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Gearing up the spider mod

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Diver6127

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Ok, I am getting ready to purchase my SS within a month and I really want to do the spider mod while doing the build since everything is still disassembled. I have a few questions.

1. Is it recomended that I do the front as well as the rear?
2. How important is the mod since I'll be doing a lot of asphalt runs mixed in with dirt/offroad?
3. Can an aggeresive tread make adverse effects on dependablilty, especially when changing surfaces or should I get a mild A/T type of tread?
4. Is there a noticable increase or decrease in performance? or is it strictly a durability issue.

Thanks in advance guys. Now I just gotta figure out a way to explain why I have one the same time my brother has one. She's gonna know regardless, just wanna cushion my eardrums a little bit or at the very least ... get some good bashing times in before the *poop* hits the fan.
 
1. Yes - do both
2. No matter what you run on, it is important
3. If you plan on doing a 50/50 split of driving on road and off, then get a middle of the pack tread. If you do more off-road, then go with beefier tread. Just keep in mind, almost all offroad tread will wear fast on road.
4. Durrability Issue

I'm about to do this mod the same.
 
Diver...

You might want to decide whether you want to put diff lock oil or grease in those diffs.

There's lots of opinions on what weight to use. The heavier the weight the more it tends toward a true locking situation. And of course, this will effect your offroad vs onroad performance.

I think most recommend 3k in rear and 5k in front. I just did 3k in the rear, and so far so good, but it's too early to make any recommendations.
 
Thanks guys, I will deffinitely do the mod. Just wanted to make sure it was worth the effort, based on the type of surfaces I'll be driving on.
 
When I did mine, It was recommended I put 1k in the rear diff, and 3k in the front diff. I think mine handles very well.

Diver, this mod is a must, I completely destroyed my rear diff on only the tenth tank, with the stock motor, then I had to pull damn near the entire truck back apart to do it. I have only run my SS twice since doing the mod, but so far so good.
 
ok - one in the rear and three in the front.

Sounds good. Ill go that route, I have both weights already.

Thanks for the info.
 
No problem. It has worked well for me, but I have nothing else to really guage it on, I only got to run the stock set up briefly. Now I am getting ready to do the Monster Pirate servo saver mod.
 
LOL, I think it's all a matter of opinion as to what diff fluid to run. I am running 5k in both and it works great. Very responsive and recommended mod. I think I need to rethink the MP servo saver mod.
 
Well, I'm an extremeist and went with 50K front 30K rear. Yes 50/30K, as in 50,000/30,000 Ofna silicone. I run mostly on track dirt, but the heavier weight for me makes rock crawling easier. Doen't seem to hurt too much on the track either. Just my opinion, take it as ya will. Though if I had it to do over, I'd go 30K/50K F/R.
 
Freaking Hobbit. Changes his story like he wind.

I just completed the mod with 60K in both. Lubed the external diff with some 300K. Intend to run it this weekend if the wife gets well enough...will let all know my opinions when they have had a chance to be formulated. So far the drive train feels a little more solid for the mod.
 
Noop here is a link to the spider mod. Should explain everything you need and as to why we have done this mod as well.

LOL forgot to put it in. 4 spider diff mod
 
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Worked for me. BTW, thanks NNF. Saved me the time of looking for the step by step stuff.
 
In addition to the 4 spider mod, other inexpensive upgrades you can do during the build is to put in the HPI 3 show clutch and the HPI dual disk brake kit. The brake kit eliminates the use of the hub that the stock brake uses. You should also get the upgraded S25 fuel tank. I also highly recommend that you switch out all the stock screws with a quality hex head kit. You won't be sorry that you did.
 
I already considered the 3 shoe clutch and a primerless tank from the 25. Thanks for the reminder as far as the brakes are concerned.

Are the stock screws really that bad? I remember the hard time I had with the screw on my NTC3 build. Kept rounding off the heads. I was just going to tap the plastic to keep from rounding. I'll consider the screw set.
 
Diver I don't know if Rob did it by choice or he had an expereince that made him want to do so, however I have had only very minimal problems with the stock screws. I am converting slowly over to hex head anyways. I would just advise to make you get a quality hex screw kit if you do it. You can always go to your local hardward store and get them takes a little longer since you have to count up as many as you need. Newayz cheeper than getting them from LHS.
 
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