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Damon

RCTalk Racer
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What's a good pipe to get for my rc10 gt. I'm running the old school .15 associated engine. I had a O.S. Max .12 but then the compressions completely gone, its the .15 stock as more power. Should i get a new engine or a cooling head for it? O yea this is what I'm getin for it:
alum front and back arms,
alum front and back bulkheads
mip cvd (have)
titan turnbuckles
upper chassis
alum front and rear shock towers

any suggestions? also i find it amazingly difficult to drive this beast after driving my rs4 3, the gt does not turn, anything i can do?

damon
 
Bare in mind that putting aluminum parts on has advantages and disadvantages. They do look cooler and are stronget than composite or graphite. The downside is that they can bend and have no give when they are subject to stresses. This meaning, that any forces put into the aluminum parts will be transfered to the part they connect to. or with. An example would be the arms. In the case of a hard impact, the forces to the arm will be transfered to the hinge pins and then the bulkheads. If the bulkheads are aluminum also, then to the screws in the chassis and then the chassis itself. Something has to give eventually and it can be any of the parts or several. For bsahing and racing, I beleive that the composite or factory standard parts are better. They give and will bend or flex and generally return to the original shape and if they do break they are much cheaper to replace. To each their own, but I shy away from aluminum when possible. I have aluminum shock towers on my Losi GTX and have had to replace the bulkheads several times due to torn out srews. I've had to straighten bent aluminum and even fabricate front shock tower braces to transfer energy to the chassis and not the bulkhead. I would not make that move if I were putting together another truck but I have this one long enough that I leave it as is as long as it runs. I'll go for replacing a $5 part over a $30 part any day.
 
As far as a pipe goes, I'd stick to the Associated #7730. I think it's a great pipe. That's what I have on mine with the stock AE/TTR .15. Seems to be a good match.
As far as turning goes, well don't expect a lot. You're comparing apples to oranges. Your touring car will turn on a dime. But the GT will be a little wider because of the way it's set up. It has bigger wheels to get a bit more bite on the dirt. And it's got tons of caster. When you lay back the kingpins that much, you lose a bit of steering, but gain tons of bite.
 
I thought about having plastic bulkheads to give the shock to go and break. On the back arms I'm leaving the connecter bulkheads to the body plastic due to i break about 50 a week... Should i get a new cooling head? The engine runs really really hot, and its the way i like, not to mention its extremely rich. Thanks

Damon
 
Unless you have an OS "blockhead" you should not need to replace it. If you are running rich and still hot, then maybe you don't have enough air flow to the engine. No air over the engine and heat = higher temperatures. Also, the way you drive has a lot to do with it too. Constant full throttle will heat any engine up no matter what head you have or how rich you are running.
 
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