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going crazy please help!

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chevyone

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I have a t maxx 3.3. I'm having an issue getting it started I've always had an issue getting it started, I bought it used. Its definately getting fuel. I've checked the glow plug and that's working. I've recently put new fuel tank and fuel lines, new wiring harness for the easy start, got a new easy start controller, new glow plug, fresh fuel, still can't get it to start. If I pull the air cleaner off and pour fuel straight into it it'll fire for a second and cut back off. Which would lead you to believe it's not getting fuel but I can watch the fuel go all the way to carborator and it still won't start. I've read posts that if the piston and sleeve are worn out it will give you problems starting but everyting I've seen says it gives you issues starting when the motor is warm but I can't even get it started. I've read alot of posts of people having the same issue but I've tried everyting that I've seen in those posts. Does anybody else have any other ideas?
 
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I'd check for a clogged hsn housing. Take the needle out and see if fuel is getting into the carb, not just to it. I bet there's a clog being that it fires when fuel is dumped directly into the carb.
 
I would take your carb off and break it down, remove all the o-rings and dump it off in a small cup of fuel for an hr or two, take some compressed air and blow everything through. clean the needles and put it back together. Set everything back to stock: HSN - 4 turns out from closed, LSN Flush with carb housing, and 1mm Idle gap (the diameter of one end of your stock body clip).

If she still wont fire up maybe consider buying a carb rebuild kit or buying a new carburetor...Or fork out some doe and buy you an O.S. 11k Carb.

Also since you mentioned it, you can turn your flywheel by hand and see how tight your compression is. You should have a fair amount of resistance when your near TDC (Top Dead Center).

One last thing I can think of is your cooling head may not be sealed properly, but since you said it will fire up when you dump nitro directly into the carb then I doubt that is an issue.

Hope any of this helps....I'm still a newb to the nitro part of the hobby so if I am wrong anyone feel free to correct me. I dont want to be giving out bad advice.
 
i agree about the carb rebuild it but firt things first do the adjustments with the screws first and go from there
 
I baught a brand new t maxx 3.3 from a guy who thought it was junk for $50 and the problem was dirt in the hsn housing. I would take the fuel line that goes from the fuel tank to the carb and leave one end on the carb but take the en of the fuel tank and blow threw it. If you can blow threw or just a tiny tiny bit of air flows then dirt is the problem.:whhooo:
 
Is there a site that anyone knows that will show how to take the card apart ??
 
The carb breaks down fairly simple...I myself am not sure of a site, I googled for a minute and didnt find anything off the top but I'm sure its out there somewhere.

When you take it apart make sure the base where it slides into the motor is clean and free of debris as you dont want any crud falling in the motor.

Remove the ball cup linkage from the carb slide thats attached to the servo. It has a little resistance but it just pops off.

Loosen the nut that secures the carb to the motor and the carb will slide out. Find yourself a nice, well lit spot that is clean and possible even a small tray to work on in the event you drop a small part.

Remove the needles one at a time remembering how they go back together and move slowly as to not loose any small parts. I have not personally taken one of these carbs apart yet but if they are like any other carb you will have small o-rings and springs. The plate around the HSN area can be removed aswell.

Once you have everything apart give the housing and needles a good bath. Be sure not to bend anything and dont go scrapping or sanding on anything either. I would imagine a can of carb cleaner would not hurt the parts but I can't say for sure. Dont get the o-rings in carb cleaner or soak them in the fuel. Just put em off to the side and wipe em down with a clean rag.

After everything is clean, reassemble your carb and throw it back on your truck.

There is a carb angle diagram on the net somewhere, I can't remember where I saw it but I have a picture of it saved on my PC. If you want it I can shoot it over to ya via email.
 
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Ok here is where i am at, I took the carb off, Took it apart cleaned everything and put it back together. It still did not want to start, I kept trying and trying to start and putting nitro straight in carb it would start every time and cut back off after about the third time it kept running and running good. I adjusted all the settings back to factory settings but after about a min when you rev it up it sprays alot of nitro out the exhaust which i don't think is right is the carb just done and i need another? and the issue i would have last season when i was using it is it would take me a while to get it started like now but once i got it started as long as it stayed hot i could keep driving it now problem, I could go through 2 tanks, but once it gets cold again it takes forever to get it restarted any ideas?
 
I'm stumped on this one...I have not had enough experience with nitro engines to know what this problem would be. My guess would be bad carb....Anyone else gotta idea?
 
Maybe you turned the needles in too far and boogered them up. I would turn the low speed needle in 1/8th turn at a time until it idles decent then run it. Leaving the high speed needle rich do speed runs. turn the high needle in little by little until it runs good and is up to temp. Then set the low needle accordingly. You also need to check the tank, and lines to make sure you have exhaust pressure pushing fuel.

It wouldn't hurt to seal the engine, there are write-ups on here about that.

Forget about dumping fuel in the carb, that's not a great idea. Take the pipe-to-tank line off and blow into the tank, watching the fuel move through the line. When it gets to the carb, blow for one second. If that doesn't work hold it at full throttle and blow again for about a second or less. That should prime it.

I think your low needle is too rich.
 
I drop fuel directly into the carb as a way to isolate the problem. If it starts then quits, the problem is the carb, not compression, glow plug or bad fuel.

Disconnect the glow wire and use a separate ignitor. Chances are it will start and keep idling as long as you leave it on. That's a sure sign that it's way too rich on the LSN.
Lean it a little at a time till it continues running after removing the ignitor.
 
I'm with override it sounds like what my 2.5 was doing i resealed it still was hard to start i found a hair line crack in carb base ordered new carb no problem starting i think your carb is your headache good luck
 

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