Getting the esc and motor ready for 4wd 13.5 stock racing

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DavidB1126

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Getting the esc and motor ready. For stock 13.5 racing (and 17.5 for 2wd) You have to run 0 boost and turbo timing in the esc (or zero timing profile / Blinky mode) so I got that changed in the esc settings. The only thing timing wise you can adjust is on the back of the motor. Currently it looks like I am running 40/43 degrees of motor timing. (Running the motor how it came out of the box) Planning to get to the track I little early after school tomorrow to get used to the motor and adjust drag brake and brake settings if needed.

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I would contact the manufacturer and ask what they recommend to set the timing based on current draw with a motor analyzer.

For example, Trinity recommends 5.6A to set timing which the degree setting is a variable based on rotor strength. As the rotor fades over time you need to increase timing to get the same amp draw.
 
Before I was running the stock esc settings on how it came out of the box so in "Open BL 13.5" profile. It had 25 degrees of turbo timing and 30 degrees of boost timing.

@Bogda89 I know that we were talking about timing once.

New to all these new adjustments. Got a few questions. Would less timing / more timing cause less / more motor heat? Will less / more timing cause more speed or less speed?
Alrighty I see now.
 
Before I was running the stock esc settings on how it came out of the box so in "Open BL 13.5" profile. It had 25 degrees of turbo timing and 30 degrees of boost timing.

@Bogda89 I know that we were talking about timing once.

New to all these new adjustments. Got a few questions. Would less timing / more timing cause less / more motor heat? Will less / more timing cause more speed or less speed?
Alrighty I see now.
More conservative timing like 30 to 35 degrees will be more efficient with good torque but less top speed. I am talking about fixed timing on the can for 2 pole motors. But for higher top speed it depends of the motor, usually they like between 45 and 50 degrees. If you race blinky you can chose only one fixed timing on the can, so that's why you would use higher timing. Set on the can.

If blinky mod (fixed timing on esc) is not enforced you can set lower timing, for example 35 degrees on the can and use most efficient range on tactical slower portion of the track, but you can set turbo to kick in when you need top end on a straight.

I am not going to go into detail but you can not go more than 60 degrees combined timing (fixed timing on the motor plus turbo/boost), because you will actually degrade performance or maybe even burn motor and ESC).

If you want to experiment, I would reduce fixed timing on the motor to 35 degrees and add around15 degrees of turbo, instant with slow 3 degrees per 0.1 second of ramp up
If you have to run blinky I would ran how it's set from the factory and if you feel that you are a little slower than other guys and motor is not too hot after 5 or 6 minutes race, you can add couple degrees on the can and see if there is any difference
 
mechanical end bell timing is critical to hit the sweet spot between efficiency and power band... many folks error on putting more timing than is necessary which doesn't increase power, it increases heat which looses efficiency and causes the battery to drain faster which makes you lose punch toward the end of a main and make you slower overall.

Every motor is different, there is no specific degree setting that everyone makes, the amp draw is what is used to find that peak setting and every motor manufacturer knows what the amp draw needs to be for their motor.

Trinity = 5.6A
Tekin = 3.2A

Those are the only 2 brands that I know off the top of my head for their recommended peak settings
 
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