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Re: Thnks

Originally posted by TriGGeR
Thanks alot man i really appreciate all of your guys help... what about the reverse has any1 had any trouble it?. and does any1 know about a fuel filter with a pump?

To answer your question about a fuel pump. Well stock and on most R/C cars it is run off of exhaust backpressure. You can add a fuel pump go to www.perrypumps.com they have great electric fuel pumps for R/c. However most people are only running these on high end R/c's racing applications and such. Later
 
Re: Re: Thnks

Originally posted by newnitrofan


To answer your question about a fuel pump. Well stock and on most R/C cars it is run off of exhaust backpressure. You can add a fuel pump go to www.perrypumps.com they have great electric fuel pumps for R/c. However most people are only running these on high end R/c's racing applications and such. Later

If you will read his question again I think you will see your error, he was asking about a filter with a pump, I am assuming he is meaning a primer pump, if so check out this link, I think this is what you are looking for.........sorry if I am wrong.........

http://ofna.com/acc-fuel.html

what you are looking for is on the top row, far right (part number 10168)
 
something else you miht want to check on the savage when you get it is the tranny. someone at hpi forgot to put an e-clip in mine and it chewed up every gear in it in under a gallon of fuel
 
thnks

you were right i was talkin about the one with the primer pump and i will look at the tranny when i get mine..... i plan on getting it the day after christmas or something like that.
 
Cool man! Over all I think you will be very happy with the Savage, it's a good solid truck, as always if you need advise or help with something we are always here to help, just ask away!
 
what fuel

what fuel should i break it in with and what fuel should i run it with i thought 30 but that might be to strong? and could u give me ur instructions on breaking it in to get the best out of ur engine??

would u recomend like spraying it with a spray gun u said something about denurtured alcohol or sumthin like that how would u get that on ther??
 
Hi,
Heres a link to a great 6v hump pack for the savage which comes with charger and charging lead so no need to take it out the truck:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=19168&item=3164914472
I also agree with the other guys go for the Motorsaver air filter, I would also recomend the Ofna throttle mod as the stock linkage is rubbish. I've fitted the HB heavy duty steel brake hex as the stock one tends to strip very easily, i've also fitted the kevlar dual disc brake setup which is a great improvment over stock and very cheap to do. Buy a couple of extra glow plugs as break-in can be a bit tough on them you will also need a 7.2v stick pack if you are going to use the roto start. Hope this helps..
 
OK, break in..........The book says to use only 20% in the S-25 engine, after break in you can up to 25 or 30% it's up to you, but I just run 20% in mine and I use Trinity Monster Fuel (20%), the 1st tank you are pretty much going to just let it idle through the 1st tank, then you are gonna let it cool, after you run it out of fuel be sure the piston is in the BDC (Bottom Dead Center) position, or the piston is at the bottom of it's stroke while cooling, on the 2nd tank you are going to start to drive it a little, what you want to do is try to keep it in an oval and you want to only give it up to 1/2 throttle only for about 10 feet then let it coast for 10 feet, do this for the entire 2nd tank, then let it cool just as you did on the 1st tank. Now for tank 3, on this one you are going to increase your oval so you can get it up to but not over 3/4 throttle for 15 feet then coast for 15 feet, do this for the entire 3rd tank (I would alternate between 1/2 and 3/4 on this one, say go 1/2 throttle for 10 feet, coast 10, then 3/4 throttle for 15 feet and coast for 15) after you run this tank dry time to cool down again same as before, piston in the BDC position, ready for tank 4? On tank 4 you are going to run it in the oval and go up to but not over 3/4 throttle, this time throttle for 20 feet and coast 20 feet, and keep going up to 3/4 throttle, run this tank dry and.....yup, cool down again, same as before, I would run a 5th tank the same as tank 4, what you are doing is "Heat Cycleing" the engine and making the best possible fit for your piston and sleave, the reason for BDC at cool down is you don't want the piston to block the sleave from shrinkage durning cool down thus giving you best "pinch" or best compression for when you adjust the needles for more power.......now after you run the 5th tank dry and let it cool, it is FINALLY time to start adjusting things and making more power, fill the tank with fuel, start it and run it for about 2 minutes, after it has warmed up you can start leaning out the HSN, turn the screw clockwise about 1/8 to 1/4 turn at a time and run the truck for about 1 - 2 minutes so the needle can reseat for the adjustment, you'll know when you are getting close to the "sweet spot" while adjusting, just wait till it hits 2nd gear for the first time.......:ahh: Do you have a temp gun? If not I would recommend getting one, the run anywhere from $29.00 up to $50.00 for the small hand held ones, the Venom onboard cost $50.00, ofcoarse your LHS may have it cheaper......but a temp gun is going to be one of the most IMPORTANT investments you will make after getting your new Savage, temps should go no higher than 270!
 
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Hate to dissapoint you guys but....

