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hpi ribbed pipe

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pee wee

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Has anyone tryed the hpi ribbed pipe out? How's the sound and performance? Lhs has one on hand. Looking for a good pipe for my picco .26. Any other suggestions on a different pipe would be helpful. Thanks Pee Wee
 
It comes with the SS kit so someone has to have it..... maybe they're not using it and will sell you one cheap....
 
it comes with the .25 too right? sorry if I'm wrong. but if you get that, tell me how it goes please cause I'm thinkin of gettin that.
vince
 
Originally posted by SaVaGeR21
it comes with the .25 too right? sorry if I'm wrong. but if you get that, tell me how it goes please cause I'm thinkin of gettin that.
vince


nah only the SS comes with the ribbed pipe... the 25RTR comes with the stock plastic...

HPI found out that the stock pipe ran better than the ribb one.. that's why when they did the 25 RTR they added a 3 shoe clutch system, primerless tank, and stock pipe..
 
Thanks for the input guys. Just wanted to see if it was worth the money to buy.
 
I really like the ribbed pipe. I was running the stock plastic one that came with the RTR kit until a couple months ago. I put on the ribbed black pipe. I had to retune slightly but I think it sounds better and has a little more oomph. The ribbed pipe is supposed to give you more low-end, which mine certainly had at first but it was running a little lean on the LSN. Once I richened it up a little the difference was not as drastic, but I still like how that pipe sounds. The louder the better :-)
 
I'm using the Hot Bodies pipe myself, and I've had great luck with it. It sounds great, and the power seems to be up. The plastic one doesn't allow the system to "breath" like it should.
 
I had the ribbed pipe on my SS and I changed to an XTM one piece. ALot quiter and more power. I port matched and polished the header also.

My old ribbed pipe has a port matched/polished header on it also.

I may sell it.
 
Sorry for the dumb question but what do you mean when you say that you have port matched the header ?
Am i right in thinking that you have machined the bore of the header.
Please let me know.
Thanks.
 
Basically I painted my header, where it mates to the engine, with a sharpie.

I then pressed it onto the exhaust port on the engine and this marked the material to be removed on the header. I had the gasket on while doing this.

I confirmed the inprint with my dial calipers and found that some material needed to be removed to "match" the engine exhaust port to the header inlet.

I used a dremel to do this. First I used the cone shaped stone to remove material and then I used 600g sandpaper to 1200g sandpaper, by hand to smooth out the roughness. The rougher you are with the stone, the more hand sanding you have to do btw.

Once I was happy with the sanding I used the small buffers with polishing compound to make a mirror finish as far as I could reach inside the header and through the other side that connects to the pipe.

I've done the mirro finish on exhaust ports of real V-8's to help eliminate carbon buildup. Didn't do that on the intake side though.

Results: Bottom end, not much change. None noticable.

Midrange and Top-end was noticable. I.E. My friend who runs a T-Maxx 2.5 with an Associated tuned pipe was commenting on the fact that he thinks my SS is faster than his T. At the time, my truck was not shifting into 2nd gear. A problem I fixed this weekend btw. We bash off-road with a ramp so the story may be different on hard surface.

We'll air them out and I'll let everyone know the outcome. I'm running the 15/49 gears.

My thoughts are; Let the tuned pipe take care of the backpressure and not the header. Make sure not to go overboard on how much is taken off the header during the matching process. The goal is to provide a smooth transition from the exhaust port of the engine to the header to eliminate turbulence.

I'm happy with the results I saw.

:thumbup:

Hope this helps.
 
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