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J

joneser4u

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I've got a stock pro.15 MAXX. and the stock pro.15 has been nothing but a headache ever since breakin??? its the most inconsistant running engine I've ever owned. Has anyone had problems with the pro.15 running lean then rich without touching the settings? Anyway I wanna ditch the POS easy start system and the pro.15 for another same size engine, thinking about the OS.15CV-RX. I hear alot of this engine and the MAXX? Any input on this or other engines??? No .21's I'm not going that far!!! I want a easy install, plenty of power,low maintance,and nothing thats gonna tear out trannys or diffs! Next I need some suspension work! This thing rolls evertime I try to turn it, I need some input on extended arms,I'm thinking of some supermaxx aluminum,but I hear good things about RPM nylon or what ever they are constructed of??? doesn't nylon flex alot?? I know the supermaxx setup I want is really expensive, how much does the RPM's go for? Any input is appreciated!
 
Joneser welcome to RCNT.

Supermaxx is spendy no doubt, the other thing to consider is the added weight of aluminum. RPM can't be beat for tough, their warranty is unbeatable. You can get your old maxx as wide as the new 2.5's. I would suggest getting cvds if you do go the RPM route. You will have to get new sliders if you don't get CVD's. RPM stuff is also very affordable, esp compared to the supermaxx.

As for engine, the cv-rx is a great little mill, you cannot go wrong. You can go with the 2.5, but they seem really inconsistent to me. I would look at the sirio tx-.18. They make one that is rotary carb and is a direct fit for the maxx. I would also look at Fantom, but if you end up with the O.S. you will definately be happy.
 
I personally wouldn't reccomend the cvd's to you. It sounds like you're just looking to have some fun and kick up a little dirt in the backyard. CVD's are expensive, and in my opinion a waste of money if you aren't going to get serious about real power, or race your Maxx. The stock sliders work great, and untill you actually twist one from too much power, don't worry about replacing them with cvd's.
That Fantom is a great engine with substantially more power than the pro .15, and the same with the OS...and if you're looking for that reliability like it sounds like, OS's are known for just that.
I've got RPM a-arms on my maxx (first gen.) and I love them. If you like to jump and flip and are prone to smashing and smacking into trees, then the RPM's are for you. The material does flex a bit, but that's what makes them almost indestructable. You can't break em man. Sometimes you can catch them on e-bay for killer deals. Aluminum arms look pretty and they're more stiff, but it's heavier and if you happen to bend one you've got to shell out quite a bit more for replacements....but from what I hear about supermaxx stuff, they're pretty dang tuff.
Shocks are almost a must have upgrade for the maxxes. the stock plastic's generally don't hold oil (leak) and need to be rebuilt quite frequently compared to aluminum shocks.
welcome to the party! I hope you saved all of your milk money b/c you're gonna need it when you get hooked on getting that next upgrade....again and again and again and again........hehe
 
man you hit the nail on the head:clap: I'm not going to be competative with my MAXX, its strictly a basher and your advice leads me toward the OS.engine and RPM arms! thanks for understanding and not trying to give me a sales pitch
 
Sales pitch? No one on this forum is trying to sell you anything, and to my knowledege there are very few actual merchant reps on this site.

What we are trying to do is help you out. If you are upgrading to an OS, Fantom or just about any engine out there from a TRX Pro .15, CVDs are a good idea. You do not need to be a competitive RC modeler to need them. With a properly tuned TRX Pro .15 I was over torquing the stock slider axles. I then dropped a Fantom in my Maxx and that was all she wrote. I went out and bought the CVDs within a week.

All I do is bash. And one thing I know to be fact is that constantly repairing your RC gets to be expensive (even if all you are doing is making multiple repairs to the same cheap plastic part).

Now on to other hop ups. Metal has its place in certain areas. I would not waste the money on A-Arms or skid plates unless you intend to go straight to titanium (a very expensive move). Aluminum bends easily under heavy impacts (the kind you might experience in bashing backyard or otherwise), and when it comes to skid plates reshaping them often requires removing them from your RC (a real pain in the...). If you want to get something that it just about bulletproof, I'll recommend anything RPM makes. Why? Because if you break it, they replace it no questions asked.

Things that are good to make metal: Bulkheads, shock towers, chassis braces, bulkhead braces, center skid plate (this is the only one I recommend), steering servo skid plate, tuned pipe, and shocks. If you really want metal a-arms, I recommend only doing the uppers. The lowers are the ones that will get the most contact with ground objects making them more prone to damage.

I could go on and on about the goods, bads and others when it comes to hop-ups. The bottom line is all going to depend on how deep your pockets are. If they are not deep, then RPM products are the way to go. Great quality, near impossible to break, and if you do break it they replace it.

I caution you on one thing...your RC will break, you will have to replace things...the best thing to do is lay out as much as you can afford to get quality upgrades in key areas that will protect and minimize breakage during those "bash" sessions.

One final note...UE SuperMaxx hop-ups and pieces are some of the best out there. The pricetag reflects that quality, but in most cases...it is overkill for the average basher, and not worth the price.
 
LOL...No problem. :D

Another easy solution to widening your foot print is to get some wide offset rims. ProLine make some and RPM does also. They add a half an inch in width to each side (same as buying the extended a-arms or widemaxx a-arms). This would save you the cost of buying new a-arms and axles to match.
 
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Ya, I was already going to get the offset wheels but I really want to go alot wider so I want arms and wheels! It is safe to run the combo isnt it?
 
Yes, it is. But you are talking some cash for rims, a-arms, and axles to go with it. When you are done, it will be really hard to flip (which is your goal). Another thing to help keep it from flipping is to reduce the ride height. Remove pre-load spacers on the shocks to allow the truck to ride lower.
 
OK here is where I'm lost preload clips doesn't increase rideheight they just stiffin the suspension by partially compressing the spring right?
 
Preload spacers do compress the spring. As a byproduct the spring now becomes "stiffer" pushing the shock to its full extension more easily. As a result, the ride height is increased because the shocks are now fully extended and the suspension is at its highest.

If you are still running stock springs on your T-Maxx, take $8 and buy a good set of springs. Trinity Blues and/or Blacks are great. They are much stiffer than the stock springs and pretty much remove any real need for pre-load spacers.
 
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cool I'm running the stockers with a bunch of preload clips 8$ is spent tomorrow
 
I still wouldn't reccomend you spend that much loot on CVD's until you torque your sliders.
 
No CVD's are on my list, with as much torture as I've put my MAXX through I've never broke a slider, if the new powerplant starts twisting them then I might but I'm gonna try the 2.5 sliders first!!
 
You should also look into the O.S. .15 CVX. It's cheaper than the cv-rx and not as powerful, but it still spanks the stock trx pro .15. I haven't broken any stock (1st generation) sliders with the cvx installed (maybe i'm lucky...). I do reccomend RPM just like everyone else. I haven't broken a single RPM a-arm yet! RPM is the way to go for cheap reliable strength. RPM=HIGHLY RECCOMENED
 

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