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GT2 Sand build basher.

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Bryson

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  1. Bashing
Well as some may know I just got a Team associated GT2. What I plan on doing over a period of time, is lungsford turn buckles, rpm arms, panter paddles, And I want to shoehorn a 0S.18 in there some how. Is it possible. I know they say a .12 is plenty of power, but for what I'm doing I want as much power as possible. There is a dry river bead close to my house and during the summer months it dries up and leaves just a big sand bead. I wish I could aford a 5b but the GMC fund wont alow me to spend that big right now, So a stadium truck is going to be my basher in the sand. The truck I picked up is really clean. Ill post some clean pics up later. I was just wondering what you guys thought would be a good mill with alot of power. I'm hoping monkey tunes in becuse I know he used to race his gt. Or even the guy that fit a big block in his lol. Anyways thanks for any help.
 
OS .18CVRX. They make a crankshaft adapter to make it fit the GT, but you'll have to cut the crank.
 
I looked at that one, I did like it, buut I'm just worried about cutting the crank. It sounds intemidating to me lol. I might look into a rb also beings I get a discount on them.
 
Cutting the crank isn't hard. First, make absolutely sure you need to cut it. I think I read somewhere you can use a pilot shaft engine in the GT2. It's the GT1 that needs the cut crank...

The .18 should have the same size crankshaft as a .12, since it's still considered a smallblock (borderline mid-block).

Steps for cutting crankshaft:

You'll need a dremel (with cutoff disk), a cutoff nut (usually comes with the engine, but AE sells one; look in the parts section of the manual for part number), and a humble ziplock baggie. Place the engine in the baggie and seal the top. Now, push the crank shaft through the baggie, so it sticks out. Push the baggie all the way to the bearings, so you have all the shaft exposed. What this does is seal the engine up, so you need not worry about metal filings.

Now, thread your cutoff nut on all the way, and get your dremel. Take very short nips at the crankshaft. This will help prevent overheating the crankshaft and bearings.

Lastly, to clean up the threads, simply remove the nut. Wipe down the baggie with a rag, and then remove the engine. You now have a cut crankshaft.
 
I have been looking in to maby going race on this build as of now. I have been reading most of the post over on the gt10 website and its sounds fun. I'm torn between .12 or .18 though. Also I really like the dynamite platinum .12 and the price is right, then they make a hard coated pipe for it too. This would be cool because with the blue arm it will look like my racer revo. I dont know though, the bigy question remains at .12 or .18. I cleaned this truck verry throughly tonight, and only found one flaw on it which dosent really matter, it had a left cracked rear arm. Oh well, there geting replaced anyway. I had to rewind the pull start that was a royall PITA for shure, and I lost 2 inches of pull cord too darn it all. Hopefully tomarrow I can get out and start this thing though, to fart around with and get used to. I love the look of a staidum truck, If I had it to do over, after my little rc18 3 years ago, I would get a gt instead of a revo. Oh well, now I've got both and no need to look back. I'm already geting ready to paint a custom lid to match my revo too. I'm going to have twins it looks like when this gets done lol.
 
Well a little update. Today I went to the hobby shop after stoping by pep boys, and spur of the moment, I bought rpm arms, and the little bumper. Next week I'm going to be getting the lungsford stuff. I also found the engine that I want, its a LRP .18, and I'm just in the hunt for a pipe. I like the dynmite platnum to match my jp3 but it dosent have the right header port for it. I just have to find a hard coated pipe then ill buy the motor. Id post pics but I started tearing it down last night, again spur of the moment, and now its in a hundred peaces. lol.
 
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