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help install o.s 18tz in jato

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cernst29

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Can someone please help? I just got a new o.s 18tz for my jato and need done advice on installing it
 
Pretty easy, pull the old engine, swap over the flywheel, clutch and bell gear and re-install it all. Should only be about a 30 minute project. Read the manual on it and it will show you most of what you need to know. Should be a screamer with that engine. I loved the .18TZ. Great little engine.
 
frickenjoey said:
Pretty easy, pull the old engine, swap over the flywheel, clutch and bell gear and re-install it all. Should only be about a 30 minute project. Read the manual on it and it will show you most of what you need to know. Should be a screamer with that engine. I loved the .18TZ. Great little engine.
Click to expand...

It is pretty easy, but not that easy. It can be tricky to get the gear meshed correctly, especially if you don't know what your doing.


There's a few key things to remember...
-When tightening down screws, tighten each screw, little by little, in an "X" pattern. I do this for everything on the motor, and don't forget to do it on the engine mount when tightening it down onto the chassis

-The gear mesh, like I mentioned earlier can be tricky for people who have not done it before. Since you have never done it before, use the paper trick. There's a link lower in the post to help you, but I have a couple tips for you. When I'm setting my gear mesh, I already have the engine locktited down to the mount, then I loosely tighten (make any sense?) down all 4 screws that hold the mount to the chassis, so then the mount will not move out of place but you can still make small adjustments by moving it by hand. Once your done with the paper trick and you think the mesh is good, try to spin the spur gear, check for any binding, if it does not spin freely then mesh is too tight. To be honest though, I don't use the paper trick anymore and I have never had problems.

-Locktite! Use it or you are setting yourself up for a disaster! I use the blue locktite on all 8 of the engine mount screws (4 that hold engine to mount and 4 that hold mount to chassis)

-Everyone's setup is different on their vehicles. But just make sure you have as much installed on the engine before you put the engine in. What I mean is, don't get the engine all locktited down and then notice you can't get to the header screws to tighten it down because something is in your way. It would suck to get it all down and then find out you have to pull it and do it all over again, almost happened to me when installing my new 2.5R into my tmaxx.

That's all that I can think of off the top of my head, I hope this helps. Here's the link to the paper trick....
http://www.rccoh.com/rc.how-to/set.spur.mesh.html
 
From experience paper truck gets the mesh to tight its better to go off of feel and sight if you can see the teeth between the bell and spur which on a jato i believe is no problem. You want it just to were the bell teeth arnt bottoming out on the spur. and make sure your bell isnt crooked to your spur or you will eat spurs like crazy.
 
andydrew39219 said:
It is pretty easy, but not that easy. It can be tricky to get the gear meshed correctly, especially if you don't know what your doing.


There's a few key things to remember...
-When tightening down screws, tighten each screw, little by little, in an "X" pattern. I do this for everything on the motor, and don't forget to do it on the engine mount when tightening it down onto the chassis

-The gear mesh, like I mentioned earlier can be tricky for people who have not done it before. Since you have never done it before, use the paper trick. There's a link lower in the post to help you, but I have a couple tips for you. When I'm setting my gear mesh, I already have the engine locktited down to the mount, then I loosely tighten (make any sense?) down all 4 screws that hold the mount to the chassis, so then the mount will not move out of place but you can still make small adjustments by moving it by hand. Once your done with the paper trick and you think the mesh is good, try to spin the spur gear, check for any binding, if it does not spin freely then mesh is too tight. To be honest though, I don't use the paper trick anymore and I have never had problems.

-Locktite! Use it or you are setting yourself up for a disaster! I use the blue locktite on all 8 of the engine mount screws (4 that hold engine to mount and 4 that hold mount to chassis)

-Everyone's setup is different on their vehicles. But just make sure you have as much installed on the engine before you put the engine in. What I mean is, don't get the engine all locktited down and then notice you can't get to the header screws to tighten it down because something is in your way. It would suck to get it all down and then find out you have to pull it and do it all over again, almost happened to me when installing my new 2.5R into my tmaxx.

That's all that I can think of off the top of my head, I hope this helps. Here's the link to the paper trick....
http://www.rccoh.com/rc.how-to/set.spur.mesh.html
Click to expand...

Thats a bit confusing, you tell him to use the paper trick,then tell him you dont use it any more?? Go to Youtube and type in nitro engine change, it will explain step by step how to change it, As Joey Stated above, its a simple process,even for someone who hasn't done it before.
 
andydrew39219 said:
Once your done with the paper trick and you think the mesh is good, try to spin the spur gear, check for any binding, if it does not spin freely then mesh is too tight. To be honest though, I don't use the paper trick anymore and I have never had problems.
Click to expand...

I told him to use the paper trick, then check for binding. I guess I should have been more specific though.

Use the paper trick to get a ballpark mesh, then check for binding and back the engine off if needed. Heck, the first time I set my mesh I only used the paper trick and called it good, still never had problems.
 
Maybe I have just done it too many times but to me it is pretty simple and straight forward. I just don't see anything ultra complicated about it. Most difficult thing is figuring out the clutch shoes the first time especially if you have a 3 shoe. The worst case you might have to shim the flywheel a little if everything does not line up right. The best way to learn it is to just bust it wide open and do it. If you have a hard time remembering how things go back, take pictures of stuff....
 
I really really really appreciate the advice, i just have a couple more questions, i can use the same gears that i had in my jato? And i heard that i had to do some modifications to the crank shaft threads to make it work, do i have to do that does anyone know
 
Oh, yeah you'll have to make it work with a trx clutch. Traxxas sells a shaft that screws on, pretty sure it's part #tra4844.
 
I heard that i had to grind the first 2 threads on the crankshaft of the o.s 18tz so the clutch bell will fit on there is that true?
 

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