Hey Guys what's the secret to the primerless tank

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newnitrofan

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Heya everyone just installed some new parts no not just replacement but some actual hop up parts. I was actually able to afford some after Christmas. Did the spider diff mod, Got bearings for the steering, upgraded to 80WT in the shocks, got some new fuel tubing and filters, Got the new primerless tank and a brand new cooling head. Here's a couple of pics
2321Terraces_pics_185-med.jpg

2321Terraces_pics_187-med.jpg

Ok so now I think I have somewhat of a solid truck. Problem I am currently having is well I can't get the thing started anymore. I have been able to get it to start a couple of times but it will not stay running. I believe it boils down to a fuel pressure problem. I have tried the typical putting your finger over the pipe and pulling on the pullstart and it wouldn't work. So I took out the fuel filters and ran just straight line and Pressure was better but not great. Even blowing into the backpressure line worked but it just isn't holding pressure. Sorry for the long post.
 
Doe u see the fuel going to the carb? Have u checked the glow plug? Have u changed the needle settings?
 
I blew fuel into the carb, I changed the glow plug a few times. Since I put the new head on it I set everything back to factory whatever the 21BB calls for. I blew fuel into the carb through the pressure return line. Yes I saw it go in. Umm I cycled out the glow plugs here and there. I believe it is just not holding fuel at all. At least that is how it appears.
 
I'm at a loss. Give HPI a call.
 
Hey wait a minut here if the tank I had before would hold fuel just fine than it is either the new tank or it is the new cooling head that I just put on. It has to be one of those I am almost sure of it. I am more leaning toward the head shim or spacer thing that go's between the head itself and the case of the motor.
 
Is it the correct head? Did u check for air leaks in the fuel lines?
 
There's something to the tank theory. I got one of the new tanks yesterday and had a similar problem with getting fuel to the carb. I too ended up blowing into the pressure line to get it primed, but I think that was due to having some oil in the needle and filter from not running in over 2 months. Anyway, once I got it running I did have to retune it a bit, and it stayed running.

Check the tightness of the head bolts. If they aren't tight, you'll loose compression and it won't run right.

I'd also take the tank off, but keep the lines attached to the tank and try blowing in the pressure line and see how hard it is to generate airflow. Then get your old tank (assuming that it's still good) and do the same thing to check the difference in how air flows through them. If the new tank is more difficult to move air through, then there might be a problem with it. Either something is blocking the in or out ports, or the ports aren't open fully. Use the same tubing on both when you test it.

When it would run, how did it act? Did it load up and die, or just die, or heat up and die? These would be good indicators of the problem. You did change a major part of the fuel system, and the two tanks are radically different and might have a big impact on tuning.
 
Also make sure that the tank lid is sealed completely. I've had problems with fuel pressure only to find that the lid wasn't fully seated against the opening and was loosing pressure.
 
Error thanks for your help man yeah I have heard great things about these tanks and well that's why I got one cuz I want to be able to run through a whole tank with no problems. I will test tomorrow or the next day it is like 20degrees in my dam garage right now and supposed to be even colder tomorrow night. I still have the old tank and there were no problems with it. It would only run through half of a tank and than die. I also changed the head just because mine was kind of broken. Well not really. I think my problem is stemming from the button head that go's righ underneath the actual head. Think I didn't get a good seal at all on it. Funny though the head bolts on my old head were loose. I mean they were not real tight to begin with. Hmmm this makes me wonder now. Later and thanks again.
 
Not to point out the obvious, but the cold temps that you are trying to start the engine in will have a huge effect on the engine's running. Tell me that you are using a hair dryer or some kind of heat gun to warm that engine up prior to starting it. If not, then the problems may simply be an engine that is not getting up to a stable running temperature.

The rest has been covered rather well by Error.

Another thing...running in really cold temps requires you to richen up your needle settings. That may also play into the problem.
 
HEHE Yes I was using a hair dryer on it. It never started until I did so. I forgot about that for a while. Honestly the temp is 23 degres and going down. I tgubj we will hava a high tomorrow of 27 thanks again.
 
Make certain you are properly compensating for the temps with your needle settings. Richen up the HSN a bit.
 
I had problems starting today with the new 25 tank. I had to blow through it, and found the cap wasn't sealed. I may try and mod a better seal for the cap.

I also hold my finger over the exhaust to get some fuel going, but i wonder if thats good for the engine??
 
Are you sure you dont mean to lean it out in the cold. A few weeks back my friend was trying to start his truck in the cold. and It kept locking up flodded over and over again until he leaned it out and it finally started and ran after leaning it out quite a bit..
 
Colder air is denser air. This requires more fuel to keep the fuel to air mixture the same as it would be on a hot day.

I did not say richen up to the point of choking the engine, but using factory presets as the starting point, you would richen it up a bit for a cold day and lean it out for a hot day.

As for what you had to do to get your friends started, if it worked...then it worked. I'm just telling it the way it is based on my experience and knowledge.

BTW, Welcome to the RCNT. How's the weather up in Scranton these days?
 
get a OFNA inline primer w/stone filter... that's what did when i got the primerless tank
 
I am glad to know that I am not the only one that has had problems with this tank. I will take a second look at the cap. When I blew into the return line I saw fuel go from the tank to the carb it just wouldn't hold it at all. I feel so much better that other people are sharing in my pain right now
 
priming

It takes 5 to 7 seconds to prime mine w/the roto start and thats with the exhaust blocked off. If you can find a piece of hose that fits the "spout" on the exhaust just slip it on the end and blow this will push the fuel to the carb and it wont create a vaccum that draws it back out.
 
OK well it turns out that my NEW fuel line is the culprit. Would've found out sooner but lost a one way bearing this week. I have had no luck with this thing however now it is running and it seems to be running strong thanks all for your help. Late
 

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