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Getting to know my revo...

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big jilm

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  1. Bashing
I was going to seal the engine of a used truck I bought a few weeks back when I noticed that the motor mount was broken.
I broke the engine down and got everything sealed and clean. The truck was just filthy so I have the whole back half of the truck completly broken down and cleaned.
Off to the LHS tommorrow to get a mount.

Check out how nasty the rear diff. was...

This is the first time I have done any work other than tuning on any rc. I have managed to get most back together but we will see what happens after I go to sleep and forget where I was..:\
 

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That is a pretty nasty looking diff case. It looks like it smells awful too for some reason. Maybe it's the color and the bits of grass, idk.
Is that a picco mount?
 
That diff does look dirty, but that is the OUTER case of the diff.

That said, if that was my diff unit, I would be climbing the walls (mainly for letting it get like that). That aside I would strip it, strip the diff, degrease, wash down, rebuild with new diff oil, clean the outer diff case, clean the bulkhead inside and out and rebuild. lord only knows what's lurking inside that outer diff casing if its that dirty. It's obvious it was worked pretty hard. In that situation it is better to be safe than sorry.

If you are not sure of something, take photographs at every step and make written notes. That way if you get lost in what you do you have a reference point to work from.
 
That is a pretty nasty looking diff case. It looks like it smells awful too for some reason. Maybe it's the color and the bits of grass, idk.
Is that a picco mount?

Nice...lol , Its just the stock revo mount...

thunder : I got everything cleaned and put back together then I got your post.How much trouble am I looking at if I tear open the diff. housing??? I thought it was sealed but was wrong I guess...
 
er......... put it this way, the outer case protects the diff inside. now, the diff is actually sealed by the main gear sandwiching a rubber gasket between it and the inner diff case.

Your not looking at "much trouble" if you take your time. If your this far in on the strip down, it makes more sense to check the inner diff gears NOW, rather than have to do it later and tear half the truck to pieces again. Diffs have a habit of running dry if they have had oil used in place of the factory grease. Since you don't know the heritage of the truck too well, you don't really know if oil was used ( this is an assumption, so correct me if i am wrong here). Running a diff dry, wears the gears out a LOT faster. Also, diff oils can slow the action of the diff and reduce "unloading" from the wheel that is on the ground on one side to the wheel in the air on the other. some call it "limited slip" when this is done but in truth, it simply slows the diff gears down the thicker the oil gets. I.E 10 will alow more slip than 50K oil.

Trouble ?? well, you need to inspect the teeth of the gears for wear, the bearings for wear or being dry (a dry bearing sounds noisy when spun and spin a lot longer than a fully lubricated new one). Things to look out for when checking bearings is if they feel "Gritty", a sure sign of a problem. If you find a dry bearing, try lubricating it and see if it rolls smooth and plush. if in doubt, swith it out. bearings are cheap, tearing a truck down to repair parts that would otherwise have been ok is heartbreaking and money that could have been avoided

The actual outer housing is not "sealed" as sealed goes. dirt CAN and WILL get into it. Especially water. and water can carry mud and other stuff in aswell.

My advice to that problem, would be to get everything cleaned and use some clear silicone sealant on the meeting faces of the housing and see if you can get a rubber o-ring to fit over the output shaft and behind the output drive cup to help avoid getting water/muck etc in there again.

I kicked myself for weeks after i ruined a set of gears in a buggy diff. i had the whole thing stripped out with the diff in front of me. never did check it. put it all back together after i finished cleaning and the back end started getting noisy. turns out the diff ran dry and the gears wore. a fix i need not have done had i have checked it in the first place.

Do not get me wrong, i am not trying to worry you at all. but opening that diff just to check all is well could save you time and money in the long run.
 
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Thanks for the info thunder... So nice you said it twice...:D

Off to the LHS... Have to drive about 50 miles because the p.o.s. hobbietown near me didn't have a mount...Then back home to try me luck at the diff....

Good thing is this is the spare truck.. My other revo runs fine...:D
 
i edited the double post out.

As i said though, it's worth checking that diff just to be sure that all is well. Don't feel you have to though just because i mentioned it.

I would hate to think I sent someone on a fools errand. however, I'm going on gut instinct and past experience. I recently bough an unfinished 3.3 revo conversion. i distrusted it so much, i stripped it completely and decided to buy all new parts. the spares will mostly end up with a fellow forum member in the US anyway with me buying all new parts bar those i decided to keep, which is not very much. I guess that makes me kind of crazy, but i like to know my rigs are good to go the moment i take them out the front door.

----EDIT----

If it's your spare truck, think of this work as preparation and learning the skills in readiness for maintenance on the other two Revo's. we all have to learn about a new rig sometime in this hobbie, why not on a spare one ?

----EDIT----
 
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I agree with Thunder Tiger on breaking down that diff. You can't get much closer to it than that, and it always feels good to know the diffs are cleaned up.
 
Nice...lol , Its just the stock revo mount...

thunder : I got everything cleaned and put back together then I got your post.How much trouble am I looking at if I tear open the diff. housing??? I thought it was sealed but was wrong I guess...

The diff is no problem at all to take apart, i just put a spool in the rear of mine it was easy.
 
Well, I broke down the diff and every thing looked good. I got everything back together and went out for a test drive earlier this morning...
Runs like a champ... Engine tightened up and got some more power out of it since I cleaned , oiled, and sealed it.. The guy I got it from is running 15/40 on the CB and spur.. pulling wheelies as soon as I fired it up...

Now I have to pull the front apart and give it a good cleaning . Its not nearly as dirty...
Then its time to seal the other rig...

I really enjoyed tearing it all down and seeing how things work and go together. The mills performance improvment made it all worth it and the truck rolls alot smoother since I got the trash out of the drivetrain and rear axles...
Only problem is that its already dirty again.. :)Oh well..
 
The diff is no problem at all to take apart, i just put a spool in the rear of mine it was easy.

A Spool is not a good idea in truth.

Spools really only serve to buck the damage onto other components, worsen the handling and scrub the rear tyres out faster.

The diff is there to serve a purpose. That purpose is to deliver the power accordingly to each wheel in a turn. In a turn, the inner wheel turns slower than the outer wheel, which is travelling further so has to turn faster. a spool locks out that ability to differentiate the wheels speeds (hence the name differential) and both wheels rotate at the same speed in a straight line and in a turn, therefore wearing the rear tyres out faster. It also put a strain on the centre driveshaft to the transmission and in some cases, the transmission aswell.

A spool is the equivelant of just throwing a solid axle into the vehicle, because that, essentially, is what it is. a solid axle to replace the differential.

The differential is also a sacrificial element of the transmission, top avoid bigger more expensive problems. In 1:1 vehicles, it's purpose is also to allow the changing of the crown wheel (the main gear that bolts to the diff case enclosing the inner gears) and the Pinion (the smaller output drive gear) to adjust gear ratio's. An example being changing a pinion and crown wheel with 18/43 (2.388:1) teeth respectively to 17/37 (2.176:1) which increases speed by lowering the final drive ratio.
 
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