Heyper 8port needle?

[1meathead]

Just a quick ? the directions say set the low-end needle is out 3.5 turns from flush. What is the part I make it flush to? All the other engines I have had say set it in till it stops and then out this many turns. That is also the way they do the master needle but not the low-end? Thanks

 

[1meathead]

rob you got any info for me? I need to get this right.

 

[RobH]

here is the manual for the Hyper .21 engines:

http://www.ofna.com/pdf/eng-hyper21.pdf

on page two you see like 5 pictures of the carb. The lower left picture shows the LSN at "Flush Setting". 3.5 turns OUT from flush means that you put the LSN as they have it in the picture, they you turn it 3.5 turns counterclock wise. That seems awfully rich, but the break in settings for the 8-port are slobbering rich.

Good Luck,
Rob

(sorry man, but you posted on Saturday. I'm usually only here on work days) I try to log in when I can but it's hard to read all of the posts in a short period of time.

 

[1meathead]

No prob. I had a feeling you would have the info when you came on the net again. I just had to kind of bump it back up because it went almost to the end of the page with no replys.

 

[slothy]

Just so you know (unless you already know) - those are baseline settings yours could be waay diff - so dont get frustrated it ifs too rich or lean, just go from there

 

[1meathead]

Yes that's what I thought. If I set it the way they say it is sooooo rich. That's why I wanted to see if I was setting it right. I get it about right when it is at flush or just a tad in from flush. I just had the piston resized so I wanted to make sure I goit it right.

 

[slothy]

piston resized eh - tell me how that works out for ya.

 

[1meathead]

Well I went from no and I mean no compression to and engine that hold compression and so far runs like new! Even on the starter box it was hard to turn just like when I got it! I'll tell you what for 15.00 you can't go wrong. I am going to buy a new piston and sleeve just to have one when I send one out. The turn around time was not too bad but a week without driving is just too hard.

 

[RobH]

i know we're derailing this topic, but did you inspect your conrod while you had it apart? If it's getting sloppy on the bushings, you'll want to change it out. The conrod take sthe most abuse and it's cheap compared to the cost of a p/s. I fI ever have the piston resoze thing done, I'm going to change the conrod and wrist pin just like you would for a normal rebuild. That conrod gets hammered and if it breaks... over on the RB forums, they suggest you change the conrod every gallon! that's a little silly, but it surely suggests that you should replace the conrod more than the p/s (especially if you're resizing it).

my 2 cents,
Rob

 

[1meathead]

I did check it out and all looks good! Thanks Rob I never thought about that till you brought it up.