning freely or something like that.

So just incase, I've went ahead and ordered another clutch bell, clutch shoes, and slipper clutch. Hopefully after fixing all these issues, hope it will start working properly.

---------- Post added at 10:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 9:56 PM ----------

You could also look for aluminum clutch shoes.

I'm just going to put stock parts on it because I'm actually just trying to get this vehicle up and running to sell, I'm not keeping it for myself so, want to spend as little as possible. Somebody traded me for this, on the first day we tested everything seemed fine, then after that all kinds of problems, one way bearing had to be changed, rotor start died out, so changed it to a pull start, etc. I'm probably going to be losing money or making barely anything after what I've paid for in parts, after I sell it.
 
Man, all the money you just sunk into an old rtr motor you could have bought a brand new motor.

When the cb looks like its slipping its most likely the spur gear. Now in your case I bet those clutch shoes haven't been changed in forever, thus causing the slip. Look into the integy savage clutch kit. Everything you need for under $20. I personally run there clutch kit on my speed truck and the clutch takes everything I can throw at it and lasts at least 2 gallons.

Checking mesh is easy, you want a slight tick tick between the gears. Not to tight so it sounds like a slight grind, and not to loose where you can really feel the gap. Just right, you'll know when you have it. It's takes time and patients to set mesh correctly. Robin taught me a few years ago and I haven't stripped another gear.
 
You should try looking for an after market set of bearings, they make them for r/c engines, go to your automotive parts store, ask for a good digital caliper, so you can get some measurement off of the bearings...you might find something like ceramic, or some type of performance bearings of sorts?
 
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