HB Dirt Demon .26

[xmontalvoa]

I did the break-in in a friend's dirt demon, everything was ok after 5 tanks......then the rotostart turns freely......I take off the engine, take off the back plate and fount that the one-way bearing have a crack.......too bad.

Fot temporary fix the problem we put 'bearing lock tite' and works like a charm.

I buy a Savage one-way bearing and hoping it fits.....

The dirt demon runs like hell, I like my savage driving experience more than dirt demon and t-maxx.

Excuse my poor english...I'm doing my best.

 

[superfly]

The traxxas 4011 one-way bearing works.

 

[DUBSTER0199]

UPPER A ARMS

EVERY TIME I HIT ANY KIND OF JUMP W/ MY DIRT DEMON, I SNAP A UPPER A ARM, DOES ANY BODY KNOW OF ANYONE WHO WOULD BE INTERESTED IN SOME ALUMINUM OR TITANIUM A ARMS FOR THIS TRUCK, I'M GONNA HAVE THIS GUY MACHINE ME UP A COUPLE FOR MYSELF.

 

[SilentHunterKellen]

well first off, shouting isnt gonna help you get customers, and second of all-F/S Fourm is a good place. Try posting something like-"Custom Machined A-Arms for HB-Dirt Demon"
And Be sure not to shout.:argue:

 

[dmckie]

need more info on dirt demon bought one had my lhd break in eng
the pin in cvd fell out been waiting two weeks now i should just go pick it up and make my own damm pin. i should of bought a savage 25

how fast does the demon go it seems pretty heavy 12.8 lbs

 

[Robie6]

Dirt Demon

Would have posted before but lost my server awhile back. Anywho I bought a Dirt Demon a month ago cause I have a T.Q. & they seemed similar. I was told at the lhs there was a recall on the diff. but bought it anyway cause I have a shop & know a little about the workings of rc-trucks. The instructins say the truck should roll in neutral about 5', no way. My tires were locked dead up!! so instead off being pissed I took the whole truck apart (would have anyway). Both diff's were shimmed totaly backwards pinning the pinion against the ring gear on both front & rear boxes! & the planet gears were shimmed so tight the diff case was jamed against the housing. A bad thing for the novice (me included). using my car mechanic exp. I re-shimed both f. & r. diff's, they rolled fine on the chassis without the trans, engine, or drive shafts (those diff gears look like they were cut with a blow tourch). A soon as the trany went back in the truck locked up again! I found the f. & r. central bushing (70265 & 66) were different in height, so flat sanding a tad off the rear about .005 brought them in-line & installing the center shafts to the diff's the truck rolled 6'. Now some wizard at Hot Bodies had used "RED" loctite on the whole truck so heads-up when your checking things, I had to drill out 2 set screws because of that.
Wheel alignment out of the box was plain insane being toed out (f. & r.) to the point of shurly wearing the treads out in short order & caster was as bad. With all back together (BLUE LOCTITE) & running the 1-way-bearing in the roto start self destructed but I dont think its Hot Bodies fault for that. The same bearing is in my Torq-21 & its fine after many starts, maybe the difference between the pull-start & elec. start has different pressure on the bearing??
Hot Bodies should do away with the 3 needle carb. Those 2 needles on the low speed side can make you crazy & there break in instructions on the engine are worthless. I run my new engines off the truck on a test stand with fans & a slight load (to simulate being in the truck) a temp guage & heat cycle at least 3 tanks, before tuning it. Its alot easier to work on & when it goes in the truck it'll start & run with just a fine tune.
Its really to bad Hot Bodies really craps together this truck. All in all its a good sturdy truck with a balls out motor. They really need to get someone in there who knows & cares about putting these things together or if they want to hire brain dead assemblers just make a "kit" so we can put it together ourselfs-RIGHT. I tried to call them once soon after my purchase cause there pretty close to me, but the girl said all the tech's were in a meeting, never did call back, it would of been a waist of my time. Truck runs great now except for that 1/10 body they slapped on a 1/8 truck, later (sorry for the bad spelling)

 

[dmckie]

Yes the 10 scale body is the first thing to go, I'm putting on a mrc thunder king 8 scale on. i havent been doing any running yet, do to the weather plus I've been going through the whole truck getting all the bugs worked out

 

[Robie6]

Dud Demon

Your right dmckie. Any RTR should be complety dis-assembled & gone through. I learned that with my 1st truck. It took itself apart leaving the back yard-lol. Watch the universal joints, mine to had the pins fall out. Knowing it would take a year to order new ones, I made my own using piano wire the same size as the holes for a zero fit then filed flush. I wish H.T. had used a metal gear steering servo, I have one & replaced it first thing. I have a little trouble finding 1/8 bodies. I have a Parma grave digger on the T.Q. Bodies seem to get waisted pretty quick on a off road MT so I'm just going to repaint the outside of the T.Q. 1/8 & use it. The D.D. clutches seem to be the racing type which mine didn't engage under 1/8 throtle so I re-adjusted the springs, works great. The shocks are the same as the T.Q. but I think they used vegitable oil cause if I pushed down on the truck it stayed there-lol. Now they have 80w in them. As I said, the D.D. seems like a good truck, I like it (now) plus it comes in a sturdy box that I cut a hole in for the cats, they love it. If your in the snow there, somewhere on 1 of these rc sites I saw a way to make chains for the tires

 

[dmckie]

your right i think they used mazola for oil . my box wont even make a good cat house because oil leaked all inside of it.

 

[Robie6]

lol, sorry your having problems. If I can be of any help feel free to let me know. I'm no wizard but most things are pretty simple once ya understand what there suposed to do. Those 2 needles on the low side are a waist, they both do the same thing-lol, later-------:jet:

 

[dmckie]

thanks robie, the problems havn't been to bad. nothing i havnt' been able to deal with . when i decided to get this truck and try this hobby out i kind of figuerd that i would have a few problemms but i figured that would be half the fun .(fixing them).like i said i havnt ran it that much yet its been broke in +about 3 or 4 tanks i still need to do some adjustments on the engine I'm going to go through and re-greese the tran and the diffs while its raining ill get back with you if i need any help thanks

 

[Robie6]

Its great your having good luck w/your truck. I'm glad you understand things can go wrong. I've been bench running my .26 the first 3 tanks doing the break in, its a bunch easier. I had some trouble with the (2) needles on the low end, I dont feel the mid-range is needed. if your having trouble with the clutch not coming in soon enough like mine, squeeze the springs a tad, it works. While at the lhs I picked up a 14 tooth clutch bell from a Savage. Its the same as the D.D. & should increase my top end, we'll see. Got it all back together last night & planning to run it today, I'll let ya know, Robie

 

[picit]

I have a brand new one in the box I need to sell, I've already got way too many MT's and my wife bought me another for x-mas so if you're interested e-mail me at [email protected]

 

[pat]

my savage 25 goes mad when i start it