I really thought about this for a while I'm think of getting an ofna buggy! what do you guys think?? here it is http://h1070180.hobbyshopnow.com/products/description.asp?prod=OFN34312# .... I'm sorry all you savage fans out ther but i really like the way this thing runs super fast and awesome handling. well i will post something for help on this as well.. but if u have any advice or anything post here please> thanks

HELL WITH IT!!!!!! those damn things would be to complicated for a newbie so i am going to stick with my SAVAGE!!!! Well i might as well i have learned so much about them. so what do u guys think about that
 
Well I for one am glad you decided to stick with the Savage, there are a few people here that have had a bad time dealing with the Ofna people in the support area.........I think you'll have much more fun with the Savage anyway especially if you are doing more back yard bashing.
By the way this is the charger I use for charging the hump pack in the truck and the battery pack for my roto start, good charger and your LHS can probably get it for about $45.00 http://www.dynamiterc.com/Products/Detail.aspx?ProductID=DYN4044
 
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I have a charger

I have a charger that will charge it fairly fast.. well fast enough for me. on that temp gun you were talking about like i dont really understand when to use it like when would i use and what would be a good temp to try and keep my engine at? what kind should i buy? ohh yeah about breaking in my LHS has this stuff called blue thunder first run fuel he recommended me to use it and do the way you described he said that i will be greatly impressed with the performance of my engine.

Savage 25
Glow ignitor not sure what kind just a standard one
2 quarts of Blue Thunder first run fuel
1 gallon of Eliminator fuel
4 proline 40 series wheels
alluminum hex nuts
hump pack
this http://www.badhorsie.com/products/rechargeable-batteries.html
Fuel filter
Dynomite air filter
Reverse Module
i think thats it not sure i will post if more thats lookin at a good 550 easy

Above is the list of parts i will be getting
 
Cool, myself I just used the Trinity fuel from the first tank, the temp gun........your LHS should have a few differnt varieties to choose from, but they are pretty much the same, after warm up and if you need to do any tunning (run it for about 2 minutes after adjustments) you would take the reading from the top of the glow plug, prety much put the tip of the temp gun down in the top of the heat sink to get a good reading from the glow plug, max temp should never go over 275.......NEVER!!

Safe range temp is between 210 and 275........
Optimum temp for climbing and low speed operation is between 220 and 250
Optimium temp for high speed and performance is between 245 and 275
 
will diff.

Wil 2 different types of fuel effect the way the engine runs.. cause i seen a post sayin you should only you use one kind of fuel and never change types cause it makes ur carb perform better? i dont know just somethin i seen
 
You can change brand of fuel, just be sure it is a good quality fuel, and NEVER go lower than 20%, you can go higher, but you might have to add a shim to the head of the engine, I don't think the S-25 engine book covers that one, and I myself am not sure since as I said before I just stick with the 20%.........but yes you can change brands of fuel.
 
TriGGeR

ok i am going to run that first run fuel to break it in then i am going to stick with eliminator 20% fuel..i should be getting about 500$ for christmas and i have 250 saved now so i will have plenty of money

you mentioned make sure ur piston is a bdc what if it isnt
 
dude, take the time to take out the motor and check it, i did. take the time to do it now or else pay for the damages it will cost if you dont. and check your retaining screw and washer on the front of the crankshaft at the end of the clutch bell. mine came loose, i didn't locktite it, its all good now, just check it all over man. :breakdown
 
Actually I would suggest useing BLUE loc tite on the retaining screw for the clutch bell, just a little extra insurance, otherwise you could strip the clutch bell and possibly loose the front bearing.
A good inspection of the engine is good advise also, I'm guessing that you are familiar with removing and installing the engine since you have a Rustler (is that right?).........might want to remove the roto start housing and check the back plate to be sure it has RED loctite on the screws (for the back plate only) and torque them down, then use blue loc tite when you put the roto start housing back on, but don't over torque the roto start housing screws as they are easy to strip.
 
that didnt really answer my qesution what if when ur tuning it after u run it like the first tank of fuel. road rage says to have ur piston in the BDC posistion..... what id it isnt
 
If it isn't then it isn't, it is not a "must do" thing, it won't hurt if it isn't in the BDC position, just saying that it would give a better pinch effect for the sleave during the heat cycle process, but if it isn't don't sweat it, that won't hurt the engine in any way, it was simply a suggestion as how to break in the engine and try to help you squeeze out every possible ounce of performance you can get, I'm sorry if you misunderstood that before, but no if it isn't in the BDC it's no big deal, nothing to loose any sleep over, your 25 will still run like a raped ape and give you lots of run time, just remember to take the time to clean it after every run, that my friend is just a good habbit to get in to, dirt around the engine will hold in heat (not good in the long run), and dirt in area's that has any oil or grease just promotes premature wearing and cost money for early repairs.
 
HMM

well i have had some people tell me that RTR savage breaks alot
 
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