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Coach Z
RCTalk Addict
There is a sticky in the engine section here that is the heat cycle method which is pretty much the accepted method.
https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=42716
https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=42716
- Thread starter
- #4
hi,
in the manual :during the first tank the wheels should ideal. i tried that but the engine stops after 4 seconds. if i open the crab a little then the wheels starts moving. some say that break in can be performed by running the truck on the groud for 2 mins interval below half throttle.. please suggest.
in the manual :during the first tank the wheels should ideal. i tried that but the engine stops after 4 seconds. if i open the crab a little then the wheels starts moving. some say that break in can be performed by running the truck on the groud for 2 mins interval below half throttle.. please suggest.
HeartBreak
RCTalk VIP
It's all personal preference. If the engine is shutting off after 4 seconds, you may need to lean the low end needle very slightly. About literally a hair. About 5 degrees of rotation clockwise. From there, you might also have to raise the idle a hair. Just enough to keep the engine running.
It will loosen up over time and run the entire tank through. My F4.1 was a nightmare for the first two tanks, and now it's a very reliable engine.
It will loosen up over time and run the entire tank through. My F4.1 was a nightmare for the first two tanks, and now it's a very reliable engine.
- Thread starter
- #6
Hi,
I Tried Breaking In The Engine But I Faced A Few Problems:
1. During My First Tank The Engine Used To Stall Immediately After 3-4 Seconds. I Ajusted The Servo And Opened Up The Crab A Little. The Enigne Did Not Stall, But It Was Not The Idle Speed, The Wheels Were Moving .i Also Adjusted The Low End Needle To A Hair . What Could Be The Cause.
2. When I Started With The Second Tank, The Engine Is Stalling When I Hit The Throttle Genlty To 1/4 . What Ajustments Should I Make ???
Please Help As I Am Stuck Up.
Thanks
I Tried Breaking In The Engine But I Faced A Few Problems:
1. During My First Tank The Engine Used To Stall Immediately After 3-4 Seconds. I Ajusted The Servo And Opened Up The Crab A Little. The Enigne Did Not Stall, But It Was Not The Idle Speed, The Wheels Were Moving .i Also Adjusted The Low End Needle To A Hair . What Could Be The Cause.
2. When I Started With The Second Tank, The Engine Is Stalling When I Hit The Throttle Genlty To 1/4 . What Ajustments Should I Make ???
Please Help As I Am Stuck Up.
Thanks
HeartBreak
RCTalk VIP
1.) This is perfectly normal. A slightly raised idle is alright, as long as the tires weren't going full-out. This is caused by clutch-drag, and again, is normal. As long as you had a nice sized puddle of unburnt oil on the ground (something that looks like an Exxon oil spill), you are more than safe.
2.) Lean the upper (main) needle just a hair. Just enough to keep it from stalling. Keep an eye on the temperatures when doing this. It is perfectly normal for the engine to be overly rich from the factory; HPI sets them that way to lower the risk of con-rod-popping. Doing this, you'll find that the engine can idle slightly lower. However, don't get carried away with leaning the engine out too much.
After the first 6 tanks or so, the engine will start to come around. Don't give up on it. Stick with it, and you will enjoy it for a long time to come.
2.) Lean the upper (main) needle just a hair. Just enough to keep it from stalling. Keep an eye on the temperatures when doing this. It is perfectly normal for the engine to be overly rich from the factory; HPI sets them that way to lower the risk of con-rod-popping. Doing this, you'll find that the engine can idle slightly lower. However, don't get carried away with leaning the engine out too much.
After the first 6 tanks or so, the engine will start to come around. Don't give up on it. Stick with it, and you will enjoy it for a long time to come.
Last edited:
A lot of engines are stubborn during the break in period. What I've done with Savages in the past, during break in, is remove the wheels to take the shake out of it if it needs a higher idle to keep running. Same process, less to deal with.
- Thread starter
- #9
hi,
thanks for the help. i have now done 4 tanks. can i now lean the high end needle ? or should i continue with the same settings. the engine at every tank is performing better. the engine still stalls sometimes but not much.
one problem i am facing is that, when i apply the brakes the engine stalls. what could be the possible cause???
thanks once again.
thanks for the help. i have now done 4 tanks. can i now lean the high end needle ? or should i continue with the same settings. the engine at every tank is performing better. the engine still stalls sometimes but not much.
one problem i am facing is that, when i apply the brakes the engine stalls. what could be the possible cause???
thanks once again.
You need to adjust your idle screw with the brakes applied. Since throttle and brake are done with the same servo, you need to make sure that applying the brake does not close the carb below the idle setting.
It also sounds like the engine is starting to come around. Keep it up for a few more tanks and don't be looking for all out performance too quickly. Take your time with the break in. That's the most important thing right now.
It also sounds like the engine is starting to come around. Keep it up for a few more tanks and don't be looking for all out performance too quickly. Take your time with the break in. That's the most important thing right now.
thanks to heartbreak I've got my 4.6 rtr good and fine, i did 2 tanks idle, 4.5 tanks on slowish circles
then 2 tanks up and down my road
but the acceleration takes a bit long than normal and i dont think its doing the full speed thing
anything i should change?
then 2 tanks up and down my road
but the acceleration takes a bit long than normal and i dont think its doing the full speed thing
anything i should change?
