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Fuel Line

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C

ch3no2junkie

RCTalk Basher
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Valdosta, GA
RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
  2. Racing
does anyone know why the 5309 Revos have 18" fuel lines. I don't see the point in this with the tank being mounted 4" from the motor.
 
It is rather pointless. You don't need all that excess line. Just ensure that, when routing your fuel line, that you stay away from the exhaust and the sides of the engine. Also the obvious such as routing it thru the arms!
 
The reasoning behind all the extra line is to keep the engine running for a little while in the event of a roll over so you have time to flip it back over. Also if you are racing the rig that extra line could give you just that little bit if extra fuel to finish the race. i think my fuel line is like 4.5 inches long, straight from the tank right to the carb, no loops or anything
 
i used the extra length to glue it to the side of the tank ..so i dont have to lift the body to kill the engine

heres a pic ;)...i used silicone and ''no more nails '' glue ..seems to be holding fine
 
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i took the pincher off of mine, i don't shut mine down that way, i either plug up the stinger or i put my thumb over the air intake
 
Oh i agree 100% on the to each their own thing, but i don't like to use the pincher because it overly leans out the engine before it dies, and i personally don't like that, i don't know why but it doesn't sit well with me thats why i plug the stinger or plug the air intake.
 
I take the body off then I pinch the line. Then I unhook it from the carb (unless everything is dirtier than usual)....and hook that end to the tank. After that I pull 'er a few times to burn off the excess. All that stays behind is a nice oily residue that can sit for up to a week. If it's more than a week I either after-run 'em or fire 'em up for a few minutes. This works well for me because even though there is still some nitro-methane in the crankcase I know it has been burned out of the cylinder and won't attract moisture. They always start right back up for me even when it's about 30 or 40 in my back room.

As for it hurting the engine....I don't believe it. I've pulled and pulled and pulled on cold engines before. much more than it could run for a couple seconds, and no sign of damage.
 
this is a somewhat contentious and ongoing argument. Each school of thought states that each method to stop a nitro engine has it's merits with the method used by a particular individual being good whilst denouncing the "other" methods being used by other individuals as poor or no good.

Personally, I either use the fuel line pinch or stinger plug method, even though i prefer the fuel line pinch option.

Then of course the is the "stop the flywheel with a stick of wood or shoe" method. ood in an emergency situation, but it does stress the conrod by stopping it dead whilst it has rotational forces fromn the crank working on the bottom end.


How does a 1:1 car switch off ? by cutting the electrics, which means cutting the fuel pump off and stopping the fuel supply, whilst also stopping the spark to the spark plugs.

Point being, to starve the engine of fuel to stop it will not neccesarily hurt it as much as flooding it can, as much as stopping the flywheel can and as much as putting your finger or thumb over the carb to starve the engine of oxygen that at the same time could introduce harmful grains of dirt into the engine.

as I said, a contentious and ongoing argument.

In short, everyone has their preferred method, but sometimes it just best not to talk about it for fear of being told out right that you are wrong or stupid for using that method as has been the case in the past.
 
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