cockaynejohn
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i have recently bought a new 3.3 engine for my sons tmaxx and i was just wondering if any one could help me by telling me how to run the engine in.
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How to run in a tmaxx 3.3 engine
- Thread starter cockaynejohn
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rccks
RCTalk Talkaholic
I'm guessing by "run in" you mean "break in". The best way to break in a 3.3 is to follow the guide that Traxxas includes with the engine.
surgemaster1970
Gone - bye bye.
It really depends on how much run time is on the engine...traxxas states that an engine is broken-in after 5 tankfuls of 20% fuel...After that it can be power-tuned and ran hard..
The best way for proper engine operation and longevity is to get extra airfilter elements,,1" wide stiff bristle brush , CRC engine fogging oil , spare glow plugs , some chemical resistant brushes to and a small tackle type toolbox to keep it all in with repair wrenches,tuning screwdriver and extra screws/clutch springs and eventually spare servos/batteries someday.I keep all my supplies in a camo backpack with multi purpose storage bin boxes with flip lid to keep my supplies/tools in....You use the brushes to brush away the dirt that accumulates around the airfilter base and glowplug area to keep the dirt out of the engine...You want to change your airfilter after each hour of engine operation..Youll want to put a tight ty-wrap on the carb base too or it will fall off and dirt could lock the engine up.
After using the r/c for the day you clean the airfilter base and carb mouth good ;-remove filter and squirt some engine fogging oil into open carb...close carb,,add glowplug starter and crank engine for 5 pulls or 5 -10 engine revolutions to displace any old castor oil and methanol from the engine...Residual methanol will absorb moisture and start oxidation of the sleeve/piston and bearings...Dont worry if the engine starts and runs a few seconds;-thats the residual methanol being burnt off and the engine fogging oil protection taking its place...If done and used correctly it will not foul-up glowplugs at all while providing maximum protection..Good luck to you and your son with your r/c truck and lots of good times / fun enjoyment with it too....
The best way for proper engine operation and longevity is to get extra airfilter elements,,1" wide stiff bristle brush , CRC engine fogging oil , spare glow plugs , some chemical resistant brushes to and a small tackle type toolbox to keep it all in with repair wrenches,tuning screwdriver and extra screws/clutch springs and eventually spare servos/batteries someday.I keep all my supplies in a camo backpack with multi purpose storage bin boxes with flip lid to keep my supplies/tools in....You use the brushes to brush away the dirt that accumulates around the airfilter base and glowplug area to keep the dirt out of the engine...You want to change your airfilter after each hour of engine operation..Youll want to put a tight ty-wrap on the carb base too or it will fall off and dirt could lock the engine up.
After using the r/c for the day you clean the airfilter base and carb mouth good ;-remove filter and squirt some engine fogging oil into open carb...close carb,,add glowplug starter and crank engine for 5 pulls or 5 -10 engine revolutions to displace any old castor oil and methanol from the engine...Residual methanol will absorb moisture and start oxidation of the sleeve/piston and bearings...Dont worry if the engine starts and runs a few seconds;-thats the residual methanol being burnt off and the engine fogging oil protection taking its place...If done and used correctly it will not foul-up glowplugs at all while providing maximum protection..Good luck to you and your son with your r/c truck and lots of good times / fun enjoyment with it too....
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traxxas t-maxx
RCTalk Addict
If you go to traxxas website you can pull up the t-maxx owners manual and see the breakin specs.
I have not broken in a Traxxas motor in quite a while, but I can testify to the heat cycle method being the best break-in on all the engines I have had. I used to do the idle through 3 tanks real rich, then the big oval for 3 tanks, but I was rebuilding engines after 10 gallons. I broke in my last on road engine using the heat cycle method (Dynamite .12) and it was still running strong after 20 gallons.
The heat cycle method involves starting the engine up letting it get warm, leaning it until it will smoothly accelerate with the wheels off the ground (by smoothly I mean it clears all the fuel without bogging down) then running it around a parking lot up to about 1/2 throttle, no quick revs keep it smooth, and maybe a couple 3/4 throttle runs for a second or two, for about two min. After 2 min. shut the engine down, put the piston at bottom dead center using the flywheel, and let it cool completely. Repeat this for the first 20 min of actual run time then start increasing run times to 3 min. for about another 5 runs. After this feel free to tune it until it runs good and just be easy on it for the first couple of full tanks, always returning the piston to BDC when not running.
This method has worked great for my on-road engine and for my .28 Axial, and both engines have all kinds of power and really good compression when cold. Don't try to race tune the engine until you have at least a gallon through it, as thi is usually when they find the sweet spot in their wear.
Or you could go with the Traxxas manual if you want to play it safe. I know the heat cycle method goes against everything anyone has ever said about breaking in a nitro, but look at it this way, airplanes and boats have done it this way for years, and I know several guys with 5+ year old engines on the original sleeve and piston.
-AxialLST
The heat cycle method involves starting the engine up letting it get warm, leaning it until it will smoothly accelerate with the wheels off the ground (by smoothly I mean it clears all the fuel without bogging down) then running it around a parking lot up to about 1/2 throttle, no quick revs keep it smooth, and maybe a couple 3/4 throttle runs for a second or two, for about two min. After 2 min. shut the engine down, put the piston at bottom dead center using the flywheel, and let it cool completely. Repeat this for the first 20 min of actual run time then start increasing run times to 3 min. for about another 5 runs. After this feel free to tune it until it runs good and just be easy on it for the first couple of full tanks, always returning the piston to BDC when not running.
This method has worked great for my on-road engine and for my .28 Axial, and both engines have all kinds of power and really good compression when cold. Don't try to race tune the engine until you have at least a gallon through it, as thi is usually when they find the sweet spot in their wear.
Or you could go with the Traxxas manual if you want to play it safe. I know the heat cycle method goes against everything anyone has ever said about breaking in a nitro, but look at it this way, airplanes and boats have done it this way for years, and I know several guys with 5+ year old engines on the original sleeve and piston.
-AxialLST
traxmaxx3.3
RCTalk Rookie
the traxxas break in procedure is pretty straight forward follow dir. shouldnt have n e probloms
try this web link. I did my rebuilt 3.3 trx this way and was running at WOT in less than an hour. I wouldn't do it any other way! i probably have 1.5 gallons of fuel run through my engine and no problems and more power than ever.
http://www.beatyourtruck.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10164
http://www.beatyourtruck.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10164
weezracen
RCTalk Addict
I always brake in my trx mills just as traxxas says right to a T. I never had a prob with any of my mills. I would say that getting a heat gauge would be good if you dont already have one. You can find one for pretty cheap really and they are worth every penny!
Old2.5
RCTalk Racer
did the motor come with the traxxas dvd it says to run 5 tanks through til it breaks in it also says to go half throttle hold for 2 secs and stop do that through 3 tanks and then full throttle hold for three seconds and stop but you could also just drive it around and not bash on it