Hot Racong spool issues????

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More_Power

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So I’ve got a traxxas slash 2wd (traxxas raptor). I personally don’t like the factory differential. So, I installed a spool. It’s been running fine, that is until I put a VXL3S system on it (running a 3S battery). First, it sheared the roll pin for the transmission input gear. Fixed that with a nail. Transmission was still slipping really bad. Went back in to the transmission, pulled the differential, and found that the 2 set screws on the spool must have backed out some and the shaft was spinning with in the spool hub. Realigned the flat spots, lock tighted the set screws, and tightened them down on the shaft. Worked properly for about 10-15 mins. Now the transmission is slipping again, though not as bad. Sanded the slipper clutch pads, pressure plate, and drive hub so it has more bite. I also tightened down the slipper. Same thing. Anyone ever experienced this?
 
Your problem is 3S
 
That’s what I’m starting to come to. But I installed the same spool in a friend of mines slash VXL and he’s had no problems. That truck has only seen 3S. I’m beginning to wonder if it’s the brand thing....
 
Everything is exact the same?
 
Mine is originally a traxxas raptor; XL5 esc and 12T brushed motor. I did the LCG conversion and installed the VXL3S system from my 4wd VXL. My friends truck he bought new as a slash VXL. So I’m assuming both motors and ESCs are identical. Beyond that, his is not LCG, and mine was originally a brushed system.
All I did was put on the brushed pinion gear on to my brushless motor, and install the brushless motor and 3S esc. So I would assume everything from truck to truck, as far as the drive train goes is the same.
 
Fixed it! Here is what I did.

the threads on the spool lug are the same as the set screw/pin that hold the diff end of the axle to the diff. So I drilled a hole straight through the spool shaft and filed it smooth, chamfered it.

E49EBAA4-74FD-4C12-9A2A-88501F92368A.jpeg

Then I trimmed the 2 axle pins i had laying around. Filed off the edges and.

11F341DA-0E25-4844-9D6D-D2DF2A12F828.jpeg

Reinstalled the spool shaft on to the spool lug, red lock tighted the pins, and torqued em down, approximately two grunt/inch is the torque spec.
Re greased everything, put’r back together, and took it for a test rip. No wheelies, just tire smoke! Problem solved!
 
Was there a flat spot before you drilled the hole threw? A set crew just gripping a round shaft is going to come loose. You can see the set screw was spinning on the shaft (Center hole) Drilling straight threw can weaken the shaft if not drilled centered. Now you have put more stress on the shaft. Driving on pavement will be harder and turning will be wider. Posi traction is good for pulling bad for driving. I would have just put a flat spot on the shaft.
 
There was 2 set screws, and 1 kinda flat spot. Apparently hot racing makes a “HD” spool; spring steel shaft VS the one I have being stainless. And the HD spool has a single through pin VS 2 set screws.

yes it was spinning; I was able to hold the spool lug and turn the shaft by hand.

I'm not concerned about weakening the shaft. If it breaks, I’ll get a stronger shaft. At work I have access to titanium, a full machine shop, 5 axis CNCs. And all it takes is for me to fill out a work order and get the material out of the scrap bin. In all honesty, I could probably have the whole assembly machined out of stainless as a single unit VS 2 pieces and 2 set screws.

this thing isn’t meant to be a road racer or track car. All I want it to do is donuts, drift, and rip. Hell, I know the front and rear toe and camber is not optimized. It turns more steering angle one side VS the other. I got this truck for free. Beat on it till it breaks, fix it, repeat. The only reason it has the LCG chassis on it is because I accidentally stepped on it and ovaled the chassis bolt holes that bolt the rear end assembly on to it. And at the traxxas HQ store (1hr away) I get a discount; paid $22 out the door for the LCG conversion kit.
 
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