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Give me the Down Low on ARO

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sbb4us

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I just wanted to know the whole story on WD-40 and ARO. I know (by reading posts) that almost everyone uses ARO instead of WD-40 but I can't help wondering why they say to use WD-40 if the ARO is that much better. I just bought some ARO and used it (mabey I used to much even though I only used acouple drops) but it made my engine harder to start then WD-40. I was reading in one post that someone said that using WD-40 will burn the piston and sleeve. Can someone please explain?
Thanks
 
I jsu have to say that aro is mad for rcs so why not use it. Also I'm thinking that wd-40 is not as thick and has something to do with it. Also aro mit have some other kind of additive in it.
 
WD-40 is crap i used to use it when i started out with rc (2-3 years) on one of my previous cars and i used to get a brownish color on my plugs (rusty stuff) so i said screw it and used ARO ever since and also its made for rc and lso i load up on it aftr a day of bashing id rather hav too much then just enough

Also a great alternative for ARO that works very well because it almost is ARO is marvels mystry oil works wonders on all sorts of other purposes too its the duck tape of oil lol
 
i was reading thru one of my OS engines manuals, and it said that putting ARO in the carb can cuase the o-rings to be damaged, from making the o-rings hard, and then cracking. being that it comes from OS could that be credible? (i still put ARO thru the carb anyway....)
 
well I've never had that problem and i dont see how it could harden them because its oil the most it will do is lude them the nitro will do more harm than the oil i also drop some ARO in the cylinder from where the glow plug goes along with putting some in the carb
 
Wait a minute...... doesn't anyone worry about silicones in their mills? Silica? Sand? Grain? Abrasive? Even at the finest of size.
 
Originally posted by Çh®i§tiªñ
Wait a minute...... doesn't anyone worry about silicones in their mills? Silica? Sand? Grain? Abrasive? Even at the finest of size.
No, I usually throw a small handful down the the throat of carb before each race.
 
I use ARO in all of my vehicals. after i run them, before i pull a brand new engine over just to give it some lube, when I'm storing a engine, when i am putting a engine back together after rebuilding it. IMHO ARO works great.

later
 
I use ARO only if I'm not going to run a mill for several weeks or if I have been running in wet conditions.

An interesting tidbit,
If I'm done with a mill for the season I will usually use ARO then place the mill in a plastic bag. I recently sold a used OS .15 that had been stored this way for over a year to a respected member of this forum. His observation and comments were that the engine was way sticky or gooey when he opened the plastic bag. Once the mill was cleaned, he saw no rust or pitting storage.

Hmmm? does this stuff thicken up after time?
 
Originally posted by FastEddy
I use ARO only if I'm not going to run a mill for several weeks or if I have been running in wet conditions.

An interesting tidbit,
If I'm done with a mill for the season I will usually use ARO then place the mill in a plastic bag. I recently sold a used OS .15 that had been stored this way for over a year to a respected member of this forum. His observation and comments were that the engine was way sticky or gooey when he opened the plastic bag. Once the mill was cleaned, he saw no rust or pitting storage.

Hmmm? does this stuff thicken up after time?

He guys,

Good thread topic. Eddy, After Run Oil's uses general "Petroleum Distillates". The idea as you probably know with ARO's is that it will burn off in the combustion chamber. The afterrun oil will "gunk up" as you've experienced with long term storage. Ironacly, Petroleum disillates are the main ingrident in "Goo Gone" and similar cleaners that remove gummy residues like sticker mess. So yes, it gunks up with time but it's much better IME and IMO then leaving the combustion chamber dry.

The best thing to use for long term storage is a good thin weight gear oil (prefferably) in synthetic but you'll have to take the mill completely apart to clean all the oil out before you fire it up.

FYI for everyone new to nitro, ATF (auto tranny fluid) also works great as a ARO and unlike ARO's containing Petro disillates it WON'T gum up with time. Again, for newbies...the idea is that the oil will burn off. Always be sure to oil your crank bearings too as a failed crank bearing is a great way to destory an expensive nitro engine.

As for WD40, Screw that crap for a plethora of reasons and especially with long term storage.

Peace

Peace
 
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