FUn in the MUD.

[FSTFBDY]

Well I desided to take the Maxx out into the mud 2day. All the snow is melted and it was 51* out 2day.

I'm verry disapointed. I retuned for the 51* weather and she was running great.(last run was in 20* weather) anyways

On the flats and weeded area it flat out flies. but man soon as I hit some mud or muddy ruts It bugs really bad and slows down big time. tryin to even walk it through some muddy ruts slow it gets hung up. not hi centerted but bogs and stops. WOT is just Bahhhhh and no go.

Would this be a slipper problem or a bell cluth problem.

Its a Sirrio .18 so I know he has the power to kick some mud ass.

It is the stock bell clutch. Whats a Good setup to run that I dont have to worry about this problem.

Thanks In Advance... :thumbup:

 

[FSTFBDY]

nobody??

 

[30%NitroBoy]

Hey man,

Sorry but I didn't c this......What's your current gearing with that sweet Sirio .18...are you running the Siro Big bore pipe?? Are you running the stock tires that are well designed but to small in diameter for what your doing??

EDIT....you said STock Clutch bell...sorry. So that's a 20 or 19 (can't remember off hand). THe stock T-maxx is geared for mostly TOp end with the 72 Tooth Spur Gear and 19/20 tooth clutch bell. Adding a 16 tooth clutch bell will give you ALLOT more low end which is what you really need for mud bogging. With the 72 spure but you might break ALL or some of your plastic drivelines. If you wanna run lots of low end torque ya gotta get some CVDS.

I'm assuming that you;ve properly waterproofed your electronics too?

 

[FSTFBDY]

Ya stock, tires now. I sold the big joes. I didnt like the low profile of em. belive it or not.

Deff need CVD's I teep twisting stock shafts even with em moded. not hollow anymore.

I'll have to count the gears. but I belive they are stock. metal slipper not plastic anymore. Right now I'm still running the stock 2.5 pipe buy just picked up a sirio .18 pipe.

stock shocks with 70 wt. New shocks are a next thing to buy.
I have RPM arms, front shock tower/body mount.
a FOC I need to put in.
Pic's are in my gallery.

 

[GilBeQuick]

When you say it's just "Bahhhhh and no go" does that mean it's bahhhhh and no whellspin, or are the wheels spinning?

 

[30%NitroBoy]

Sup Fst....

In hindsigth now I almost feel like a dumbass for even mentioning that the stock plastic sliders might be acceptable for many. I know pro level Maxx racers that are having good sucess with the stock drivlines but now I know why. Most of these guys trucks are geared for pure topend of mid-top with not allot of emphassis on low end torque. I'm all about having the ability to switch my gearing for whatever purpose and the stock stuff can't handle even a 16 tooth clutchbell with the 2.5 much less a beatly SIrio .18. The reason my racers buddies aren't tweaking their stock drivlines is because they're not putting allot of torque on the bitches...lol.

FYI.....THe "SHINY" MIP cvd's aren't much heaver then the regular black ones. THey look pimp as hell and the finish is ALLOT less prone to rust from what I here. Just picked em up today.

As for the Sirio .18...just picked that up today too..lol. I'm already running the Sirio Piston Rod and Sleeve in my 2.5 now. It added more power through the entire band but I wanted some more. I had the Sirio .18 on my Traxxas 4-Tec that's now sold and it was all top end. I'm very curious to c how much low-end the Sirio .18 can add to my maxx. I know it screams @ mid and top end but low is what I'm really interested in. I'll probably have to do a Big Bore eventually....we'll c.

EDIT....On another note. GO to Trinity's website and read all the tech pefromance tips for the Siro .18 with the Sirio pipe. I think they reco cutting a little bit off the header for maxx performance when used with the Sirio pipe.

Peace

 

[FSTFBDY]

Originally posted by GilBeQuick
When you say it's just "Bahhhhh and no go" does that mean it's bahhhhh and no whellspin, or are the wheels spinning?

Bahhhhh, and No tire spin. This is what got me to think its gona be a cluth or slipper problem. It just BOGS

Then again if it was a cluth or slipper problem woulnt it rev to the moon??



30%,
I already cut my header back and ceramic coated it. I may pull my sirio apart and thermal coat the piston also. Belive it or not Right now I'm tryin to finish up a quart of 10% nitro.lol. so the sirio isnt even running at 100% I hate to see any nitro goto waste..


Eventually I plan to get a diff cluth and a 1/8th scale buggy slipper setup,Some Piggy Back shocks, and CVD's

 

[SkyMaxx]

If you have the stock tires on the T, and are having this problem then you may be facing multiple things. 30% mentioned the axles and gearing....and you mentioned the spur and clutch.

You are both right on all counts. The Sirio .18 is a high end racing engine (or it is considered by many to be one). It has a high rpm output at WOT. Couple that with stock gearing (which is bred for speed), a weak clutch and weak ass plastic slider axles...and you have a great recipe for no motion in the mud.

I put CVDs on my out axles and ran sliders on my center lines in order to have a sacrificial piece. Most of my drive train is metal (spur, hardened clutch, tranny...etc).

The end result of the muddy maxx pictures in my gallery was two blown center drive axles. Twisted them right off. Both front and rear.

I would suggest giving your center line axles a look see. They are probably twisted to a certain extent. I would give your spur gear and slipper assemble a look see for any kind of melting. Especially if you are running the stock slipper and the plastic spur. Finally, I would inspect the clutch shoes for glazing or other signs of melting.

The most likely problem here was your truck hit the mud, tires got mired, you jammed on the gas some...over torqued the center drive axles, then the spur, and finally starting spinning the clutch shoes around inside the clutch bell.

How do you win? Get a clutch bell with fewer teeth and a spur gear with more teeth. This lowers the top speed but gives you more torque. You can tighten up the spur gear all the way...only when you know that the only thing you intend to run in is mud. Sand up the clutch shoes' contact surface a little to break up the surface and create more friction. Clean up the clutch bell internal surface and give it a little sand paper treatment, also.

This will give the clutch more grab. Lock down the spur gear to prevent slippage. The end result will be more power through the tranny without slippage. The end result will either be over torqued centerline drives -or- a truck that starts moving in the mud.

BOTTOM LINE: Can't really do any quality mudding without setting up for it. CVDs and lower gearing is a must.

 

[30%NitroBoy]

Hey SKymaxx -

Grat input as always brotha. THe center MIP CVD kit runs around $59 so if he's not tweaking the front and rear drives he could do that for now if he doesn't have allot of money to spend. I was kinda bumbed that MIP doesn't offer the entire set of CVD's in a somehwhat discounted pack...oh well.. That torque is coming right out of the tranny and those center drives seem to be the first to go. I'll be running the Robinson Slipper kit eventually so I can run a 74 tooth spur or higher for Maxximum low end torque for crawling or whatever. That combo with Big Joes or should make RockCrawling allot more fun.

FST - So you already did the header right...nice.

Peace

 

[SkyMaxx]

When I went to all metal gearing, I decided to make the center drives my sacrificial members. Yes, I occasionally overtorque them, but at like ten bucks for a bag of twenty...I'm happier than spending $60 on a MIP CVD kit, even happier to not have to spend more on Tranny, Spur, Clutch bell, and engine replacements.

Mine was a thought out decision. When you go metal and things break, they do so in ugly and costly ways.

 

[FSTFBDY]

great advice. Thanks. CVD's in in the next few plans.
I have a metal slipper gear so I know is not maged. maybe the slipper pegs are burnt down.

or this might have happened again.

Last set was worsge then this.. so as said CVD's are a must. just gota get to the LHS but its 45min away.