Gear mesh question

[Domination]

well i stripped out my plastic stock spur so i went to the LHS and got a hardened steel RRP one for 30 bux put it on and seems to work fine no signs of slipage or any thing but how freely should the spur spin oh and this one has a bearing in it instead of a bushing but this one spins perfectly with very little firction so is this good/loose cause i dont feel like f*ckin up a $30 spur but it seems to be working fine

 

[HumboldtBlazer]

So is this a RRP slipper set for a Tmaxx? because if it is you may be talking about the slipper adjustment when talking how freely it spins. Gear mesh always works great for me when I out a thick plastic bag, like the one you RRP gear came in and feed it between the clutchbell gear and slipper gear. Then I screw down may engine, take the bag out and viola perfect mesh everytime. Read this article it's a good one that I learned a lot from.

http://www.rcnitro.com/rn/articles/ht_7step.asp

 

[Domination]

no its still the t-maxx slippers system and pad things but i just went out and put a tank through it and it seems fine

 

[HumboldtBlazer]

Hardened metal gears will run for awhile longer with an improper mesh than a plastic one will, but it will cause more damage. Be careful you have a good mesh and have fun with it!

 

[SkyMaxx]

Steel gears, especially full on steel gears like the one you describe, require the use of all twelve slipper pegs...so make certain you have twelve vice the stock six. Why? More rotational mass. This tends to burn up the six as the slipper engages.

Next, the heavier gear will spin up slightly more slowly and will remain spinning much longer after you remove your throttle input. Why? Again, the more rotational mass...generates more inertia and tends to stay in motion because of that. Is that a bad thing? Not really...means you don't have to lean on the gas all the time, and that it takes less time to get up to speed when you pulse the engine.

Finally, the mesh issue...all I will tell you is that the sacrificial parts on most of these trucks are the spur gear and their slipper clutch assembly. That gizmo is designed to reduce the shock to the tranny and the rest of the drive train when the engine hits it at full rpms. When you go metal with the spur gear, that sacrificial part now moves internal to the tranny (which contains mostly plastic gears). What does this mean? It means you need to nail the mesh and keep it right. The method I use is posted below:

"From another SkyMaxx post"

Setting gear mesh is very important to the longevity of both gears and the components driving and being driven by the gears.

Here's how to do the mesh check.
1. Loosen the screws that hold the motor mounts to the chassis plate (don't take them all the way out).

2. Make sure you have both spur gear and clutch gear on properly (since you've mounted the spur and the clutch is attached to the motor, you probably have little to worry about here).

3. Take the plastic bag that the spur gear came in (a ziploc bag will work just as well) and place one thickness of the plastic between the two gears.

4. Push the motor back into place so that the two gear compress on the plastic.

5. Tighten the motor mount screws (making sure that the motor mounts are as square to the chassis as possible...you want the gears to have as even a surface to surface contact as possible).

6. Pull the bag out. The gears should rotate freely and mesh together just right.

Hope this helps...

Between runs I always make certain that the engine mounts are snug, and I use loctite on the screws that hold the mounts in place. If the engine vibrates itself loose and pulls out of mesh...the damage is not pretty, and usually costly.