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HELP - Newbie - LST2 spin start spins but doesn't turn over motor

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orion6192

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Hello all - new here with a LST2 that has been used very little and has been stored for awhile.

I received it today and when I try to start it, it originally was turning over normally and trying to fire but never started. Okay - not a big deal. I then kept trying to start it and seemed like the compression went away and the spin start just spins and doesn't make the motor try to fire. Once in a while it will "grab" again for a turn or two and then just spin again.

Thoughts? Any help would be greatly appreciated. If you think it's the one way bearing - is the bearing located behind the spin start housing and if it is (or isn't) - who has written a guide on how to take it out and clean it.

Thanks all -

orion6192
DSC_0359.JPG
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I corrected your pic for you.
It's a one way bearing problem. Take off the starter plate and it will be right there. Clean it with denatured alcohol, and clean the shaft at the same time. Some will go in either way, so make sure you put it back the way it came out.
Reassemble it and fire it up.
 
I corrected your pic for you.
It's a one way bearing problem. Take off the starter plate and it will be right there. Clean it with denatured alcohol, and clean the shaft at the same time. Some will go in either way, so make sure you put it back the way it came out.
Reassemble it and fire it up.

I am assuming you mean the plate that has the spin start hex in the middle of it?

Do I have to remove the tuned pipe first to be able to get in at all 4 screws? It seems difficult to get at the bottom screws.
 
Last edited:
Yes....
You might have to. Different engines, different procedures, but all the same end result. It's all part of the wrenching on these things that soon becomes the best part of the hobby. Once you take it apart, you'll know how to put it together.
 
Rolex is right. Sometimes it's frustrating and a pain in the rear when these things break, but the satisfaction of tearing it apart, fixing it and putting it back together is worth it.

I just replaced the main bearing on the lst I bought from a friend. He had an extra one in the tool box he gave me. Apparently it's a good thing to keep handy so if you have to get one, might think about buying a spare.
Mine was doing the exact same thing, but the only thing I noticed at first was the fuel not leaving the tank, later on I noticed the piston not turning....... I'm learning still (and mostly only the hard way...LOL).
 
Thanks - does anyone know the exact size allen wrench needed? I need to buy a longer one - mine is too short and not labeled. I could caliper it and compare.

Side note - when checking the temperature on the car - where do you check? On top of the orange cooling head or down in by the glow plug or neither? I seem to run about 230-250 on top of the cooling head.

Thanks again all -
 
So - here is the situation. I ran the car last night and it was 280-290 near the glow plug using a MicroTek Laser and it was 365F at the front top of the cooling head. So my question is - is it too hot because the top of the cooling head is hotter than the glow plug or do I make sure I keep the glow plug around 230-250? Side note - the glow plug was slightly charred on the bottom :(
 
So - here is the situation. I ran the car last night and it was 280-290 near the glow plug using a MicroTek Laser and it was 365F at the front top of the cooling head. So my question is - is it too hot because the top of the cooling head is hotter than the glow plug or do I make sure I keep the glow plug around 230-250? Side note - the glow plug was slightly charred on the bottom :(

umm...WOW that's quite a difference in such a small space. 280-290 at the glow plug is hot (I noticed my GT2 likes to run a little hot but I still dont run higher than 270). I may be wrong, but I think your gun may be out of calibration. A almost 100 degree difference from the plug to the top of the cooling head just doesn't seem right to me.
 
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