Getting Started

[Rush Evo man]

Choosing your car

When you choose your first car, try and find a beginners car.
A nice normal standard car will be fine. Not hopped up, not to
fast, not with to much electronical buisness. Also try to find a
ready to run car.

Equipment you will need

Like i've also said, if your a beginner, buy a ready to run car.
Want to know why? Because i'm going to tell what you will
need when you buy one. Well, here we go. You will need:

A glow plug heater

Nitro & methane fuel

12 AA bateries or more

Air filter cleaner (if you want)

Breakin Process

Firstly, Fill up the fuel tank with fuel, put the car on a stand
so all 4 wheels are off the ground then start the car and wait
until the tanks empty. Do this twice.

Then, Fill the tank up with fuel and drive it around in wide
circles until it has run out of fuel. Also repeat this twice.

Lastly, fill up the tank with fuel & drive in up and down
doing quick full throttle bursts.

Now you are ready to play. Yippee!!!

 

[phx123]

Very good point. I had a friend of mine read it over and over til it sunk in.He wanted to spend 1000's on something he might not like. So he decided on a HPI rush evo....How do you like yours?

 

[RatzoRC]

Choosing your car

Also try to find a
ready to run car.

Equipment you will need

Like i've also said, if your a beginner, buy a ready to run car.
Breakin Process

Firstly, Fill up the fuel tank with fuel, put the car on a stand
so all 4 wheels are off the ground then start the car and wait
until the tanks empty. Do this twice.

Then, Fill the tank up with fuel and drive it around in wide
circles until it has run out of fuel. Also repeat this twice.

I don't agree with these statements.

I would suggest a kit, and here's the reason why.
When you build a kit, you get a hands on feel on how the car goes together, and know what makes the car move.
Also, when you break, you'll know how to take the car apart and put it back together because you've already done it.

As for breaking in the engine, there are many ways to do it. Not just the way you mentioned.

It was a good idea to try to help, but these are merely your opinions.

 

[dannyd]

I don't agree with these statements.

I would suggest a kit, and here's the reason why.
When you build a kit, you get a hands on feel on how the car goes together, and know what makes the car move.
Also, when you break, you'll know how to take the car apart and put it back together because you've already done it.

As for breaking in the engine, there are many ways to do it. Not just the way you mentioned.

It was a good idea to try to help, but these are merely your opinions.

I'm with you on the kit. even though i got a rtr, i tore it apart with in the first week. i think he said rtr probably because you would have to buy a motor and remote which might end up being more then a rtr.

as for the breaking in, what he said is said in the hpi booklet when you buy one of their rc's. thats what mine said when i got my nmt. i prefere the heat cycle though.

 

[Rush Evo man]

the heat cycle?

can u please inform me in that one. What do u do?

 

[Spazz]

I don't agree with these statements.

I would suggest a kit, and here's the reason why.
When you build a kit, you get a hands on feel on how the car goes together, and know what makes the car move.
Also, when you break, you'll know how to take the car apart and put it back together because you've already done it.

As for breaking in the engine, there are many ways to do it. Not just the way you mentioned.

It was a good idea to try to help, but these are merely your opinions.

Is it difficult to put the car together with the kit? I dont wanna mess anything up and do something wrong if its not easy to put it together.

 

[SMaxxin]

Is it difficult to put the car together with the kit? I dont wanna mess anything up and do something wrong if its not easy to put it together.

If you can follow directions it's not hard at all. In the end it's great to see something you built work and perform as good are better than a factory assembled kit. And when something goes wrong you will most likely know what is causing the problem because you will know every part on it. Just don't expect to put it together in a couple of hours, depending on the kit expect it to take 7-8 hours give or take. Once you get the hang of it working on it is half the fun.

the heat cycle?

can u please inform me in that one. What do u do?

If you are still idling at least a tank through during break-in, you're using the old-school accepted method (still works well for some!) but it's not the method that the top engine guys (Ron Paris, Dennis Richey, Rody Roem, Michael Salven are just a few I've spoken personally with about this) recommend anymore.
From the very 1st time you start your engine, plop the car on the ground & begin running it in a parking lot in 2-3 minute intervals, tuned only *slightly rich* getting the temps up in the 200F range on a normal day. Every 2-3 minutes, shut the engine down & let it cool completely with the piston at BDC, and then fire it back up; continue this cycle until you've run 15 min or so, and then bump up to 3-4 minute intervals. Vary the RPM and don't be afraid to get the temps in the 200's. What you want is heat cycling of the components without the incredible stress that comes with breaking an engine in when it's overly rich & cold. After cycling the engine in this mannerfor about 20-25 total minutes, it'll be ready for the track and race tuning. I realize this method goes against the old-school "idle on the box" routine, but you'll be amazed once you've completed this break-in routine, your OS will still have amazing pinch w/out sticking at the top AND your OS's compression will last far longer than it will with the "old school" method.
You say you run the engine at "factory settings" for the first FIVE tanks? That alone causes lots of stress, as the factory OS settings are very rich on every OS I've ever owned or tuned. The piston & sleeve haven't expanded to operating temps, and every time the engine turns over, the piston slams into the pinch zone at TDC. The not-so-surprising result can be a cracked con-rod at the crank pin--that's where the majority of the stresses occur as the engine turns over. I've only heard of about 6-8 OS engines breaking con-rods, and they're ALWAYS during the first gallon...and almost every time it's because the guys have performed the break-in procedure you described. Doesn't seem like a mystery as to why it's happening. Drawing out the break-in routine really stresses the engine & actually wears away compression along the way. This method I've outlined will feel weird at every step, but after you try it once, you'll notice a big difference in your engine's performance & lifespan.

 

[Rush Evo man]

it sounds to technical.

I'm just a beginner. to hard for me.

I'm going to stick with the old school version on all my cars.