Basically I painted my header, where it mates to the engine, with a sharpie.
I then pressed it onto the exhaust port on the engine and this marked the material to be removed on the header. I had the gasket on while doing this.
I confirmed the inprint with my dial calipers and found that some material needed to be removed to "match" the engine exhaust port to the header inlet.
I used a dremel to do this. First I used the cone shaped stone to remove material and then I used 600g sandpaper to 1200g sandpaper, by hand to smooth out the roughness. The rougher you are with the stone, the more hand sanding you have to do btw.
Once I was happy with the sanding I used the small buffers with polishing compound to make a mirror finish as far as I could reach inside the header and through the other side that connects to the pipe.
I've done the mirro finish on exhaust ports of real V-8's to help eliminate carbon buildup. Didn't do that on the intake side though.
Results: Bottom end, not much change. None noticable.
Midrange and Top-end was noticable. I.E. My friend who runs a T-Maxx 2.5 with an Associated tuned pipe was commenting on the fact that he thinks my SS is faster than his T. At the time, my truck was not shifting into 2nd gear. A problem I fixed this weekend btw. We bash off-road with a ramp so the story may be different on hard surface.
We'll air them out and I'll let everyone know the outcome. I'm running the 15/49 gears.
My thoughts are; Let the tuned pipe take care of the backpressure and not the header. Make sure not to go overboard on how much is taken off the header during the matching process. The goal is to provide a smooth transition from the exhaust port of the engine to the header to eliminate turbulence.
I'm happy with the results I saw.
:thumbup:
Hope this helps.